Patcon

As an aside, you could also do a search for 280zx and it would provide the same graph so you could see what range the zx cars are trading for too

https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/280z/ This has sales data for the 280z. This does not mean you couldn't come across a deal on Craigslist. If you hold your cursor over the dot on the graph it will link through to the ad for each car, so you can see condition

Maybe it's longer, ie ncL-110

Yes, what he said. The fuel makes the rubber stiff. When you remove it from the tank it can shrink some. Some heat should help make it more pliable but gas fumes are really dangerous around heat guns and blow driers and they are heavier than air. You could always use some boiling water if you could figure out how to apply it to the bottom of the hose

If that's what it takes!

How long did it take to do that square foot?

I basically have an older version of the same gun. I had thought of upgrading but when we had Cody's car at the paint shop I asked the manager if my spraying would be any better with a higher end gun and he flat out told me no. He told me there were plenty of guys with high end guns that didn't lay paint down as well as what I had done. So that was encouraging. It's always amazing to me how many flaws that black can show up. As a word of caution, and I may have mentioned this earlier, many panels like the top of the fenders and the hatch flats are very thin. They need very light pressure to block out flat. If you push too hard they won't block out smooth Evidently someone that started a business near you ?

No worries! I am just wondering how that black eye would look with that beard? You could of course claim you tripped and hit your face on the lathe BTW we're getting close, so no stupidity before Atlanta! Take care of that back!!!

You will find this forum is pretty tolerant overall. Much more so than HybridZ. They do some really cool stuff at HybridZ and have come up with some really neat swaps that are efficient and cost friendly, but tolerant, not so much. If you know what you are looking for as far as color then don't just pic between these two cars. There are tons of ZX cars available. Don't be afraid to go out a little farther to look for cars. If you find one in a different state then maybe there is a member there close by that will look at it for you or you can post the ad and we can pick it over. Also I have owned a black Z wouldn't want another one, especially in Texas. Try this to widen your search www.searchtempest.com

Yeah, I didn't look that close. I did a search for conductive paint to find those. You may just have to look farther back in the search results. Might need to specify aerosol

They can be buffed with a string buff and plastic polish but the rpm's need to be 1800 or lower or you can melt the lens. The news lenses look good...

wheee! is of course building a sound booth!

Very interesting. It would be nice to find a product that performed well at this. I suspect many older pieces of glass could use some attention like this

BaT says that's a no reserve auction. So will it really sell for $800 if that's the final auction amount? Or will the seller cancel the auction at the last minute like they do on Ebay. I would give you $800 for that car all day long, even if it is half way across the country

I totally see the point of restoring it! I even considered it myself... I don't know about anybody else but I don't search over peoples cars at a car show to verify the numbers match. If the engine bay is period correct I suspect almost nobody would know if the engine number matched or not. If the engine bay plate is still in the car you would know what number motor you were looking for. You could even re-manufacture a block with the correct numbers as long as you disclosed the fact it was not the original motor, although future owners might not be that ethical.

They should never be replaced with standard wire jumpers! They should also be replaced with the proper amperage link if they do need replacing.

This is definitely the most encompassing way to describe Cliff The silver car looks good and the center console in the picture is very clean. It would be my first choice between these two cars. The dash might have cracks, but most Z's do. It might not though if that rug has been on there a long time. Seats are a really easy fix and cheap. Body and paint work is not easy or cheap and it is difficult to do at home. The front right fender on the silver car looks like a different color. So I would look for damage on the inside of the engine bay on the passenger side and the radiator support. the T-tops can leak but they add value to the car too. Mileage doesn't scare me too much on either of the cars as far as mechanicals go. The engines are very durable and so are the transmissions if they're not abused. What goes bad with lots of mileage are all the little parts: window regulators, switches, seat mechanisms, wiper motors, blower motors, etc I would be concerned about rust on the black car and the rear tail light panel will take a considerable amount of money to look right again. I wonder if there is crash damage under any of that, which necessitated the changes. I would be more interested in the silver one over the back one. For the cost of making the body right on the black one you can do a lot of mechanical work. Also the brake leak may not be obvious if the master is leaking into the booster As for buying a car out of Florida, you are better buying one from Texas, as long as you avoid the coast. You could also shop further West. The cars further West should have less rust. Some of the other aspects may be more sunburnt but a whole interior could be bought used for probably a $1,000, for that matter you could find a rust bucket from somewhere else and take anything off it to move to whatever car you find. The condensed version: Buy the best body and paint you can afford, all the other stuff is easier to over come. Paint jail is not and rust is a slow death waiting...

The Caswell product is waterbased and I see problems with cleaning the glass or condensate on the interior surface. You really need to find a solvent based product Maybe one of these: https://www.midwesttech.com/Electrolube-scp03b-scp-silver-conductive-paint-3g/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz93cBRCrARIsAEFbWsh5v55IRJDBayNKbkamMSkGJajY7W_J1Lpt9YL1ZX0Vm0m6nmgewXsaAkE5EALw_wcB https://www.etsy.com/listing/519528043/silver-conductive-paint-scp?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_b-electronics_and_accessories-other&utm_custom1=b66cd0c9-ee2b-42c1-98c1-4d27634cbc4f&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz93cBRCrARIsAEFbWsgTmeVGslyQpamHc6pYAtTZE6mN0NNWoSss2Gc1j9cY4iEpD2s0GgMaAjsIEALw_wcB https://www.google.com/shopping/product/9674429714092994981?q=conductive+spray+paint&biw=1366&bih=632&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX2z4DA6QMUsuu51_rStj--GYT7m-VzJZJ1XIXN_UWQhoRrAg2cgiQO-GbvEgCFtJHnHcYJ2_kO5PqO5H2R4AbNlQU5erAjTfs1XHuRffBO6NM-KwwhIZAFPVH71QOWWvgdHBi0RNSblIutnZs4kC_w&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj1mOS2hrTdAhUM0lMKHZoODagQ8wIIgwM

The front turn signals turned out good!

It is a very limited thing and I don't want to advertise for the source...

Yeah I need to double check them for being clean, although I would think the brass would yield to the hard steel rack pretty easily

Those are a mess. I have learned storing cars out on the ground is the worst for them. Outside on the concrete rust them much slower than in the woods. It's a shame really

No other issues between the ZX gasket and the Z gasket?

I did some more plating today. I did not realize that the ends of the air filter bolts were brazed on. It might be hard to see in this photo The color and finish is pretty good on these but I don't like how the pitting showed up on the butterflys. I make take these back down and do some sanding on them to minimize the pitting. I am still running pretty high currents right now. So I have ordered some chemical and am going to try to reduce the resistance across the tank some on my next plating day.

So I did a little bit on the booster rebuild today. I was able to find a micro-manufacturer and the machinist there came up with an idea for staking the plunger end that he said should have been obvious to me. So I got it in the mail the other day. A very elegant solution... The fixture is comprised of two haves that are machined to hold the plunger tip. The halves are held together with threaded screws. Then it has a hole that accepts a punch that reproduces the staking mark on the original plunger end Now the staking punch has a lock nut that allows the depth of drive to be adjusted. So this can be set up in the press and then each stake can be reset to hold the plunger assembly together This is a view of the original stake mark