jfa.series1

I've got the same system and install method, haven't noticed any heat problems (maybe I'm not looking hard enough ). It looks like you have all of it pulled up pretty tight against the body, thus your clearance comment. Work with the hangers to drop the muffler a bit - this will give better clearance around the valance and possibly improve air circulation. And... yes it is a noisy muffler. Many have added a 2" glass-pak upstream.

Have you made a speedo cable firewall grommet? They are NLA and typically are not furnished with replacement cables. I still have my original cable but the grommet has gone the way of most old rubber!

A Z club in CT posted the VIN obtained from the MA police: HLS30-52858

I have the sales brochure from 2/70, the gearshift knob appears to have the shift pattern on it and there is no sign of a pattern plate anywhere on the console.

One more thing you might try before reassembling everything: soak the threads around the gland nut in a good penetrant at least overnight. Apply some heat to the strut tube all around the gland nut, after getting it nice and hot tap that same area with a hammer, and try that big ol' pipe wrench one more time.

That's a Series 2 hatch on the car. A VIN check could confirm the model year.

The OE steering rod coupler went back in today and that wraps up this set of changes. Tomorrow is Cars & Coffee for the Dallas area and some of our Z Club of Texas group will be making a back roads lunch run up to Dennison for some BBQ. This will give me a good opportunity to get some butt feel for the recent bushing swaps. A trip report will be forthcoming.

Now you tell me! Just kidding. As one of our members said at the tech session, swapping out the steering rack bushings is not going to make up for the solid eccentric bushings in the control arms - some harshness is still going to get directly transmitted to the subframe. With just a few miles on the car since the changes, I can tell that the T/C rod bushing swap has improved front end ride quality. With the rack and coupler changes I'm looking to reduce snap that feeds up to the steering wheel.

I didn't. I'm going to re-use my original which is still in excellent condition.

Page ST-15 on the '72 FSM shows a location to install a zerk fitting at the pinion housing - it looks to be on the underside. This model also had the grease reservoir on the right side, easily replaced with a zerk fitting. This all may have changed by the time the '76 models came out.

Definitely an oldie AND goodie, same as the one on my car and I know it is original. Get a yellow zinc replate job and it will really look sharp. Re. the comment on the missing chain, on this model the chain is inside the filler tube when the cap is in place.

Gawd, I luv it when you guys talk dirty! (Thanks)

On the lift at a club tech session yesterday to get more poly bushings swapped out for rubber. The inner rear control arms were changed as was the steering rack. With eccentric bushings on the front control arms I won't get a lot of improvement up front but at least some of the snap in the steering wheel goes away. I can tell the difference already with the T/C rods and rear control arms now changed. The steering rod will also get swapped back to rubber in the next few days.

I was able to negotiate a reduced price on a wheel and tire pkg. at Discount 2 yrs. ago and used my own credit card. At the time they were also running a sales tax "holiday" promotion and BFG was running a rebate. So I hit three markdowns/saves in one deal.

In picture 1, that is commonly referred to as a moustache bar, Nissan refers to it as a compression member - differential. Picture 2 is just a half-shaft U-joint. The moustache bar has a big rubber bushing pressed in at each end, yours may be well worn from track stresses. Swapping them out is a bit of a PITA. There should be no play in any U-joint - driveshaft or half-shaft.

Yep - you found the culprit. Those nylon rollers keep everything lined up in the tracks and your earlier pictures confirm how they lost alignment. You'll probably have to locate another regulator since they held in place by a permanent post.

A bit more info - the plastic bag for the kit shows it to be made in Japan (no surprise there) and has a P/N of 2749099. Not a Nissan-style # but possibly from one of their long time OEM's. Lucky for us that AC Delco chose to pick it up for re-packaging.

Carl, The kit is as shown but not the T/C rod or boot. The price is $10.46 per side before the typical 5% discount and shipping. Look it up by the # 45G25036, it does not come up by our car models. Jim

Today I started the process to get rid of polyurethane bushings and return to OE-style rubber. First off was the T/C rods using the AC Delco kit another member so kindly identified and available from our friends at RockAuto. A club tech session next weekend will see the rear LCA and steering rack bushings going back to rubber. I am really looking forward to a more civilized ride!

Good to meet you Eric. That GT-6+ sounds pretty neat - they share a lot of common lines with the Z, sort of a 7/8 scale version. We'll be looking for your pics.

Hey Ericg, Welcome to the Series 1 club. To paraphrase some famous defenders of our country - we are the few, the proud, the old! The comments above all clarify the series and likely build period of your car. And yes, we really do want to be see some pics of your new ride and here some more about its condition and your plans for it.

Not used with my car, they came with later models.

You can completely rebuild and assemble the front suspension off the car then install it as a single unit while the engine is out. Use a floor jack to slowly raise it to position as you get the T/C rods and strut tops into position. I was able to do this single-handed but it is certainly a bit easier with another person to help.

Understand that a car project is never "done", "finished", or whatever other term of completion that comes to mind. Nice looking ride and nice pics!

Any reports on the condition of the 'roo???