Patcon

The one with the holes is the inner rocker panel, Panel, sill inner 76410-E8800 passengers & 76411-E4600 drivers . At one time they were available. To make these repairs you will need to strip the car, no engine or transmission, strip the interior and pull the harness out of the car. The less weight the better and less to catch fire. Then you will have to support the car really well. You could probably do one side at time, but you will have to be real careful and fit the door several times to make sure the car stays straight. Weld some bars across the inside of the doors and some temporary bars diagonally across the car to help hold it straight. When your done grind they back out

Don't assume anything. You need fuel, spark and air in the proper amounts. I would check for spark first. Then move on to fuel. Check and double check. SteveJ gave good advise about using the factory service manual diagnostics.

If I remember right there are three pieces of metal that run down under the door towards the dog leg. There is the floor pan that turns up on the inside of the rocker panel. There is the inside rocker panel that has the large holes on the inside. Then the outer rocker panel, part of which is seen on the outside of the car and part is concealed under the fenders and doglegs. It would be best is the inner and out rocker panels are continuous from the front to the back. You could cut in splices but they need to be in different areas. don't make any seams in the same places. I don't know who has the sheet metal you need but bear in mind the patch panels will be $2-300 per side plus freight. It won't take long to pay for a better chassis with patch panels. Been there done that...

Congratulations. I would consider $750 a good price. Maybe you just advertised in the right place...

Congrats on the job.

That exhaust is aluminized. It will rust given time. It is not stainless steel and would cost twice as much if it were...

Power doesn't come from pressure!!!! Power comes from fuel! If it flows enough fuel then the pressure is irrelevant. Figure out if it is pumping enough fuel. Do the flow test from the FSM. These are not large engines they don't need a ton of fuel. 30 GPH is overkill.

It's not that plug-n-play. If you want to go turbo you are gonna have to do some more research. You either need everything off a 280zx turbo motor. Sensors, ignition, harness, injectors,ecu, everything or you need to build a standalone system, Megasquirt, Haltech or other. The fuel maps in the 300zx ECU won't work properly for your setup...

I tend to be a glutton for punishment but that car needs a lot of metal. I hope you get to spend a lot of quality time with your grand parents.

My wife is from Fredericksburg, Texas so we make it back that way once a year or so.

The pressure on the 8016 is sufficient. The real question is flow. Nobody specifies how much that pump flows. You need to do a flow test and calculate how much fuel it flows. It may or may not be a fuel issue. Mark is right there are other possibilities.

There were several sets sold on ebay for $100 or so. They were pretty rough. There were also several rebuilt sets complete with linkage and factory air cleaners that sold for $400 - $500+ dollars

I love beer and steak is good too. I like road trips too. You never know... Looked it up. It's only 37 hours each way

I understand. I saw the vendor at the peoples choice show. He had a few units still in the paper. I look forward to meeting another Texan...

That's great. Are you done yet??!

That's a great piece and $50 was a good price. I can think of several cars that could benefit from that piece. The swiss cheese low number car someone is redoing here on the forum or Blue's low number car, depending on if he needs it...

Wheee! You look like you have a good size welder. That will make your life easier too.

I don't own any Clecos but they would work. The 1/4" zip screws like heating and air contractors use work great, are cheap, no predrilling and you end up with a small hole to fill either way. I use a magnetic 1/4" bit holder so it can be set with one hand, leaving the other hand free for panel placement. For what a few Clecos cost you could buy several hundred zip screws and the bit holder.

Moelk Did you see this http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47109-chinese-dcoe-130/ Would love to know how they work...

Lon, Were you in Memphis? I would hate to think I failed to meet anyone else besides Cliff...

The last 240z I had stripped cost me like $900. I would do that all day long before I would spend 40 plus hours in paint stripper. I found my blaster by asking at my local automotive paint supply. They gave me a list and I started calling people and seeing where they work. This particular blaster does work for the local Mopar restorer who is doing 6 digit cars. If they trust him with that expensive iron my Z will be ok.

Find a vendor in your area that supplies media to the local blasters. I know my guy locally and he has products like Amber blast in multiple grits. That guy will be the best resource for finding the right media for your project and equipment. Just remember even with a booth the dust goes every where, sort of like drywall dust. Let us know how it goes...

Normally the number engraved on the car is the most important VIN number it supersedes all removable plates. I agree with CO on what happened. Leave the DMV alone, don't beat on that hornets nest. Get plates that match the title and move on.

I can't take credit for that. I have the Kevin Tetz videos and that is how he recommends fitting panels. Rough cut them, then overlay and screw in place then when you finish cut them they are the perfect size and ready to weld in

I would pull the front fenders so you can look for rust at the inside bottom where they collect mud also the front of the rockers can have holes too. I would remove everything from the engine bay. The lines can be unbolted and pulled to middle so the engine bay can be painted. Don't disassemble more than you have to. Take the straightest path to a nice driveable car...