Patcon

It actually ran with the socket in the dizzy? How bought that!!!

The way I understand it is all the VIN tags (3) match each other but not the engraving on the firewall. So they are not original to this chassis

Ok. Spraying paint takes a lot of air and the more the compressor runs the hotter there air coming out of it is. As the air gets hot it absorbs water. When the water comes out the end of the paint gun the Venturi effect cools the air drastically and can cause water problems in your paint or water spitting. No harm in trying with it but you need to get a couple of dryers to put in line...

I was referring to compressed air for the paint gun...

Yeah that is a problem. I know the aluminum ones can be relined. It's expensive right now but I think over time it will be come more comparable to buying steel drums and they are more desirable from a correct part aspect. Is there some other way to get the drums off. Drive them off with the stub axle, maybe...

Sorry for that! So they either hot wired it or more likely towed it...

I agree with Grannyknot. Use it as you see fit and let sleeping dogs lie. If you are gonna sell it you should make the buyer aware of the issue. I would be surprised if you could get the firewall VIN used on a new title. DMV's don't really want to mess with these issues and you may end up in a situation where they questions the legal title of the vehicle. In other words you could potentially, maybe a long shot, loose the car or clear title. You get into a supremely gray area here but I have considered making the firewall VIN match the plates. The law and the DMV say the car is this VIN number, so is it improper to make the fire wall VIN match what they say it should be?

Yes!! Lincoln makes a good welder. Purchase a little bottle from a welding supply or buy an empty bottle and have them fill it. What is the situation on available air?

I hope you are saving the rear struts and the aluminum brake drums...

I agree with Mark on the flux core but I will also add I had boat loads of frustration with a cheap 100amp 120volt welder. I was like this can't be this hard or no one would do it. I bought a better welder, a Hobart, that is 220v which you don't really need and plenty of capacity and the welding got much easier... Thoughts on your approach: Do you have problem neighbors? Painting in SC is not a problem; painting in CA could be.. paint smells and problem neighbors could cause problems... I don't know that I would try to get all the way to metal. If I had the car all apart and blasted clean then I would go epoxy primer but for you, it just adds work. If you get down to something solid and well adhered I would start priming from there and block it out. The more you can remove from the car the better your Maaco job will look. I would probably leave all the glass out of it and just let them tape it up... You need to be careful with paint products!!! Especially products like epoxy primer, they can be very bad for your long term and short term health. You need a good respirator and know how to use and care for it. Is your garage big enough? Can you get all the way around the car with some room to spare? You will need to tent up the garage when you spray or it will be on everything and all your sanding dust will be in your paint. Also do you have a reasonably large source or fairly dry air to run a spray gun? The more CFM the better...

Do you know how it was stolen? Hot wired? Broken window? Towed?

Are you gonna paint it yourself? If not ask the body shop, they will have to stand behind it. If you are gonna do it yourself, talk to your local paint supplier. I suspect you will have to clean it good! Shoot a base coat with the flake in it. Then clear it. Basically a whole new paint job...

It's a good looking car and well done. Although its a four banger... Buuuuutttt, they took a 13k mile car and restomodded it???

I don't like Facebook and spend almost no time there. If this forum dies out then I will quit participating. Not interested in migrating to Facebook...

Totally agree, so many good pictures of how it should be!

I realize that the parts changed incrementally over time and sometimes not in a linear fashion, but I do find it helpful to have some kind of expectation of what should be on a given car based on when it was made. I also think the discussion of the details of individual car would get trying. I take all of that with a grain of salt but it gives some kind of idea of what kind of parts would have to be sourced and how costly that process will be. That may change the way I approach the project. I also appreciate the series terminology even though it irritates others for the simple fact that it makes communication more efficient. As I get older, I value my time more and don't want to waste it to say "light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation". "Laser" will work just find and it saves me time which is a finite resource. Thanks for the input to date. I need to get some pictures up...

This to me seems like the first issue. If he can't keep it running with Ether (starting fluid) then it is not drawing enough fuel in or he is losing spark...

So let me get this right. It will start with Ether but you can't keep it running with Ether? That would concern me if that's the case...

David Finley has nice lettering, architect or engineer maybe...?

@sweatybetty

Wow!!! That is quite the list. Much more extensive than I expected...

I am not positive but I would think the tumblers and the door latch would be independant

I like the passenger side mirror...

I find it very rare that the tumblers become unusable. Normally lubricant will fix that. Like Mark said use a graphite lubricant not a WD40 type product

Cudos for that!!!