jcb

I used weatherstrip sold by Lowes Home center. I think it was 3/8 thick and 1/2 wide. Seemed to work just fine. JB

Captain, Thanks from me too. I have tried to figure out why it was so important to have the car on the ground before tightening those nuts. After your explanation it became, I hate to say it but I will, OBVIOUS. I could not resist. Thanks again for the lesson John

Chas, Heet is a fuel line anti freeze and will remove water from the tank. You can buy in the states for a couple of bucks for enough for one tank of fuel. Probably a lot higher in Europe though. I have been going to ask if you were able to refill the tire air-up bottle? Hope so. JB

Thanks Leon, I am going to make sure it's not in there. Hopefully I can find it but if not I feel ok with cutting a new one. Thanks again, JB

Leon, I thought it had to be in there also but so far nothing. I tried reaching in with my finger but could not feel anything. I tried a bent coat hanger but got nothing. I am going to try to cut one. How thick and how hard do you think the rubber for the disk should be?? Any estimate is better than what I know about the thing as I have never seen one. Thanks for the reply and any info you have about the disk. JB

Looks like I will need to cut a disk out of some rubber. It would help me greatly if someone out there can tell me how hard the disk should be. Pictures look like it is hard rubber with no "give" to it. Any advice?? thanks JB

Diseazd, Sorry to say your vacuum idea did not work for me. I will tell you why. I have removed the booster and I find that there is not a disk in there. Only thing I can think is that the PO for some reason some how lost it. If anyone looking at this thread has a used disk I would buy it. I know that Blue says to cut one and I will if I can't find a used one.

That is what I have had going on. About the top 2/3 of the pedal travel nothing happens/ I have worn out the adjusters on the rear brakes and put brake fluid companies on overtime trying to bleed the air out. I hope to get the disk out without removing the booster but will do that if I have to. I guess the disk has been missing since day one (for me) since I replaced every thing but the master cyl and could never get a full pedal. Then I replaced the master cyl and still had the same problem. Thanks everybody for all the good advise. JB

Thanks again for the info. I will try again to fish it out and if not I plan to pull the booster. I don't think it would hurt to be left in there but I want it out. I still don't understand what role it plays. Anyway thanks for the help. I'll let you know the outcome. JB

Thanks Blue and Deseazd, Both good ideas I had not considered. If the vacuum cleaned does not work, how thick do you think the rubber should be? I picture it about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. What do you guys think?? Also I wonder what role the thing plays as far as how the booster works. Thanks again for the replies, JB

I decided my reaction disk had slipped. I have the master cyl off , booster still on the car. I can not locate the disk. Any suggestions on fishing it out would be appreciated before I pull the booster. Thanks JB

I used KYB inserts and also debated the use of oil. I looked at the gland nut and since there is not a seal on the KYB unit decided not to fill with oil. I did put a oz or two in the housing to keep it from rusting. Been about a year and no problem that I can see. I was concerned that if filled the oil might leak out and would make a mess. This advice and $2 will get you a small soft drink, maybe.

I had the same problem when redoing the interior with new door panels. As Mark and Charles both pointed out the problem was the door panel thickness and or the hole size in the panel. As I remember I enlarged the hole size and also removed some material around the hole and then pushed like hell on the window crank.

Out recent weather is typical for Amarillo but also extreme. Last Thursday night 4" of snow. Friday 30* F. Sat it hit 65* and snow all gone. Sun was freezing fog and now 10 am Mon it's snowing. As they say around here " if you don't like the weather, just wait an hour and it will be different".

Hey zhead, I feel your pain and I'm in Texas. Not as cold as you I'm sure but it's -11 F wind chill here in the Panhandle. I am older than you so it hurts me a little more now. Put that dam fence back up. I was playing golf this time last year. John

I like the way Fastwoman said it " A refreshingly civil place ". I have visited other Z sites and did not like them because of the " I'm smarter than you " attitude of some of the people that use those sites. Thanks Mike, JCB

The only question I feel smart enough to ask " How much money will this sell for?"

I noticed he has over 21,000 sales on E-Bay. I forget who said "There's a sucker born every minute" or something like that but it's true. I look back and think of some of the stupid things I let happen to me. Live and learn and do your home work.

Fast woman, Thank you so much. Great tutorial for all to read. I have ordered the potentiometer and will check the other items you mentioned. Thanks again for the reply. JB

Thanks FastWoman for posting this info. I had planed to PM you about what you had used for this upgrade. My understanding of things electrical is limited so my next question is this. Do you need to use a meter to adjust or can I just use the trial and error method? My car (stock 78/280z ) is sometimes hard to start the first time in the day. Pops back thru the intake and does not want to run. Most times it starts right up. Sorry to ramble on and not intending to highjack the thread. Thanks

Want to be sure this set of specs for aliment is the same for a 78/280z. Thanks JB

Ericg, Welcome to the site, I know you will enjoy it. If you still have the side trim I need a piece that goes on the door. If you want to sell it let me know. Thanks JB

I noticed that you did not use any strut boots or did I miss something. Just wondering??

I have replaced all bushings and struts and the diff mount. This job is too hard to not get it right so... I have read the FSM and all the posts I could find but am still not sure of the correct procedure to tighten the bolts for the transverse link brackets. Should I torque the vertical bolts to spec or just snug before putting the wheels on the ground. Also does the car need to be level when I torque the horizontal bolts. I need to put ramps under the rear wheels to gain access for the final tightening. I hope this post makes sense. Thanks for any and all advise. JB

Joe, . Thanks for the reply. Black Dragon lists 71 thru 78 as the same. I can order from BD but kind of high $, hoping you can save me some money. Thanks JCB