Patcon

So you pour gas into the rubber line that goes to the float bowls and it runs. After getting it to run 3 times you had fuel in the same line from the fuel pump? Correct? C

I did not know that about straight Argon. That is interesting... C

I had a century 100 amp welder at one time and it welded like a "drunk monkey". I bought myself a Hobart 230 last year for Christmas. Much easier to weld with a good welder especially if it can be run at 100% duty cycle. I have lots of ideas for your welds but it is much easier to figure out by feel. Sometimes I get little beads like that when my heat isn't high enough, metal is too dirty or not enough shielding gas. I usually run at the highest setting I can with out burning holes. You can also avoid holes by triggering in short burst and not holding the torch square to the surface. If the metal gets red hot the shield gas can blow holes in it. I have found on my Z I use the #1 and #2 settings on my welder out of 12 settings. The metal is very thin and it is easy to blow holes in it especially if it is on a panel that got stretched a lot when it was stamped. My speed setting is about 22-28 on those first 2 settings which I think is inches per minute (?). I like it to sound like frying bacon real consistent sizzle and very little popping. Generally when I am getting popping it is because the metal is dirty or rusty. A little die grinder with a 2" 36 grit rowlock pad works good for this and quick. Praticing on a test panel to find some initial settings is a good idea preferably a Z panel because the alloy and the gauge will be similar. My 2 cents... Charles

I didn't know the breadth of their product line that is good to know. C

I was under the impression POR-15 didn't like UV exposure....? Charles

Thanks, let me know how it goes... Charles

Mikes Z car: What kind of welder were you using? MIG? Shielding gas or flux core? What amperage welder? Charles

I have a question. Do the carbs seem to have a hesitation when revving from idle? I have the same DGV's on one of my Z's. It has a noticeable hesitation when revved, I suspect a vacuum leak but it may be the poor design of the intake... Charles

This is purely anecdotal evidence, but I am 6'5" and when I was in college I rarely saw people as tall as me, basketball players excluded. In my church of 500 or so there were a handful as tall as me. Today I routinely see people my height or taller and I know several women that can almost look me in the eye. Also very old homes have the door knobs that are much lower than new homes so I believe we are gradually getting taller. That being said I think Hodgimus is probably right. The taller stance of cars has as much to do with crash protection and regulation as occupant size does. C

That sounds like progress. Very good... Charles

Has it ever run right for you with these carbs? Or said another way is it a new problem or is this how you got the car? If it is a new problem I would check: fuel pressure, clean fresh fuel, dirt in float bowls. If it is an old problem I would check these same after I cleaned the carbs....the new fuel does not store well and may have gummed up the idle jets... Charles

Leon, The thought was along the lines of pinging is a lean condition so more fuel eliminates pinging and gets a mixture ratio more in an acceleration range or 12.5-13.5. The larger displacement of the 2.8 requires more air which is easier to accomplish thru three dcoe type carbs than two single bore carbs without raising velocities a lot higher. It seems triples tend to run some what rich and at the DCOE Yahoo group that is the way they suggest running them. Lastly gasoline is being converted to power, so to make a lot of power it takes more fuel. That is why even new cars with crazy amounts of power with modern systems don't get fabulous fuel mileage because the engine needs a certain amount of fuel. Just my deductions... Charles

If I break a hidden nut loose the only good fix is like you did where you get access to the back and weld it back on... Charles

I thought those were very reasonable numbers too for a moderate build. I would think you will put down some more power on the triples because they should tend to be a little richer and power requires fuel... the pinging would indicate that too. Charles

Dip the new tap in cutting oil or motor oil and don't force it. It will cut better if lubricated and they are very hard which tends to make them brittle. As you have found out they don't bend they break. If the other bolt breaks in the other rocker drill it out and even if the hole gets a little off center or a little too large as long as the tap has something to bite it will cut new threads. If the new threads are not full depth just don't over tighten the new bolt so as not to strip them. Also this is a good location for anti-seize... also I have found if you use too much force on these hidden nuts you can actually break them loose from the panel which is also a pain... Charles

That's too bad you missed out. Did someone on the site buy it? It would be nice to see its progress. As for restoring with out the early parts. Most could be replaced with later parts until suitable early parts could be found to take their place. IE steering wheel, front glass, rear hatch, vents, emblems, etc. I do hope it went to a good home and is not getting parted... Charles

Not very much the way it sits. Most people would consider it a parts car unless the rust is limited to the floors and no where else... C

I assume that HP number is at the wheels...? C

Make sure the slave cylinder is returning all the way. If the fluid can't flow back freely it will cause that clutch slippage... Is there supposed to be a return spring on the 73' cars? Charles

I would love to take that car on and have seriously thought about it but just can't do it right now. Charles

That's a neat color it aught to look great. Charles

I'll look in the shop and see what I have. I may send you some pics... Charles

In one of the other threads Blue posted one of the guys found a similar discrepancy in the rear frame rails... C

Thanks for the help last night Blue. I picked the car up today. He had it all squared up and level. The bolts for the front bumper are not exactly right but if he pulled that section it would throw off the fender. I'll make the bumper work. He said the car had been pulled before and that it had been hit in the front from the drivers side. The dimensions of the factory diagram are "more like guidelines anyway..." the tension rod sockets were different from the diagram by 10mm but both were even and he said they hadn't moved. Also the shock towers were 10mm higher than the diagram. There evidently were some fairly large tolerances on frame assembly as long at it was all even. Charles

If I read their web pages correctly F-102 is for all Nissan models up to 1989. I like the idea but I hadn't heard of them before... Charles