Walter Moore

It does have an "80's" feel to it. If you are the lead singer, you must be a lot younger that most of us old farts on this site. Overall I like it. Pretty good for a first music video.

Your car, your choice. I kept them all, but a little mystery might be interesting. The badging helps to keep a period look and feel.

Glad to see that you were just "reading the articles..."LOL

Differential yes, transmission NO!!! GL-5 oils have too much sulfur with will destroy the brass/bronze synchronizers in the transmission. The transmission requires GL-4 gear oil. Redline MT-90 works, and there is a Penzoil product that will work. Look for a reference to "safe for Yellow Metals" in the description on the container.

Wow, what are the odds of that? My fuse box looks exactly like that! Apparently that is usually the first fuse to burn out. It must be a high load circuit. I just replaced the fuse on that circuit with an in-line fuse holder. However after a couple of years the remaining clips were so weak that they stopped holding the fuses tight and they started to heat up as well. I "fixed" it by pulling the battery out, taking out all the fuses, and then using a plastic wire tie around the base of each clip to clamp every fuse in place. (It will be a real pain to replace any of them now...) I know however that what I did is only a temporary measure. Eventually the MSA fuse box upgrade is probably in my future. You might want to bite the bullet and replace the fuse box now...

AdBlock run on Firefox also...

When you get those working it would be fun to have you drop by one of the Indy Z car club events.

I used this one: http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=WLK-24215&dds=1 It was a little long, and could have been smaller in diameter, but it worked.

I have the original E31 head on my engine. When you rebuild an E31 head you basically have to upgrade the intake valves to the larger L28 size because the orignal intake seats are brass and have to be cut out. The hardened steel intake seats that are required for unleaded gas are much easier to replace I am told. I got lucky and accidentally kept the standard, smaller diameter, exhaust valves, thereby preventing the interferrence with the cylinder wall issue that occurs when you go to larger exhaust valves. (I didn't "eyebrow" the cylinder walls because I didn't know that you were supposed to...) For an L24 I doubt that an increase in exhaust valve diameter buys much. Now if you were running an L28 it might help. Anyway, if the head has already been rebuilt, and the engine runs OK I would say keep what you have. Spend your restoration money on the other things that need work.

He would have to retard the timing to run on 89 octane. A stock L28 runs a lower compression ratio than the early L24. Given the symptoms, it sounds like it may be leaning out when he steps on the gas. If he was running SUs I would say that his damper oil was too thin, but I don't know much of anything about Mikunis. I do know that my car pings like crazy on the interstate with anything below 92 octane gas, but will otherwise run OK with 91 octane. I have never tried 89...

His profile lists the car as a ZX. (From memory a 79 I think...) I have heard that the automatic climate control version of the ZX can fail in a way that causes the airflow to be directed to random vents, and that it is difficult to fix. But that is just hearsay, so if someone knows the real story please chime in.

I saw the article, but dismissed it as uninformed.

Drove the Z to our first Indy Z car club event of the year, Garage Day! It was raining and cold, but an excuse to drive the Z makes it all worth it. Not to mention that Rick cooks the best beef brisket known...

Good luck. If the car runs that is a good place to start. You might consider taking it to a good mechanic in your area to give it a quick once over, particularly if you are not good at working on cars. Otherwise you will either have to learn fast, or will end up giving up.