Patcon

I would use a thin flat putty knife and scrape the foam loose from the roof skin. Check that its big enough to reposition and reglue with spray on headliner adhesive. I don't think heating it is a good idea... C

Lots of good parts. Hate to see another car get parted especially a fairly low number car. Too far for me... C

It appears you are in Arizona so I would think evaporation is working against you and the mechanical pump takes a while at cranking speeds to fill every thing up... Charles

Although I see you are in the UK shipping might be an issue for such an inexpensive item... C

They appear to still be an available dealer item. A couple of bucks. Use the part number and check Courtesy Nissan online... Charles

The roof skin can certainly be replaced. You could patch in the sunroof area but it will be hard to weld it all up and not oil can (warp) the roof panel. To replace the whole roof skin the windshield and hatch would have to come off. All the spot welds across the top of the windshield and the top of the hatch and the drip rails would have to be drilled out about a 100 or so. Then the new roof skin welded in. You would actually leave the subframe of the roof in place which would hold the shape of the car. It is not that complicated but it is a good bit of work. Patching is easier but bondo will be necessary to make it look good... Charles

Thanks John but I don't know that either. I understand the other two aspect of front end alignment but not what the tension rod length affects. Charles

How does caster adjustment affect a 240z? Charles

Rockauto I looked up an 83' turbo I couldn't find what car you're working on in your profile, but there is a large assortment of boots under the drivetrain tab... Charles

Some how that makes me happy I treasure nice quarter panels these days. As they get rarer and rarer every year... Charles

I also second Madkaw's question. I assume you assembled the bottom end did you plasti-gage or mic your clearances? C

I agree the head sounds flat but is the block flat, clean, true. Are all the head bolt holes tapped and chased. Did you use any lubricant on the head bolts. I don't know what the FSM recommends but ARP bolts require lube to get the right torque values. A small dose of stop leak might be an easy way out... Charles

I hate that. I have built a number of engines Z's and others. I agree the bearing clearances on a polished crank running standard bearings should be on the loose side not too tight. I am curious to see which bearings or whether it's all of them. Take some pictures of each bearing and keep them in order. I have had motors destroyed like this but from different circumstances. I have one motor I built that has excessive oil pressure that I have yet to identify. I tend to agree that you had a blockage or partial blockage somewhere, junk out of the filter, a piece of gasket or a loose piece of RTV something. If the bearings are evenly worn and cooked It would have to be a serious blockage to blank the whole crank. Remember that you may not be able to remove the bearings from the crank. I had one fail like that too, they were welded on. I really feel for the loss of time, parts and machine work. Charles

very cool, enjoy... Charles

I don't know if this product is suitable for powder coating, you could probably ask Eastwood. I use Eastwood's "After blast" on parts after I strip them. It is an acid product with some other additives it works a lot like "Ospho" but with out the varnish like finish. It turns the parts blueish gray like Phosphoric acid does and they can sit for months in my shop and not develop any surface rust. You might want to look into it... FWIW no relation with either company... Charles

More beautiful work, as always... C

Very nice pictures but I was wondering how much was stick welding and how much was TIG or Mig... Charles

Yup $130 plus shipping versus $56 from Australia ... Charles

When do you expect the parts? C

When do you expect the parts? C

Ad is $30,000 if it is a very nice car he is probably not bad out of line C

Caswell has a lot of supplies for the DIY'er the yellow cad that is on many of the Z fasteners and the bright zinc that is on many of the screws and door hardware etc are reproducible with theirs kits and are actual zinc plating not paints like the Eastwood kits are. It is a cool process and the results are really good. I you want a great looking car clean fasteners is the way to go, and like most things it is much cheaper to plate them yourself. nix240z has a cool setup and has plated many things, his car will be museum quality when it is done... Charles

Jan, I just bought a new set out of Australia from "peterkm123" off ebay there were about $56 a pair the only other source I know of is Precision Rubber I believe at $140+ per pair. Charles

How's the knee? The car? Charles

I didn't understand the comment E-tek. I have some fresh epoxy primer and after 3 weeks it will still rub off with lacquer thinner. Kevin Tetz responded to me on another forum and said it was just the nature of the material. So that appears to be the case...