beermanpete

The cone filter is made of oiled cloth and can be cleaned, reoiled, and reused. The stock filter is paper and cannot be reused. K&N is the main (original?) company making the cone type of filter. There are copies, of course. K&N claims thier filter does not restric air flow as much as the paper types when they get full of dirt.

Thesea re the heater hoses. 5/8" if I recall correctly. I think there is a bit 3/4" hose as well. Take the pieces with you to the parts store and match up the sizes. This type of hoes is typically sold per foot.

You won't have any better luck using M12 all-thread. You need to use a larger thread to get enough strength to press out the spindle. The other poster said he is using 3/4" threaded shaft. I figure he drilled and threaded one end with the M12 thread and then threads it onto the M12 thread on the spindle.

We tried this as sell. All we did was ruin the threads. Part of the problem, in our case, was the cross-pins had raised burrs on the spindles which caused too much interference to get them out easily.

I agree with Steve. An off-idle stumble is likely due to a lean idle mixture or a problem with the accelerator pump(s).

Not exactly. The radio is designed to tolerate a reactive load. How does connecting the speakers in series change the load to a non-inductive or non-reactive load? The "crossover" is not a crossover anyhow, it is a transformer which matches the impedance of the load to the source. When transformers are used in their linear range (as it would be for this application) they will not add or subtract any reactance, the reactance of the load is simply presented to the source in its normal form but with the magnitude altered according to the transformer's turns ratio.

I agree that a series connection is not ideal but since 8-ohm speakers don't seem to common any longer it is a workable option. It will not hurt the radio. The worst problem will be the decoupling of each speaker from the output of the power amp and therefor soft bass. Does that really matter here? Another option is using a 4-ohm resistor in series with each 4-ohm speaker and then paralleing the pair, resulting in a 4-ohm load on the radio. The bass will still suffer a bit however. A better solution might be using a "booster" amp that is designed to be driven by the speaker output of the radio. This will present a suitable load to the radio and isolate the radio from the speakers allowing the possability of more power and tolerance to a 2-ohm load. The booster amp could easily be hidden under a seat or in the dash to preserve the factory look.

You can connect 2 4-ohm speakers in series. This will result in an 8-ohm load which will not damage the radio. It will reduce the total power output but the acoustic output of 2 speakers is better and will offset it some.

The older O2 sensors are voltage generating and will drive a high impedance meter (DMM) directly. The pitfall is they are narrow band and don't provide much info outside the ideal mixture range. Some of these type of sensors have a built in heater and the heater requires power. The newer sensors require power for internal functions as well as a heater. They still output a voltage that is representative of the air/fuel mixture and can be read using a voltmeter. Some info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor and here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio_meter The easy thing to is buy a purpose built wideband O2 air/fuel meter that is designed to install in the dash of your car as an accessory. The cheaper ones are not too expensive, about $200 I think. Otherwise, go to the auto part store and buy an O2 sensor from just about any late model car and it should do what you want after you do a bit of work to cobble together the wiring to power it.

We have 225/50R15 on 15x7 wheels on our 73 240Z and they fit fine without rubbing. The wheels are 0 offset. Using the 15x8.5 wheel may yield a slightly wider cross-section. Changing the struts and/or springs will not change the tire fit unless you go to coilovers or section the struts.

I wouldn't paint the drums. Mine have no indication they were painted by the factory. The affects on heat removal will depend on what type of paint you use, how well you prep the drums, and how well the paint adheres. If you ever get the brakes really hot the paint will likely burn off anyhow.

There is no left/right shaft and there is no issue with indexing them. If I remember correctly the bolt holes are on a rectangle so you have to make sure all the holes line up but that is it. Intsall the shaft so the end that is larger in diameter is toward the differential.

Delrin is a thermoplastic and will soften and melt. As it softens the mechanical strength reduces. This could allow the fuel rail to move, the plastic could run out, etc. Garolite is a thermoset plastic and does not melt. It could fail due to heat in other ways but won't melt. The G-7 and G-11 types are rated for much higher heat than Delrin, Nylon, and other common plastics. Since cost is an issue maybe a handle from an old pot or other cookware could be donated to the cause. A lot of these are made from Bakalite and similar materials.

There is a return spring on the clutch pedal, it will come back up without the engine or trans in the car. Low fluid can prevent clutch release but will not cause clutch slip. When you say you can shift into gear without pressing the clutch is the engine running? If so, you need a clutch. If not it does indicate anything. Most syncromesh cars will shift into gear without the clutch when the engine is off (and the car is not moving).

We bypassed all this on our car with no apparent problems. The only consequence is it takes a long time to warm up enough to be drivable. For a track car this is not an issue, for a street car it can be annoying when in a hurry. I do not remember the thread sizes.

The common test is to ground the wire(s) that connect to the sender units one at a time. The corresponding gauge should go to full reading pretty quickly. If the gauge responds then the sending unit is bad. If not the meter is either bad or there is a wiring problem. There is no sending unit for the voltmeter. It simply connects to the battery through the ignition switch.

I think the Garolite G-11 or G-7 would handle the heat better. http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite/=ehxk7v http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite/=ehxlnr

How often does your baloney sandwich fail mid-flight?

Goodridge makes DOT approved steel braided brake lines. Here is a link to one vendor: http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/goodridge-g-stop-brake-lines

We have used all your sizes on our 73 without any rubbing. It really depends on the offset fo your wheels. Zero offeset seems to be commonly used and centers the wheel and tire between the spring perch and fender/wheel arch. We have used 225/50R25 without rubbing.

There is particular optimum length. We have the battery in back of the car and use 1/0 wire running to the starter. If you use typical battery cables (which are 4 gauge) then the shorter the better. As the length increases the wire gauge needs to increase to keep the voltage drop while cranking to an acceptable level.

There is 1 wire going from the negative coil terminal to the terminal on the side of the distributor. The condenser connected here with a short black wire as well. The terminal goes through the distributor housing and connects to the points with a short wire. The feed-though on the distributor should be insulated from the distributor housing. As has been said, the negative terminal on the coil should be 0 volts when the points are closed and +12 volts when the points are open. Measure this with respect to ground, not the positive battery terminal. If the voltage is always 0 you have a short, incorrect wiring, bad condenser, or the points are adjusted wrong. If the voltage is always +12 the points are not closing or the wire going to the distributor is not connected. The green/white wire connects to the ballast resistor. On the same terminal there should be a black/white wire. The other terminal on the ballast resistor should have a black/white wire. If the 2 black/white wires are reversed the car will run but the starter bypass won't work possibly making the car hard to start.

The motorcycle guys use a clamp-on tool called a cable luber for lubing the cables. You can buy it at most motorcylce shops. Use it with an aerosol spray lube of your choice. Should work with the cables still in the car.

Awesome! It sounds like you guys had a great time overall. Are you using the Falken Azenis RT-615? We have been thinking of trying them.

Why does the passenger side switch have left hand threads?