Patcon

I would remove the eccentric. It will only add vibration and wear

Still looking

Will be interesting to see if your heat soak is better...

You could always sand the bushings a little until they fit the way you like

Its much easier to use a zip tie. Install the chain. Remove the slack then cut the zip tie and pull it out.

Can someone clarify that? Maybe a sketch?

I have several suspects: Tank heater wasn't on but several other items seemed to do ok I added brightener and if you over do it, it can cause blistering My current was pretty high on the first few pieces. I suspect it might be a combination of things. On an interesting note, I had some of the bigger pieces that didn't want to plate evenly. The edges looked good but the center area was still dull. So I stood there for a little while and just cycled the current really high then low. Up and down over and over. It worked really well! I believe commercial power supplies do this automatically. Anyone have an idea on how to do this at home DIY?

Are you using a zip tie on the tensioner to help with assembly?

Here is the plating from yesterday Wiper arms. I plated these myself because I had to wrap the chromed sections and I figure that was easier for me to do in house. It's always a challenge to get the tanks up and running when they've been sitting for a while These first few items blistered really badly. They didn't look this way until after 24 hours. I will blast them and replate later The later items seemed to have worked ok

Yeah, the wiring loom was a good find!

I've never seen those clips before

Does Singer not offer an option?

$4,000 six days to go! I figured 4-5k. Looks like it'll exceed that

Momma saw that the rooms were open for booking the other day. So she booked 5 rooms. I think the plan is for most of my kids to come too. It's also the bosses birthday week. So big plans!!

I made a little progress today Here is what the tar mat looks like all peeled Here are my templates for the tunnel jute I also did a little plating on some wiper parts Not as much progress as I'd like but something...

You can also use the chain guides to eliminate slack. They are slotted for that reason. I might consider enlarging the slots to avoid messing with cams towers and valve geometry. Atleast temporarily

I am planning on doing windshield first. I think it's the harder task

Decking the block would also add slack.

Well let's start with the car is 50 years old. If you treated it as a cheap car and drove it in all sorts of weather, your repair aught to last another 50. If you properly prime your repairs and avoid salted roads I expect your repairs will last 100 or so years. I suspect at that point there will be other challenges to operating your 150+ year old ICE car on public roads. Provided you're still here. 😉

Already $1650 with 7 days to go!!

Honestly, I have no idea!!

I think that info should be posted to the resource page! For me personally I will never remember what thread I saw that in when I want to find it later and I doubt I could craft a Google search to find it either

I suspect the internal specs are the same but the larger one is going to flow better and have more filter media

Another thought is front castor and camber setups. This might be a challenge for a street driven car but I would expect alignment settings would help with the oversteer

Quick steering knuckles are shorter steering arms on the bottom of the front struts. They connect to the tie rods on the steering rack. The shorter length means steering inputs cause more tire movement for the same input versus stock knuckles