Patcon

Yeah the $400 blind side is outrageous. I have never used them because of all the negatives I had heard about them. I post fewer pictures but I am unwilling to put up with the frustration. $20 a year is more reasonable in my opinion. You can host whole websites for a lot less than $400 a year...

North Carolina is probably not too bad but I have found North East DMV's to be really difficult! It would be easiest to call the dmv you want to register it through and have them tell you what they want. I have done that several times when buying cars out of state. Here in SC your regular auto policy will cover you for 30days after the purchase of a car but that probably varies by state

I am on a hunting forum that doesn't host pictures like Mike does here. I suspect all of their pictures are gone too. They were always carrying on about the Photobucket @Captain Obvious you could always down load them here and Mike will make sure they last

@SteveJ

I love all the notes and parts hung where they go! I should do that...

I don't know that correct reproductions are available. You could buy stainless and never have to worry about them again...

The rear bumper is bolted in three sections, center bar and two ends. No need to cut it!!! The middle section is fairly short. If their tanks can't handle the center bar then they are not a very professional setup! If they can't handle the three pieces find someone else! Not only that, when they reweld it there is no way to protect the new welds adequately, since they can't plate it!

My best guesses. Head issues, bad temp gauge. Did you bore the engine? If the cylinder wall thickness gets too thin you can over heat problems...

Missed that. Good. Lacquer is easy to work with and very forgiving but really not used much anymore because of lack of durability...

That's a tentative plan. At least for now. We may just be able to come down for one day. I will know more as it gets closer...

Are you running traditional lacquer as a finished top coat or catalyzed clear coat?

Most of the driving should be North of Atlanta in the I-85 corridor and towards the mountains. So you can avoid the worst of it...

26th It was a little comment in a thread a little while back, last couple of weeks. I don't remember which thread. Maybe some one else will remember it. It was like a single line comment...

Is your base coat catalyzed? I don't catalyze my base coat but have to top coat with in 24 hrs

The fuel level would have been too high with the floats adjusted like the first picture. Which would mean you would need 2 1/2 turns or less. At 3 & 4 turns I would expect flooding issues

That's what I've heard and really one of the biggest issues I have with a standard cup. Not to mention the easier clean up

So you are using a disposable cup system? I would like to go to that at some point. Why did you use mineral spirits instead of lacquer thinner for the epoxy clean up? I assume that drier has desiccant in it? When it turns pink, empty the beads out onto a cookie sheet in the oven at 200d F until they're deep blue then it's ready to reuse

Also remember when drying air, the discharge air temperature is really important. I have a large 3/4" coil of soft copper inside my cool shop to help lower the air temps before it gets to the first dryer. After that it runs 50' to a Sharpe three stage desiccant set up. Because of the venturi effect the air coming out of the gun can spit because the cool air can't hold the moisture. The further the gun is from the air compressor the better because it allows the air to cool. You have more pressure loss but at the pressures we need, flow is normally harder to achieve than pressure @wheee! When you talk about a filter cup. What do you mean? I have filter funnels I strain all my product through. They give them to me at Finishmasters. Also with the little tip you will need to be extra diligent about contaminants

They will probably both work for what you need. Jegs sells the AEM too

So it opens the crimp edge? Most of the ones I've seen cut the flange off, but since we don't have a good source for door skins that's really not desirable

Which model Iwata do you have. that tip is smaller than just about anything I use, fascinating...

Be sure to post up pics and tips. I use alot of paint but haven't used any water based stuff. I am not even sure my paint supplier handles them...

Be sure and read the P-sheets. 600 seems really slick but water based products sometimes have less build. I haven't run any water based products. Will be interesting to see how it goes

Are you referring to the twisted metal wire springs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVATE-MTX-L-DIGITAL-WIDEBAND-UEGO-AFR-GAUGE-KIT-Marine-Powersport-3845-/182173494001?epid=1017782213&hash=item2a6a62eaf1:g:OVwAAOSwSdZWg~ri&vxp=mtr or one of the the other Innovate kits