Patcon

I polished a set of lenses for the front turn signals. I also found a set of front turn gaskets to clean up

I finished the dash up this week. At least enough to go in... Got the steering column in too. waiting on bolts for the steering coupler

I worked on the tail lights some more. Selected the better used parts I have Disassembly requires removing this little locking disc off the plastic prong on the middle of the light trim I have never removed one successfully These are the retainers on the inside of the lens holding the trim on

Can someone confirm this the factory 240z shifter boot ring? Lily is an automatic car and this ring doesn't line up at all with any of the four bolts welded to the tunnel Also what fasteners are used to hold the ring down. Bolts or sheet metal screws???

I would start with the external tank, I believe. One less variable. Once it runs properly add the main fuel system and pray you get the same result

That's good progress! How close are you to being ready for startup?

Can you give any feedback on approximate cost for a switch rebuild?

That's good 115v would be much easier to use. Any concerns about water near the motor or GFI protection?

What about Jim Arnett? 😉

Are you running 115v or 230v?

Thanks Ernest!

There are so many little things that need redoing or correcting but at this point the car just needs to get done and enjoyed for a while. It is unlikely it will ever be sold because my kids will all fight over it. So it will fall to one of them to correct the things they don't like if I don't get around to it

There are many things in life that are not used in the way they were intended or good ways. That doesn't make the thing the problem but instead the application. Like many of these things, we here or most people anywhere can't stop the misuse of these things. The best we can do is use these things including the Series 1/2 designation in a responsible way and move forward.

I don't find the Series 1 / 2 terminology offensive. I look at it as a general description that gives some idea of the traits the car could have. It's not normally used as a hard and fast rule or an absolute. I find the terminology very helpful and always have. If I want exactness I use production dates but it's very rare I care that much.

Cody worked on the brake booster some. I found a longer clevis. It also has a larger diameter pin which fits better in the pedal This brought the pedal height up and against the brake switch We messed with quarter windows last weekend. It was frustrating. Probably one of the tougher jobs to do, especially by yourself and get them right. We did get them installed last weekend. I wrapped a string around them to make it easier to get the lip turned out properly. But at the back of the drivers side window, it got really tight to the body and the seal ripped instead of turning out. On the passenger side, I wrapped the seal too tight to the glass and it didn't seal at the back corner of the glass Fortunately for some odd reason I had an extra set of quarter window seals. So this week in the evenings I redid the quarter window seals. We put them back in yesterday They both pretty much seal but they're still not quite right. The passenger side gap closed up but the seal turns in a little at the back becuase it doesn't have enough pressure on it to make it flair evenly. The drivers side does the same thing but in a different location. I visited Inline6 this week and saw his immaculate car. He said he used a slice of a bondo spreader to work the lips out from the inside of the car. It is flexible to put it down between the glass frame and the body to push from the inside. Tips for quarter windows. Grannyknots pick idea works really good to help manipulate the frames. Also just get the screws all started then work on getting the lips all turned out. The windows will still move a little until they're all the way tightened down. Also if the doors are off you can use the door jamb up by the door hinges to help push with your foot to get enough force to push the window back in place I finished the inner weatherstrip on the hatch yesterday and got the hatch back on. It sits a good bit proud of the body because it's so new. Hopefully it will relax over time I also used some silicone grease on the weatherstrip at the hood hinges to keep the hinge screws from nipping the weatherstrip. Seems to be working

So here is the frame stripped down. Later I shot some rust converter and then some black around the defrost area So to thin down around the glove box area. I used a Rolok instead of a razor blade. Makes a mess but very quick Be careful when working behind the indentions that mark the glovebox outline. It's easy to cut through. Backlit... So evidently the dash I pulled from the brown Z was a later pad and frame with the early harness in it. The dash cigarette lighter was just mounted to the dash. Not wired up. The replacement dash pad itself has been a great disappointment! For starters, I had started working on the dash and had the pad mounted to the frame when I noticed a little wavyness in the top of one of the pods. When I messed with it, I realized it was hollow! I contacted JDM-CAR-PARTS and was cited their policy of 14 day return window. It had been well more than 14 days. I was also told it looked like I'd had it leaning up against something. In actuality, I pulled it out of the box when I got it. Gave it a quick look over and put it back in the bag and original packaging until I got ready to tackle it. I made it clear in a follow up email that I didn't want to return it but I would like the "blemished" price because that's what it is, but I got radio silence. I also don't like how much room is around the gauges. They don't fit super snug and I found out yesterday the glovebox lock doesn't center in the dash hole. I will have to clearance the lock mounting holes to shift it over, but the glovebox latch might not work if I do that. Overall, not impressed!!! I'll make do for now and it's better than what I had. If I were doing it over I would buy the more expensive dash. You would think these are all made at the same place in Asia, but maybe not. I don't recall other members that have used reproduction pads having these kinds of issues. Here is it's current state of reassembly

So on May 31st we pulled the brown Z out into the driveway and cannibalized it. Snake skin in the rocker panel. Dash out The dash frames evidently didn't have much in the way of protection or paint. These are the bottom two corners of the dash frame. Completely gone!

After it runs what are the compression numbers? What year car? Signature line? What ignition system?

One of my sons and one of my daughters helped me work on cars all weekend. It was a nice weekend...

Happy father's day

Then the vapor tank is cracked or you have hoses that are leaking. If your vapor tank is metal then you can tighten the hose clamps with no fear...

Or you smell gas from another source, not the canister...

30 amps is alot of Draw. Any ideas?

Looks like fun!

It's #684! A potentially valuable car. Plenty of donors available for upper area metal. I would try to save it, if I could, based on Vin number alone. If the A pillars, roof structure and most of the firewall was good, I would probably give it a shot. It would also be nice if the tunnel was good down to where the floor pans would meet it. I would probably want to dip that chassis before the final decision got made I've got one worse than that in the driveway. The rusty one I have is beyond saving but it's also not a super early car