siteunseen

Couldn't think of the word, "cribbing". Thanks Mark! Holds houses up before and after relocating them.

Take the shift rod out and look for the tell all signs of nicks above the snout. Mine did it, drove me crazy. Did a little grinding and now all is fine. Dave WM had the same issue.

It comes with a tool kit.

Houdini's levitating lady trick. Pass a hula hoop around It. Maybe he won't saw it half.

You're exactly right! I really like mine too. Good stopping and never heard a sound from them. Maybe all the newer pads figured it out now but when I was in high school in the '80s I was constantly embarrassed by my 280 squealing. It was horrible. 4 Pioneer TS6907s with a Nakamechi Dragon head and Sony 400 watt amp fixed it.

I think I would go with more blocks, those maxed out jacks are kind of scary in my opinion. I'm a bit heavy handed though.

Sorry about that. They have it as a "Tech Article" and apparently the additional comments aren't needed. Captain Obvious saves the day.

$200 for all the rubber and clips from zcardepot looks good to me. 3D printed rubber though, how long would that last? That car is going to be showroom piece, park it in the living room or Man Cave.

You might find something in these 5 pages? Good luck...

Eww, that sucks. Never seen that before. I wonder if a clay bar would get it off? Good luck.

Yes it would be ZX motor, pretty much but the reason they did the flat tops on the zx was to make up for the power to weight ratio. Zxs are a good bit heavier, they have power steering power windows and heavier safer bumpers. Knowing now what I've learned on this forum I would definitely go with a zx motor in my light Z. The p79 has better fuel quench and like Madkaw says lowers the risk of pre detonation I think they call it or "pinging". That will eat up your pistons. I've been told my n42 block with flat tops and my n42 head would be a good motor/head combo. I have the flat tops and eventually will swap them in place of the dished I'm currently running but it runs so good now, not a performance motor just good running dependable motor I cant make myself tear it back apart for a little more power. The police keep me from building a hot rod. Good luck and don't worry about asking, we have plenty of opinions for all the choices you're up against. 8^) Cliff

I agree, Zed Head is trying to help not hinder. Takes the same amount of time & typing.

Yeah, who needs a watch when you have Z! When you turn the lights on it's night time. Up until then who cares.

Guy's trifecta.

It's an M3 block. @grannyknot could make a nicer one than this company.

Would the N47 work as well with flat topped pistons compared to a P79? I wasn't really recommending an N42 just stating it was the first one with the bigger valves. Sorry for any confusion.

I saw this in Robb Report waiting to see my doctor. It's a BMW block but just about the same as ours. Coolest watch winder I've ever seen.

Good stuff here if you haven't already read it. datsunzgarage.com, http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ P79 head, http://datsunzgarage.com/p79/ Cylinder heads in general, http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ Engine calculator, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine builder/index.html

If you could find a zx motor from a junkyard and use the flat top pistons and the p79 head you would be better off in my opinion. The n47 is the least desire able head there is. Google datsun z motor calculator and try different components. The n42 head would be able the first one with bigger valves already then the n47, then the better p79. Google " diseazed motor build classiczcars.com" or go to datsungarage.com and find the motor sub category and then the cylinder head mod. I can post those links in the morning as I have them bookmarked on my laptop.

I don't get the joke but Jonestown's Kool Aid party was in 1978. Very scary to a kid like me back then. I lived on that stuff, i thought it was a batch of bad Kool Aid.

I think you'll be quite happy with ztherapy's dual SUs. There's a Guy, , on here with a stable of high performance motors in his Zs all with SUs and says they provide fuel very well. I have a slightly modified 2.4 and also run SUs, it pulls good to MY limit of 6,000 RPM. I haven't gone over that on purpose but I may have hit 6,500? That's a strange looking gearbox to me but I've not seen them all, apparently. Keep us up with your progress. Love the pictures!

Seems odd to me they call them "shims". Backing plate maybe? Here is something I found on the www. "They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI™) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component." They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI™) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component. They feature Integrally Molded Sound Insulator (IMI™) that integrates the friction material, backing plate and insulator into a single high strength component.

I looked in my file and they are Wagner ceramics from amazon.con. $25

When I'm wrong it's way wrong, nobody can say I'm a half arse. My mower has a vacuum fuel pump! That's why I have to use the choke every time. I never thought of that since the first one I bought in '06. Stupid stupid stupid. I'm out of here, it's past my bedtime.

I have a commercial mower that needs choke every time I start it. If I raise up too high off the seat and the kill switch shuts it down while it's hot as can be it still has to choked. I don't understand why, I just know that's what it takes to start it. Maybe the mechanical fuel pump needs the extra pull? My 240 will crank without choke though but it lives in a garage that never too cold. I use the choke regardless just to get the oil pressure up faster. When the oil pressure gets 3/4 gauge I push the choke off. By the time I get the PITA seatbelt fastened it's good to go. Maybe Jalex's hot rod motor needs the extra fuel? Way more questions than answers in this thread.