siteunseen

I can mock up one up in the morning but I've tried finding a picture when you first posted, with no luck. I'm not a good process photographer, I get excited and all I see is the finish line.

I used those Ford ones, they're a little fat but work good.

Could this be it? Part of the threaded rod. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/accelerator-choke-throttle

Go down just past half way on this page. Looks like your's is for '75-'78, just the boot is for '70-'74. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php

Here's an old list I have saved. You'll probably want to google the numbers to make sure they are compatible with the 240Z, some are for the 2000 Roadster. I got lucky and found a complete set of SUs on craigslist I rob parts from occasionally. Part Name Part Number Price (each) Available? Gasket Kit (2) 16455-H2310 $3.30 YES N-17 Jet Needle (2) 16354-25611 $8.81 YES Inlet Screen/Filter (2) 16098-73401 $.65 YES Fuel Pipe (2) 16356-25610 $13.68 YES Banjo Bolt (2) 16108-18010 $1.69 YES Float (2) 16061-E4310 $11.90 YES Nozzle, Front 16355-25610 $19.11 YES Nozzle, Rear 16355-25611 $17.99 NLA Float Valve (2) 16101-25610 $10.06 NLA Float Spring/Lifter (2) 16325-10400 $1.38 YES Suction Spring (2) 16346-25610 $2.54 NLA Screws, for Domes and Float-chambers (16) 16129-73013 $.24 NLA Washers, for Domes and Float-chambers (16) 23502-30000 $.33 NLA

@HaZmatt

That guy from Texas did a wrap on a 280. Can't remember now??? it was clear though to protect the paint.

Save money but pray you don't hit a big bug.

MSA has the $600 one I read someone had bought. There's cheaper ones for sure but thinner I think. I bought a cheap one for my Nissan pick-up and it was thinner glass. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-3051

I recall $600? The chrome trim around the windshield is the unicorn.

There he is!!! I suffer from many mental conditions but CRS is #1.

He lives in north Carolina. He stays with with co workers in Memphis in a trap house. Sorry Ferg but I think highly of pilots and have a half arse good memory. If I hadn't cut my foot off at 16, almost, I would've been in the military and gone for the jockey seat. But things happen and here I am wishing I was able to talk to the controllers. I'd look forward to meeting you at ZCON this fall if you can make it.

Here it is.

Look for a recall fix sticker on the passenger's side of your hood, close to the vent. Nissan had one for that coupler connection for the '77. They added a clip to secure it but apparently it wasn't enough for my car.

I deleted my stuff because the tube coupler from the exhaust to the intakes underside tunnel had gotten loose long ago and rotted a hole in the aluminum creating a huge vacuum leak. Plus as Dave says above just to lessen potential failure points. We have no smog test here and it gave me a lot cleaner looking topside. I'm not a bells and whistles type, simple is my preference. Plus my thermal vacuum switch was broken just like yours and I wasn't able to figure out a way around that so I started "the rippin' and the tearin'"

Have you tried cleaning where the ground wire from the battery to the bolt on the starter, it goes to the top bolt I think. You could sandpaper the area on the bell housing.

I think I would plug these two hoses. I removed all that stuff and put an N42 intake manifold on mine. In the end I just had to plug the one at the throttle plate, lower left in the photo. If I remember right it sits on top of the heating plate that connects to the thermostat housing and connects to BPT valve, whatever that is/was.

could you mark where the lock nut is now then back it off to give you some more play with the rod? I've used these I stole from my doctors office. Needle nose vise-grips would work too, or regular needle nose pliers with a rubber band around the handles. Good luck!

yep MT90 for the transmission and 75W90 for the differential.

JSM is member Jeff in post #7. It could be like my '77. It has an N42 block, '75 thru '78 have them, and a replacement N42 cylinder head from a '75. The vented hood and the rear trim piece ZedHead mentioned are common markings for '77 and '78s. The door tag is a definite way to tell. They changed years in September so a 09/'76 would be a '77. That's what mine is.

Fastwoman used goodyear ez coils? Never seen those but you might google them and see. Good luck.

Here's where I got the idea. Instead of sweating copper fittings I used two 90 degree pex fittings with a small section of hose in between to make a 180 turn around. Used regular hose clamps, pex crimp rings won't work on rubber hose. Here's an informative thread with some good solutions, part numbers and many photos. You'll have to copy and paste. It didnt work as a hyper link. Edit #2. It works now. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17542-treating-insideoutside-of-gas-tank-with-por15-products-and-removing-evaporation-tank/

I used 3/4 PEX fittings on my 240's 5/8" 180 bends. 2 90 degree fittings worked good. O'Reilly is the only parts store around me that had that 5/8" fuel hose on hand. I'll try and find a picture when I get my laptop out in the morning.

I like my N42. I would get the N42 non EGR intake manifold that's bolted to it too. Get the the exhaust pipe cut right before the exhaust intake and pull all three off. '75 & '76 have square exhaust ports. Your '77 has round and the '75s N42 head is square. $200 N42 intake right here, https://us.letgo.com/en/i/nissan-datsun-240z-280z-280zx-n42-intake-turbo-na_f3360cb9-a7ba-4c5c-a6f4-affeddcdcd24

Yeah I guess it does look more like copper. And as for being concerned, I wouldn't want it running through my motor.