Patcon

That would work and be strong but it is twice the welding so twice as much heat and or time. Your welder is son or son in law? ask him what he thinks. I suspect the butt welds would be child's play for anyone who welds for a living. I actually find the welding to be the easy part it's the grinding that seems like work...

Good luck. If you find a car you're interested in feel free to post up pictures and get some feedback on condition and value

Ospho, or some of the other phosphoric acid solutions should work for that. I came back before priming and seam sealed all of the joints I could get to

Leave the brake switch. you could add a light on the dash or in one of the gauges. The switch will turn the light on if one of the braking circuits fails. its always good to know when only half of your brakes are working.

The "After Blast" dries hard if you don't wipe it down. I spray it on out of a windex bottle. Let it sit a few minutes then wipe it down, no washing. The metal turns purplish blue so I know it is phosphating any rusted areas. Then I shoot epoxy when I get ready, then body filler, more epoxy if needed, then on to high build primer and blocking, then finish paint

I have 4 or 5 engines on cradles like that in the shop. I buy the wheels at harbor freight and can move them around as needed

Zerk fitting and grease is a good idea

I didn't find it difficult but that's me. I cut both panels at once and that leaves a perfect gap for welding...

Site What breed is that?

Yes I would say the proportioning valve is gone

Can you plug some of the ports and blow it down onto the bench? You could probably even connect the end circuit back to it and push it out with fluid. Messy, but it would probably work. Are you sure there is nothing holding it in the middle where the electrical plug goes? I googled "Datsun brake switch valve" looked at images. They may help but I am not sure which one you have... If you have everything out of the ports I would say corrosion is holding it in...

A ladies mind can be a scary place best avoided if at all possible...

Eastwood is an acid for sure, you can smell it, but gets sticky like urethane if you let it sit too long, don't know what all is in it. It does work good though.

Yes. the contacts get burnt. try the search for one of the switch rebuild threads. There are some that have very good pictures. Headlight relays and parking lights relay are a good idea to protect the switch from the high current draws...

Butt weld. Do it right the first time and forget it. plus like Chuck said no edge to collect debris...

Wheee! the picture in post #427, the reinforcement plate right above the frame rail is gonna have a hole behind it. I did sort of what ksechler did by shooting Eastwood internal frame rail coating in every space I could find until it ran out every where. I even shot it inside the concealed areas in the hood Consigli summed it up pretty well acid dip gets all of it but must be neutralized well, typically costs more. Media blasting is more common but can damage a car if they get careless. My blaster used sand on the car I am doing now. It is hard to get all the media out of the car. Wheee! If you blast to clean metal get some "After Blast" from Eastwood. Spray it on wipe it down, the metal will store for years if its kept dry and won't flash rust. If you use self etching primer you can't use epoxy and vice versus. After talking to the guys at the paint supply they advised me to go epoxy. It's tougher, sticks better and is more water resistant.

that may be ok too...

It's a small, not my size. Couldn't own it if I can't wear it...

Reply, reply, reply I would go look at it but it's too far, seems like a good price for any sort of complete car that's not swiss cheese...pull it together a little and flip it if you need to

I have not heard good things about black dragon fenders..don't know on the hood unless it has the louvered vent holes

I am not sure Outdoorsman is still monitoring this. It would be nice to resolve the issue just to know what it was...

How much are you asking for the 70 240z? What is the vin number of the car? Thanks, Charles Vin was HLS30-02675 $2k and it's all yours or make an offer

I agree with Zed Head. While most of this 280 EFI is out of my expertise, if it won't run on ether then the issue is not fuel related. Ignition timing, spark or plugs provided compression is good. Is your valve adjustment good?

Better want them bad though...

The epoxy primer is very tough and sticks really well, plus if you stay with the same manufacturer you don't have compatibility issues. I wouldn't base coat clear the bottom of the car unless it's need to make your paint look correct. I would single stage the bottom and base/ clear what matters. When I jambed out my car, I sprayed the engine bay, interior, door jambs and inside of the hatch with single stage and will shoot base / clear on the exterior. Base clear costs more than single stage.