Stanley

Aren't you glad you don't have power steering? BTW, looked like you were going fast enough. Nice Canyon.

Thank you, guess I'll try the Nissan Parts from Courtesy. Might get some of this stuff to wrap it,WireCare.com :: Your Cable Management SuperStore! Hope it looks ok. Going for a black cloth braded theme. Like the black Mishimoto set but at this time need to spend only on stuff that makes it run or stop better. Can't rationalize $210 for radiator hoses. I noticed the MSA set was $10.13 for the upper and $12.77 for the lower, in my 2006 catalog. Almost double now.

Going to swap out my 240z water inlet for a new one, so it's a good time to put some new hoses - the lower one, maybe a NAPA or Autozone, don't remember, fairly new but it's bulging a little. Any find some they like? The nice repro braided ones are out due to cost, also the Mishimoto silicon (they look good though). Don't mind paying 25 instead of 12 if it's better. Here's what I found: MSA upper 16-7201 for $18.87, lower 16-7202, $22.63. Black Dragon upper 54-500 for $21.95, lower 54-505, 11.95 Gates VulcoFlexII 13x1.25 for $24.96(says it replicates angles of OE but it's flex?) Dayco upper $17.63 Goodyear upper $11.95 AC Delco upper (looks flex?) $18.49 Also checked the braided sleeving at wirecare.com (they have a bunch). Flex is ok for me if it works - I like Gates green strip but they don't have 1.25 I.D. Stainless braid ok but I don't want the end covers - gotta see if it's leaking.

Get that error message sometimes when I hit the Home or What's New link on my browser, but found a forum topic on google and got on that way no problem. Worked for me several times.

If my car was ok and I took it in for an inspection, and it died afterwards, I'd never go back. It could be a coincidence but why take a chance.

Also the initial turns down on the nozzles depends on temperature and altitude per the graph in the FSM. Using an IR thermometer helped me get the about the same A/F on each cylinder, but you need to take a lot of readings and average them - that doesn't take too long though. Reading the plugs gives a ballpark A/F. In my planes (in the game FSX) you set A/F using the EGT gauge. Problem with the colortunes (want to get one, though) is you can't read it under load at WOT. Maybe all you really need is 6 into 2 headers with a wideband for each secondary pipe, and an EGT on each primary close to the exhaust port. Would that be too many gauges? Colortune, IR, and reading the plugs, and butt dyno is way cheaper though. Oh yeah, and a stopwatch or dragstrip.

Yeah, I put a $25 5x7 IIRC from pep boys in there couple years ago, made the crummy radio sound better and a little louder, there was space for a similar speaker on the other side. Don't know about a 6x9 though. It's a hassle getting the left side panel back on because of the hatch bracket so I'm not going to look. Seems like maybe room for tweeters higher up and forward where there are some more holes in the panels, very tight though.

Mine's leaking too, on the other side (only, I hope). Fairly sure it's corrosion on the big hose barb that takes the lower radiator hose. Saw how bad it was when I changed radiator hoses -should have installed a new inlet at that time. Figured it would be too much of a chore to get the old corroded inlet out of there. Never do that. Guess it only leaks when it's hot. My engine usually runs on the cool side, except stop and go on the freeway on a hot day - when you can't pull over and check it. Felt a little moisture there though. Wonder what's the best radiator hose without going silicon? Those braided OEM imitations are expensive and look a little thin.

Auto parts stores sell a package of two rubber covers, a red and a black one, that fit over the post connectors on the battery wires, about 2 or 3 dollars.

78sid, that setup looks fine to me. Closing the valve completely should stop hot coolant from going through the heater core and heating up the car in the summer which is what you want. Seems like an improvement to stock system. Also you could close it a little as a restrictor to protect the heater core from too much water pressure. Don't know if this is ever an issue for Datsun but I've read a lot about it on other forums (Late model Mustangs), where they bust a lot of heater cores. Looks like your line from the thermostat housing through the intake manifold was removed, if it's a 240 or 260. Wade, could you post a photo of your setup?

I noticed 79 mph at 3700 rpm in the morning, 84 mph at 3700 rpm in the afternoon, seems to be consistent. It's an AT, maybe that makes a difference. Don't understand it at all. Maybe tire pressure?

Don't know what year your car is but my 73 has one, on one of the smaller wires close to the starter.

The Nissan parts man in Tucson had the 160's but talked me into a 180 thermostat. My engine seems to make more power when it's well warmed up. Always check my revs vs. mph on the freeway, it consistently goes faster at 3700 on a warm afternoon than in the cool morning. A 160 might run too cold in the winter.

after I noticed the hose to the vacuum advance was broken and hanging by a thread. Snapped it off and stuck it back on.

What paint stripper did you use? It worked great. I'm just hoping to get anything done in the next 5 months.

Thanks, I see MSA has them (the 1 tuff z reproductions, I guess) for about $290. Out of my league. But I'll check Home Depot - if I can get the right mesh I know an old machinist in Watts that can cut and bend it.

Some 20 wt. Three-in-one oil would be better than gas in the damper. Gas is just the wrong viscosity - probably won't hurt anything. Are those big wires from the battery attached to the bolts on the right side shock tower ? Not much of an electrician but don't remember seeing that before. Guess it's OK if it works, just wondering why. FSM - factory service manual.

My 240Z grill is kind of beat up, beyond my skills to straighten - I tried. Would like to make a mesh grill like the Fairlady JDM or Z432's. Doesn't have to be perfect - not a show car - just nice looking and functional. Should look fairly close to the stock mesh. Want it to fit closer to the lower valence than stock so rocks can't go under and hit the radiator. Don't need the metal border like the stock ones, as long as the edge of the mesh isn't (easily) visible. I'll probably use parts of my old grill as a base for mounting it. I'd rather have aluminum than steel to save weight. Saw a plastic one at a car show that looked OK, at least for now, but I don't know. It needs to have plenty of open area in the mesh. Would paint it black or gray like the stock ones. Have looked online, checked McMaster Carr an other sites, looked at various cars and trucks to see if something could be scrounged that would work. Don't want to buy a 4x8 sheet of anything. Everything looks wrong or too expensive. Kind of broke this month. Any links?

Been following this thread for a year. Looks like you're on your way to a career in design or engineering. Once the Z is complete that's just the beginning. Then you could try some other stuff, various classic rims, stance and paint combinations, engine mods and swaps, racing models, etc. How about a drag car with wheelie bars and an L-series engine with a belt-driven blower? Or a rally car with roll cage, mud flaps, bull bars, a turbo, and mud spatters? Don't know much about CAM but I'm guessing it's how model cars are made.

OK, learned something. Liquid filled gauge is supposed to have a pinhole in the rubber vent nipple, otherwise the pressure goes up when it's cold, and down when it warms up. The vent needs to be up so the glycerine doesn't leak out. Maybe I'll install a union at the gauge before venting it, so if I want to remove the gauge from the line I can do it without rotating it and losing some liquid. Guess the pump is OK. I Like being able to see the FP while driving. Thanks to McMaster-Carr for getting my BSPT adapter and chrome brass tee to fit on the mechanical pump to me within two days. And thanks Mr. Hose for putting the 3050 psi pro-looking hose together with all the necessary dash-4 and NPT fittings while I waited, made it all easy. McDaniel gauge is 0-10 psi, case and glass safe to 300 psi, about $55 plus shipping. Under $100 for everything and nothing Mickey Mouse.

Tried it again today, only went to about 3.0 psi, shut it off and watched the gauge FP drop and rise like yesterday. Noticed the hose from the tee on the pump went up few inches vertically before going down to the grommet on the firewall. Figure gas was draining out and back to the tank went it's shut down, so I moved it so the whole line descends to the gauge. Took another drive, max FP was about 3.3 psi. When I floor it for 5 sec or so the FP drops to about 2.8, tried it 3 or 4 times with the same result. The rise in FP after turning it off seems to be gone. FSM says 3.4 to 4.4 psi is correct - maybe I'll should try a new fuel pump when I get paid.

Instrument panel looks sort of like a Z car's.

Sounds reasonable , but in this case the engine wasn't even warmed up. No return line, but the gas (pressure) has to go somewhere. I guess it goes backward through the fuel pump, filter, and back down the fuel line to the tank to level with the fuel in the tank. Also, I removed the electric fuel pump by the tank a while back. Wish I had clear fuel lines to see where it was going but the tech inspectors at the strip wouldn't be thrilled with that. That's why ultralight aircraft have clear fuel lines and change fuel pumps every year- so they see that the gas is running. I do have a clear filter before the pump that usually runs about half full - I've seen it fill up after shutting down the engine. Maybe it's a hiccup or burp due to siphoning or something? Pressure from air in the tank, or maybe because I didn't get all the air out of the line to the gauge? At least it's doing something interesting besides just sitting at 3.8 psi. Maybe it will save me from buying unnecessary fuel pumps. Guess there are some gaps in my understanding of the fuel system.

Pep Boys has them too.

Hooked up my new FP gauge today, like the gauge it's a 0-10 psi McDaniels, easy to see under glove box from driver seat. Line is steel braid over Buna-N with black braided Dacron cover good for 3025 psi, all OK. Got steady 3.8 psi at idle which is ok I guess. Bled out the air, think I got most of it. One question though, when I shut down the engine, FP drops fast to 3 psi, then very slowly to 1.5 or 2. After a minute or two, looked at it again - it went back up to about 4 psi again. Whaaat? Then it dropped off again. After 15 minutes it was down to 1 psi. Doesn't seem like much of a problem, but I don't get that strange behavior at all. Any ideas? I got zip.