Gary in NJ

Agreed. POR (Paint Over Rust) has a product that is well liked here. Oh, and welcome.

Don't you know you're never supposed to sell, only buy

Where in PA is the car? Maybe someone can look at the car with you.

I like the motor and the seats.

If you need the parts they are worth whatever the seller will take. If you just want them, they are worth as little as you can pay for them. Are you looking to purchase just the parts you mentioned or the parts plus the two cars? If just the parts, offer $300 and go to $500. If you are looking to buy the full lot, offer $500 and be willing to go $1,000 to "take the whole mess off his hands." Here's a hint; don't show up in your Z, act like your not to sure what you're looking at. Do you have photo's of the cars? That'd go a long way in putting a value on them.

aj, You are correct, I have the lever, not the knob. Rather then guess at all of this, I will remove the seat and have a good look-see to determine the exact cause of the problem. In any event, it sounds like an easy fix.

I've never had the seats out, nor did I do the recover, so I don't know the answer to any of those questions. But I will. When I have the car apart for winter maintenance I'll pull the drivers seat and see what lies within.

I'm only 170 pounds, but when I sit on the drivers seat the springs sag-out and the cushion drops quite a bit. Is this a function of the springs, the padding, or both. The vinyl on my seats is in very good condition so I hate to rip 'em apart, but I would like a little support from the seats. Any suggestions?

JT - I just visited your Garage. Your car is glorious.

The problem is, you no longer have a Z. Once you swap-out the engine the expertise of the Z mechanic does little to help you. Your best bet is to find someone that knows your conversion is over at hybridz.com

Anyone that makes vinyl graphics should be able to make them for you if you give them the dimensions. They'll usually apply them for you too.

16mm (not 19) on the front, which is just 2 more mm then the 70/71. Or looking at it from another perspective, two full turns on the mixture knob.

You are aware that on the 1972 cars the float heights are different. On a '72 you set the rear carb float height to 12mm and the front to 16mm. This is per Nissan TS73-10 dated February 9, 1973. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=255145&postcount=3

That's very cool, indeed. Regarding the fog-light switch, on my '71, I got a spare toggle switch and installed it in the cigarette lighter location. It looked quite natural.

Enrique, Excellent reading from the archives. Did the double parking light switch from Kats work? Did you install the system in your Z?

In the '72 FSM that information is found on page GI-4.

According to my '72 FSM, the wheelbase is 2,305mm (90.7in).

The idea isn't so far fetched. In the aircraft industry we will fog an airframe for corrosion prevention. The product is called ACF-50.

Now there's a thread that should be started.

That looks like a good candidate for a restore. Unless you find a show-stopper, I wouldn't part it out.

Good to know Rick. I'll put that info in my mental rolodex and hope that I never need to make that call.

I'm in the area of NJ without exit numbers, the great NW Skylands region. If the NJ Z club has a meeting in September, I'm gonna do my best to make it.

Did you buy -00400?

Ask at this forum you'll get the "L" answer. Ask at hybrid Z and you'll get the "V8" answer. In the end it's your decision. If you put in a Datsun motor, you can always do a conversion. If you do a conversion, it's a PIA to go back. If it was me, I'd build a big motor L24. The straight 6 has great character and sounds wonderful when opened up.

Having never experienced an earthquake, I can't imagine the confusion and horror. Best of luck to you, your family, and your countrymen.