Walter Moore

The compressor is worth about $0.16/lb as scrap metal, so at about 20 lbs say $3.20 and the condenser and evaporator coils, assuming they are brass are worth about $3.00/lb so say $15.00 each. Other than that, I doubt they are worth much. The early systems leaked like a sieve, and usually had to be recharged once every year or two.

The fuse to the blower motor on a 240Z is not in the fuse box. It is in an in-line fuse holder buried in the wiring harness under the dash. When I bought my car someone had disassembled the dash for unknown reasons, and removed and replaced the fan switch. In messing around putting things back together I discovered the in-line fuse holder, opened it up, and saw that the fuse was blown. I stuck a new fuse in it and voila! The fan she is working!

I am counting the days myself. I have my new weatherstrip installed. (Thanks to all those from the Indy Z car club who helped) But now my stereo has died, and the battery is failing. So I have a schedule to get things replaced. Must be done by July 28...

That is the way that my car acted when the fuel pump was going bad. It would run fine at nearly any speed until you hit about 60MPH, then it was like the car had a governor. (Which basically it did. When the fuel flow reached it's limit the car literally ran out of gas.) It sounded like a driveline vibration, but it turned out to be the engine shaking from the fuel failure.

My personal vote would be to stick with the type A transmission. My car was already hacked up to accept a type B 4 speed, which I later swapped with a 5 speed. I have a bent shifter, but the front edge of the center console still ended up shattered before I got the car. And it is a royal pain to take the transmission out because I have found no way to remove the shifter until AFTER I have it out of the car. Don't even get me started about the high first gear ratio either. Just my opinion...

I don't know how long it will hold up, but when I replaced my rear hatch weather strip last month I just pushed the new seal onto the car body, got it all lined up, and then pulled up the edges and laid a bead of the adhesive under the top side. It seemed like it worked, but it has only been a month.

Due to the over abundance of estrogen in my household I wasn't wondering, but thanks for the information.

Pretty!

Carl, Did you try these people: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/catid/7772 I have never dealt with them, but they seem to have all sorts of hard to find stuff.

Nice to have you around. What are you looking for in a Z car?

Try the things listed in these threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4519&highlight=hood+latch+cable http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36191&highlight=hood+latch+cable http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34026&highlight=hood+latch+cable

Beautiful, I love the styling of those cars. I don't think they were ever sold in the U.S.

My wife and I will be there.

Interesting swap.

I think that I understand items 5, 9, 14, 15, 19, and 20. I am not personally interested in any of them... The rest of them are a mystery to me.

Get a meat thermometer. Put it in the top of the radiator. Start the car and let it idle until it gets full up to temperature. Check the temperature of the actual radiator fluid. You will feel better. Trust me.

Talk about no headroom...

My 71 doesn't have a buzzer, not that I intend to do anything about that... But the key does pull right out of the ignition any any position. Someday I will replace the ignition switch, but I will wait until I can afford to replace or re-key all of the locks at one time. That day is far off at this point.

I am not sure about the 180 degree out issue, but the mounting base for the ZX distributor is different that the one on the early cars. It isn't possible to get the timing right on the ZX dizzy without pulling the oil pump. Now that I say that, I think there is a difference in the alignment of the rotor between the distributors as well... (old age is a pain. What was I talking about again?) In any case you will have to pull the oil pump and put the drive at an angle that makes the new distributor work before the car will run. The ZX dizzy was designed for a different car after all.

Sorry, I am not that familiar with the 260Z. On the 240 the power for the ignition goes through the tach (sort of) and that is how it senses the engine speed. The 260 must be similar. I wonder if a previous owner jumpered around a bad tach to get the ignition to work...

You will not really know for certain until after you get the car running. If you have driven it already and it shifts easy all is OK. On the other hand, I didn't rebuild mine and found that the 2nd gear synchronizer was bad. After driving it for a year I swapped it with a 5 speed from a ZX, and then two years later I pulled the transmission to replace the clutch. (Cursing my lack of foresight for hours has I squirmed under the car to pull the transmission yet again...) I will let you make the call.

1. Is the frame (uni-body) straight and solid? Measure the wheel hubs front to back on each side and diagonally across. If the numbers do not match from left to right or diagonal to diagonal, walk away. 2. Is there obvious significant rust damage to the main frame rails or floor? 3. Is the drivetrain complete and intact? 4. Are the windows all present and in serviceable condition? The Windshield is probably easier to purchase than the side windows. (That is true on most cars.) Obviously some of this depends on the area of the world where you live. Most "restorable" cars in the rust belt wouldn't be considered worthy of parts car status in California, regardless of the brand or nation of origin. But be realistic. If you start with a parts car, at least don't pay a premium for the thing. Oh, and starting with a rusted hulk that needs lots of work is the easiest way to end up sinking thousands of dollars into a failed project.

I think someone should clarify that the Opyland Hotel is the city of Nashville's main convention hotel, but not the hotel that the Z convention is using. The Z convention site is well South of Nashville proper. The flooding is tragic, and our hopes and prayers go with those affected.

17 degrees static timing is only for the "Euro" spec points distributor, part number D606-52. (Which unfortunately is the unit listed in the dreaded Haynes manual...) If you are running the early U.S. spec points distributor (D612-52) the static timing is 5 BTDC. That distributor has 24 degrees of centrifugal advance and setting it to 17 degrees of static timing will cause major spark knock. Most of the electronic first generation distributors were set to 7 or 8 degrees static timing, while the ZX distributors nearly all are set to 10 degrees. Go to Xeons30 and download the real factory service manual for your car: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html That is the real source of information.

One of the Mopar guys at work had an interesting idea for an auxiliary ground the other day. Since most newer batteries have both top post and side post terminals, he used the top post terminals with his Mopar style battery cables and ran a smaller side post cable from the negative of the battery to his frame mounting point. I think that I may do the same thing later this spring because my current battery cables are getting really beat up from being connected and disconnected so many times in the course of various updates. It seems like the smallest side post cable available is about a #4 AWG, and that has to be a better frame ground than the #10 wire I have spliced to the negative cable right now.