steve91tt

Has anyone tried rebuilding an ignition switch? My switch is starting to get flakey. I have to wiggle my key sometimes to get my heater fan to work. I was hoping to take mine apart and clean it up if possible. Anybody done this before?

Some states such as Texas allow you to run with plates from the year of manufacture of the vehicle. I think the 1973 Texas plates look much better than the gaudy modern plates.

I feel for you.:disappoin The good news is that its easy to get a nice 73 Texas plate on ebay.

Wow. Incredible looking z! Welcome.

The electrics have a small shroud built in and if you mount them flush with the radiator then the air that they move will flow directly through the core. Mechanical fans have a much larger air gap between the blades and the radiator. With this sort of setup there is more chance for air to be pulled in from the sides when the car is traveling at speeds less than 30 MPH.

Perfect! thanks.

Is 14mm the size of the opening in the diff cover? If so then the R180 is considerably smaller. The larger part of the vent is about 14mm but it steps down in size before going into the cover.

I did pull the tube and I thought that there was a hole on either side of the bottom of the tube that line up with either end of the arrow, if that makes sense. I'll pull the tube when I get a chance this weekend and flip it around so that the arrow points the other way.

nice Z!

I purchased a champion from Ebay. The first one that was delivered leaked very badly. I sent it back and the new one they sent leaked slightly. You get what you pay for.

The vent is symmetric back to front so the arrow pointing front is the same as it would be pointing back.

Absolutely agree.

Just a quick update... I swapped slide, dome, needle, damper and spring front to back on the 28th. I really thought that the issue was solved as the car drove perfectly until today when the front slide stuck once again on my way home from work. This proves that the issue has to be in the bottom part of the front carb. I spoke to Z Therapy and they are going to ship a new front carb out to me ASAP.

Nope, just redid the diff gasket and filled it up with gear oil.

That is an excellent idea! I'll give it a whack.

Good thing I went with royal purple. Adds an artistic splash of color to an otherwise dull concrete slab

Less talk...more car pictures!

Interesting, I definitely put the kick plate back on but I don't remember having any issues with it. I'll check more closely this evening.

Good that makes it easy. When my wife stops complaining about the smell of gear oil in the garage its time to fill up the diff.:classic:

I guess if the wind blows the oil around a bit back there it can be a form of rust protection.

I have both the vent and cap and both look to be in good condition. I created a dime size oil spot on the floor after I drove it the first time. That seems like a lot.

FSM calls for 1 quart. I was only able to get about 90% of that in before it started dribbling out.

On the stock distributor there are two advancement adjustments and I assume the ZX dizzy is similar. There is one on the distributor itself, accessed from below the distributor. there is also one that clocks the distributor with the base IRRC. When I bought my car it was all the way advanced on the side adjustment at 4°. I had to move the second adjustment beneath to get it into spec. You may have a similar issue with the new ZX dizzy.

I recently changed the gasket on my differential and ever since I have had a leak from the vent. I removed the vent, cleaned and replaced it with the arrow pointing to the rear for the car. The Royal Purple 75W90 gear lube is level with the bottom of the filler plug with the car sitting on the ground. There is definitely oil coming out the top of the vent after just a few miles of normal driving. Anyone else had this issue?

I installed a fuel pump cut switch to eliminate the battery drain issue caused by the ZXP alternator upgrade plug on 1973 cars. See link... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php? t=39259 I just cut the yellow wire leading to the fuel pump solenoid and rerouted the plug side to a hidden switch which is connected to fused ignition power. I left the mechanical pump in place and plan to only use the electric when it's necessary due to under hood heat. I won't use it much at all but its nice to know it's there if I ever need it.