Patcon

16 inch Rota RB's +4

Sixteen inch Rota RB's +4 15" might actually clear. It'd be close

I saw that. I thought the same thing when he made the ball joint. Just crazy! He also had to make two of the receivers he used for case hardening the ball joints and I suspect he had to make the fixture he used to mil the elliptical grooves in the ball joint heads!

Ive never seen that early water pump. How did you source it?

I would trim the qtr window one back. Maybe even at an angle. Do it in small steps until you like the results

16 inch RB's

I can get one with the rims. They don't have rubber yet

Still not on the road yet. Hope to be early 2025. We'll see...

I also used a straight pick in the screw holes to help pry it into place and line up the screw holes. They can be difficult to get in properly. I would use some of the Precision sealant lube. Do not use silicone on painted surfaces. It's is very difficult to get off later if paint work needs to be done.

I was going to look but hadn't gotten back to the shop yet, sorry...

I was buying a number of other things and with my lack of free time I appreciate not having to make another trip. Also my local Nissan dealer is a pain just like my local BMW dealership so I work around both of them with online resources

I have another thread documenting the Wilwood rear brake install I did. In this thread I am going to document the front disc install. I am using the Wilwood Dynalights. The discs are the same front and back but the swept area of the pad is different. The front discs have also been drilled to match the bolt pattern of the hub. The new front calipers are very light. All aluminum. Here it is compared to the Toyota caliper Here is the starting point for my front brakes. I did have the Toyota caliper on and the dust shields have been trimmed Hub has to come off Then the dust shield needs to come off Then remove the bolts from the hub and swap rotors A brass hammer might be helpful to get every thing lined up and seated Everything on the Wilwoods seems to be SAE so there are two different bolts in the kit. The two metric bolts for bolting the adapter to the strut ears and the two SAE bolts for attaching the caliper to the adapter plate The Silvermine logo appears to face outward on these adapters When I first bolted this side up, it bound up against the rotor. So I had to add some washers to space it back a little bit. The metric bolts have plenty of length so that wasn't an issue. I didn't have any pretty washers to use so I used these. Also I had to trim the upper washer because the OD was too large to center over the hole All together It is easier to add the washers when installing the adapter if you know you'll need to I guess you could install it with washers and you don't need them you can drop them out. It's a lot easier to drop them out than get them in and centered over the bolts. This install is on an early series one car. Your mileage might vary...

So over Thanksgiving when Cody and I were working on the car. We were trying to get it ready for startup. Maybe Christmas, we'll see. We were working on getting the alternator on. Well when you change to the 240z water pump and damper that means the alternator doesn't line up anymore... 😞 So we got out the cut off wheels I cut this off the front and dressed it out and move d it to the rear with a washer. In the future we might make a more elegant solution, but for now it works Another problem we created with the 240z water pump is the 510 fan doesn't fit anymore and there's not enough room for a 240z setup. So these ribs inside the fan prevent it from fitting down against the pulley So more air tools I dressed them up nicely and lightly bead blasted it. I had to make the center hole larger by free-handing it. I also had to add 4 new bolts holes because the bolt pattern is different I had to order longer studs from BelMetric too... Two forward, one back... 😉

I am thinking I will remove the incoming line from the rear brake device and route it straight into the brass union I bought a R200 flange for the driveshaft from Zcardepot. Looks like it will work good. Here it is next to the old flange I also bought a new rear diff mount. I suspect these are available straight from Nissan

I'm not sure we filled the oil pump? I will probably start there. I'm not sure we filled the filter either. So I may try those two before I pull the spindle. Thanks for the offer Captain 😉

I use to be 6'-5" and never had that issue with the wheel. I agree, the seat seems to be really close to the wheel. Are the seat rails all the way against the floor bracket? Metal to metal? No plastic spacers in the way?

So at Thanksgiving Cody and I tried to prime his engine using a battery and a jump box. Eventually the battery ran down. So today I used my diesel F350 and jumper cables. I cranked it and cranked it. Even in the cold temperatures the starter got warm and I never got flow on the camshaft. So I am going to need to prime it with a drill. Does anyone offer a premade priming spindle? I might have any extra quill somewhere and could DIY something but was wondering if a premade solution existed?

Btw, I wasn't suggesting for you to go solid lifter. I was thinking there might be some hydraulic ones available at hybrid Z from them going to solid lifter

You could try something like Rislone. I use it in my BMW's sometimes when the valvetrain is noisy

You might also have success at hybridZ. Many convert their heads to solid pivot heads

Do you have a part number?

I couldn't find his number and Zedfindings didn't bring up a website

https://m.facebook.com/ZeddFindings/ Im not sure Charlie is still selling pans

I'm glad you've got a solution going. I know a half dozen or so people that have had knee replacement in the last couple of years. All of them much better off shortly after surgery. Here's to a quick recovery!

What are the differences in the gas door lids?