Patcon

I can just see renters flogging the snot out of your car and then be like "Oh well" $500 deposit wouldn't even touch the wear they could put on a car in a day of clutch dumping and power braking!

I would think as long as the pump can circulate the fuel and not be dead headed then it will work. Might be loud if the regulator is too restrictive...

I have those videos and I have a triumph top in the shop waiting on the right candidate. I like convertibles and if it's done well, I think the aesthetics can work, at least for me...

What kind of pressure regulator? Does it have a bypass line?

I believe they were painted from the factory, but I plated mine

Thanks, Rich I thought that strip between the black and orange just in front of the door hinge was weatherstripping but I believe it is just a different color of paint.

YES, we are! Sparky to the rescue...

Depends on the paint. Solid or metallic? Light color or dark color? If you go metallic you need to paint the car all assembled or different panels will come out different. Dark colors are more forgiving for the amount of coats you apply but less forgiving on the body and metal work. If you paint a sold color on a disassembled car, you need to be careful and apply the same amount of coats to each part or the color shades can vary...

The large black "rockford" cable looks like the ground. It loops under the starter but can't tell if it's connected to the lower starter bolt...

Dum Dum is the sticky tar-like rope stuff that is sometimes used on cars in situations like this.

These guys have done yeomans work helping you through this! I will chime in now, if it were mine I would let it dry as long as I could before reinstalling the tank. If you can run a fan to move air through the tank, do that too.

Ahhhhhh, Christmas...in August.

and they had a trunk lid! Most delete the trunk entirely...

Thanks Jim The ebay rack doesn't specify 240z. Aren't they all the same 240-280z? Never mind I found the answer in the Hybrid thread

Looks good! Rich, Can you make a better picture of where the cowl drain comes out? I see the panel that fits under the fender. Is that dum dum behind that on the car frame running vertically? Also the cross member bolts only have lock nuts, is that correct? I think the FSM shows redundant washers there too. I wasn't sure if that was correct. Seems a little excessive... I worked on the same stuff this weekend while I was working on getting my plating going again...

When I start tuning some triples I might be able to help lighten your load...

I started on the rack for the yellow car and was just gonna read back through this thread since I book marked it. I remember it being really good. I just wanted to sort of get a feel for what to expect. I can't remember anything specific I need; it was just well documented and nice and technical...

Looks like a starter solenoid

This was such a beautiful thread, I hate Photobucket!!!!

I would think the thing to do is make the new struts the same length over all as the strut that comes out. Make the spacer what ever it needs to be to accomplish this

It is available to go. PM me and we can talk price

I believe I only have one

69,000 miles. Looks like a pretty nice survivor. It's a little expensive but for the shape seems pretty reasonable

I figure with a race car interior then the roof color will have a bigger impact. No headliner, no door panels, nothing but painted metal between you and the great outdoors

My first Z was black and you knew it, even with the windows down. The dark blue will have the same basic effect...