Patcon

Blue, Did you ever source the larger flares? The Akira ones are pretty good, but I think I prefer the larger flares... Charles

I found that my 73 won't crack if all of that is not hooked up. Also make sure all the small connections at the passenger kick panel are correct. Will it crank over with a remote starter or screwdriver short on the starter? Is the harness well grounded to the firewall near the battery? C

Theorectically you could multiply the desired dimension by 1.3723 and that would give you the correct value for float setting in water. But I am not sure I did the conversion right... somebody want to check that? C

A gallon of water weighs about 8.33 #'s a gallon of gasoline weighs 6.07 #'s so the float is going to ride higher in the water versus the gasoline because it has to displace more gasoline to equal its weight than water to equal its weight... Charles

Is every thing plugged into the harness? Even the rear harness sections that go down the passenger frame rail? Charles

Did a little Google search and that seems like a tough transmission but it looks like you better be ready to get off your wallet... C

You're lapping me at this point. I found a little more frame damage the other day, so I have put off spraying the engine bay and interior until I get our frame man to pull on it a little bit. It is great to get to color. It starts to get fun after that... Charles

Notes on Eastwood internal frame coating. If you buy some use it they won't stand behind it after just a little while look up their terms, I want to say 30 days. I had a can on the shelf for a while and it wouldn't dispense so that can is full but trash. The cans are not cheap something like $20 each. I used 4 cans or so on my Z. Around the hatch frame, inside the lower part of the hatch. The frame areas on the hood, floor boards and frame rails, areas of the quarters that are hard to paint. Rear subframe. It works pretty good and is top coatable with pretty much anything according to their technical guys. I went over where needed with Epoxy primer. The small hose on the aerosol cans works really well because it will go in many of the smaller diameter factory holes. My car is on a rotisserie so I could rotate it to help distribute the material. Eastwood also sells an under coater gun with a quart of Internal Frame coating included. Don't go that route. I did and the material will not feed through the gun. It dries too quickly and stops up the under coater gun. That was a huge disappointment. The aerosol cans work pretty good though. I would do that again... Charles

Datsun : Z-Series G-Nose in Datsun | eBay Motors Ebay link, sold for 15k. Pretty nice car, I love the sound of the cam... C

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/50099-hunt-early-z-70-71-72-73-a.html#post438950 Try this C

Thanks Montezuma, Charles

couldn't get the link to work... C

When you sand to the tape do you hit the tape at all. Or do you try to sand right up to the edge of the tape. I tend to hit the tape some but it seems to get sanded instead of the primer. Juts wondering if that is correct... Thanks for the reply, Charles

I believe the early car wiring harnesses got reworked some in the later cars. The later harness is a little different and the 73 harness is even different again. I don't know if the white wires were changed in any of the later editions. I have seen these white wires show signs of overheating on several of my cars... Charles

E, I saw that you were using tape to straighten the lines on the car. What is your technique for doing this? I have been using that technique on my doors because they had some damage right at the detail line in the door but they are still wavy. Any pointers would help? Charles

Are you sure that is oil? On my carbs that tends to be old gas that yellows as it ages... Charles

Went to article and clicked thru to Vanderbrink website and watched several videos cataloging the cars. Amazing collection of cars. Auctions Sept 28th and 29th I believe, available to watch or bid online. They will clear several million I would think... C

As a general rule, my understanding of port size and runner length, longer and/or smaller runners and ports give torque; larger and/or shorter runners give flow. It is kind of hard to get a lot of both. Look at how dual plane v-8 intakes are made versus racing single plane intakes. Charles

I figure I will have a $1000 or more in just paint, primer and fillers when I am done. That doesn't include paper, sanding blocks, lacquer thinner, etc. Automotive paint is very expensive and to do a high level paint job takes time and money. I already have a hundred hours or so in just paint labor and block sanding and I haven't started on the shell yet. The hood, doors, fenders, hatch and headlight buckets are close and the under side of the shell is done. At $50 an hour for shop time you can see how paint jobs get expensive. And I am not a Noob at this, I have painted several cars... Charles

I don't think the smaller boosters are available and I was talking to a rebuild shop about getting diaphragms to rebuild some of the boosters I have laying around. I don't think they have a source for the smaller diaphragms any more so hence no rebuilt little boosters... Charles

Montezuma, Which flares are you referring to. The ones on the black Gnose or like the Akira car? Charles

Blue I saw that car on Rocky Auto a while back. I had thought about trying to find out the same thing. I really like the flare kit and the air dam on that car. It would be nice to find a way to get those exported for those of us that don't get to shop for them directly. I like the car and it is actually purple which is cool look. Rocky Auto would be where I would start... Charles

I agree find a good frame shop and get their assessment on what it will take to fix. Jim has a good eye and I think that is a good call on the Fiberglass. There is either a hole there or a bad wrinkle in the frame rail and they filled it to doctor it up. I would not expect the repair to be cheap. It took a pretty good hit right at the front wheels so I would also look for other damaged components. Bent suspension arms, drop links, sway bar, steering rack. Also check the rear suspension over. That might have also taken a lick. Look for badly wrinkled metal in the engine bay. Looks like crumpled paper that has been flattened back out. Check up near the radiator support and behind the hood hinges. Areas that don't typically get replaced in this type of accident. Let us know what you find out. Charles

I had ideas for a once only noise. For something like you have, I don't know. Dirty oil pump pick up. Air in the oil galleys??? I don't know any one else have ideas? C

I would help but I am too far away. I also don't know the spark setup well enough to help you trouble shoot some of the other 280z or zx guys should be able to help you trouble shoot... Charles