Patcon

That's a lot of money to spend with no assurances on functionality

I use silicone spray on squeaky panels...

Still, great progress. I need to spend some time in the shop myself...

Good progress. Are you gonna shoot another coat of primer before finish paint?

The seller will email pictures of them. I couldn't get them to attach because my internet was acting up. I believe he will ship. Contact him through the link. I agree with Jerry to be careful. It did seem like some things were missing off the top. I don't know mikunis very well and they don't appear to have just come off a car. Expensive parts could add up quickly...

92 degrees, not that hot and cars don' really feel humidity like we do. These cars sometimes don't cool well but that would be in 100+ heat. You have an ignition problem, a lean condition or insufficient cooling. You shouldn't overheat at those temperatures

Merry Christmas Be safe

How hot is it there in traffic?

I have a set of rebuilt webers sitting in a box ready to go on something, and I am a packrat and new shiny carbs would look good in my nest but I don't have the money right now either. The price isn't bad, if they had been a little cheaper I might have done it. Hopefully someone here will be interested.

Found this is on craigslist http://nwga.craigslist.org/cto/5362276653.html Do you still have the mikunis? What do you want for them? Are they on a manifold? Thanks ,Charles yes I do make me a reasonable offer and yes they are on a manifold with linkage The question would be what do you think is a reasonable offer? C $1000.00 or best offer

I don't know maybe some guys can post pics of the 240z versus the 280z lower section of the radiator support...

I am gonna add this here because it is your build thread and maybe someone else can chime in. Core support part numbers: 240z 62500-N3400 260z to Aug 74' 62500-N3615 62500-N4310 9/74'-11/74' from 12/74' 62500-N4200 all 280z 62500-N4200 There are evidently 4 different core supports on the 2 seater cars. I know the 240z supports do not have the vertical piece of metal across the top that holds the weather strip to seal to the hood. I believe that is to aide cooling. Also I believe the later cores may be taller because when I install a later radiator in my car possibly 280zx? they hang below the core support. The holes are also different in the later core supports and some of them are different sizes to allow the larger intake hoses to pass through. Some pictures might help if some people can post up different years. My 240z was repaired with a later core support so the width seems to be the same...

If you take the screws out of the knobs pay close attention. The screws are small and easily lost

You picked a hard part to drill. That is spring steel, wouldn't have been my first choice, most people mount to the sub-frame. The install looks good though

Ditto on Greyhound. I have had whole bumper assemblies shipped all over the place for reasonable money. I will add this, if you were to remove the firewall from your rusty car or most of it and graft it into the new chassis as well as some other parts. Did you really move vin's or did you rebuild the shell with a lot of other parts. I may also have a roof skin too. Would have to look...

I suspect that it is the head that grows more than the manifold. If I remember right aluminum grows more with heat than steel. So it may be the head that really moves not the exhaust...

Yeah that's a little on the thick side...

Can the water valve be seen if you put a mirror in the footwell? If so she Jai could use a mirror so see if it's hooked up and does it move...

Wheee! The 280z radiator support is different from the 240z radiator support Mark, It is a very gray area when you start looking at transferring vin's. Be careful, not saying you can't do it but most DMV's frown heavily on it. That being said if it's done well I don't know how they would know. the firewall VIN would be the hardest part. Never done it but have considered it. I don't want to defraud anyone but sometimes it is easier to save a car by starting with a better shell.

I think what they did on the rocker was fill it so it lined up well with the fender. I do all my panels this way. I may rough a door out on a stand but for final work I mount them on the car, adjust them, then block them as one large panel, across the body gaps. Then I fill and block as necessary. This makes the car as straight a possible. I do however prefer to have less build...

Martzedcars If the stud is broken off flush with the head, how do you plan on welding to it? Lay the nut on the head and weld down through the center to the stud?

Mark Let us know how the discing goes. It looks really easy but that can be deceiving...

Ahh the voices...I've heard those before...

The hood looks good, nice and thin

Yes the 2 part guns are very expensive. I have looked for one for a while for Evercoat products. They have some 10:1 products that use a proprietary gun design. Haven't found one yet and can't justify $150 gun...