tanny

The problem is, Cuong, most humans take great satisfaction in belonging to a group(religions, sports, countries, ethnic, 240z clubs, etc, etc, etc) and it is human nature to feel that your group is the proper or best group to be a part of, and anyone else's group is squat. Makes life really interesting(patriotism, war, religious strife, gang killings, racism, sports, car model elitism, blah, blah, blah). What fun would we have if there wasn't all this friendly competition between groups? Go Fiat!! Go Yugo!! Go Lucas electrics(well, maybe not). Victor.

I just had my 240 painted at MAACO and did a little of the prep work myself. Cost was $600 for urethane paint and $100 of that was for repair of crease in hatch metal. No clear coat. The paint job was not very satisfactory, with plenty of orange peel on all vertical surfaces. What little paint chip repair they did was really poor. The repair looked worse than the paint chip. The top, hood, and hatch came out fine. You definitely get what you pay for. However, The car looks much better than before and the job was adequate for what I wanted. If I did it over again, I would have done 100% of the prep work myself before I took it in to be painted. Victor.

When I looked into my tank, I'm pretty sure the baffle has some clearance underneath it so the gasoline will be baffled but can still move to either side of the baffle. Victor.

Run some 12 volt power to the pump directly and see if it works. If it does, then you get to trace the bad connection. Victor.

Ebay is definitely hit or miss on everything. Plenty of outright lying. I won a glove box door with "good" hinges and received one with two hinges totally broken and the last hinge only half attached. Even sent him pictures of how it arrived. Asked the guy for refund but got threatening email calling me an a**hole(he was trying to intimidate me into not giving him a negative feedback). After I gave him the negative feedback, he retaliated with a negative feedback on me. Now I strictly stick to sellers who have long histories and very high positive feedback percentage. Unfortunately, if you're looking for rare items, you often have no choice. Victor.

"Gonna git me one a them fancy clear coat jobs jes like them rich people's new fangled cars." Actually that was spray starch and he was trying to stiffen the chassis. Victor. Ps Whenever my father saw some genetic failure like that, he'd say," the worst part is knowing that there are people like that all over the roads, whizzing by you in the opposite direction at 75 mph with only a couple of feet between you and one of their god awful decisions."

Thanks for the info. I did install the heat shield(made mine out of 24 gage sheet metal: probably would have been easier to use the aluminum like you did) and the gas line insulation, but that didn't solve the problem. So yesterday I hooked the gas return line back up and I will see if that has any effect. If not, I'm afraid I'll have to admit I was wrong and start searching for electrical problems. Just doesn't point to electrical, but no other choice. Victor.

This brings to mind a question I've had: How do you differentiate between tranny noise and differential noise? I have a very low volume grating noise(worn bearings noise?) when power is applied in any gear. There is no noise when I let off the gas or coast. Thanks, Victor.

I just found a cause for the leak into my floor pan on both sides of the car. When I applied water to the outside of the door, water was getting by the roll up window seal(the flap that clips to the door and presses against the glass at the bottom of the window), dribbling onto the mechanisms inside the door, and making its way down the inside of the door metal underneath the vinyl interior door panel, and then dribbled on down to the floor pan. Apparently someone had taken off the plastic liner between the vinyl door panel and the metal door. I cut up some heavy plastic sheeting and sealed off the access holes in the door and that stopped the leak. Victor.

I was almost certain that the seals on my car had not been replaced since it was used for only 9 years before it was stored. The "clip" I am refering to is integrated with the rubber and comes up over the headliner vinyl( for about 5/16 inch) on the inside of the body flange it attaches to. The metal clip is covered with plastic or vinyl with a roughened or crosshatch pattern. Seems a bit complex to be aftermarket, but I guess it's possible. The VB version has no clip, just a thin rubber flap that comes up the inside of the flange for about 3/16 inch, and looks fairly crappy because it doesn't cover the flange completely and of course supplies no support for the headliner vinyl like the original. Looks really unfinished. I also noticed that the 280 has two different door seal listings in the VB and MSA catalogs. The expensive one for the 74-6/75 and a cheaper one for the 7/75-78. Do you happen to know which specific one works? I'll ask the vendors but I'd rather get some advice from people who have actually put these seals on. Thanks, Victor.

I just installed a driver side main door seal on my 240 that I purchased from VB. It had no metal clip incorporated into it like my original seal. The door is quite hard to close now and it's not sealing worth a damn. It is definitely installed correctly, but is totally unacceptable. I think I remember reading about other people having similar problems. Does anyone know where to order a seal that is the same as the original and that works? If so, do you have a part number? Thanks, Victor

I'm currently in the process of replacing the main door seals. I could see the water where it dribbled down the right and left hand ends of the dash beginning up on the door rubber. Good luck and it would be good to know where your leak originates for future reference. Victor. ps If you have a 240 and should happen to order new door seals, try to get the door seals with the incorporated clip. I got the cheaper one without the clip and I don't think it's going to hold up as well and I had to reglue the headliner vinyl where it fit under the old cip so that it wouldn't hang loose after I installed the new clipless seals.

Unfortunately I am not knowledgeable at all about turbo setups, but I know there has to be people on this site who are, so keep asking your questions. I have no idea if you need the return line for that turbo set up or not, but puting the electric pump on is probably a good idea no matter what. Sorry I'm not more helpful on this subject, Victor.

Better yet, lock a cigar smoker inside the z with 10 boxes of smuggled Cuban cigars, have him light up, then either look for smoke leaking out of any suspect areas or just sniff around all the seals and if you smell something like cat s--t, you know you've found the leak. Victor.

Apparently Datsun installed the electric pump on the 73's for some type of fuel supply problem. Not sure what. I have a 73 and it has both pumps. On my last long trip having both pumps was fortunate because my mechanical pump malfunctioned and the electric kept me going. Victor.

The box fan would just circulate the air inside the car and would not increase the interior pressure. However, you could stick the blower end of a shop vac through the window and seal it and that would definitely blow air out of any leaky areas. Victor.

Is it possible that through some odd aerodynamic eddying that the fumes could creep up along side the body and get sucked into the open window, or has that been definitely eliminated as a source? Doesn't sound likely, but...... Victor.

I just bought a pair of door seals for my 73 from MSA and I noticed that they have no metal clip as has been described in previous posts. All there is is the rubber seal, and I don't see a good way to attach it to the body. Do you have to scrape the old rubber off the old clip and and use it to attach the new seal, or is there a clip that I'm supposed to order to use with the new seal. I don't really see a good way to attach the new seal without a clip so that the headliner vinyl and rubber are both held tightly to the body. Any advice here would be appreciated. Thanks, Victor.

Alan, the fuel goes from the tank, to an inline filter, to the stock electric fuel pump, to the stock filter on the passenger side fender, to the stock mechanical fuel pump, to a fuel pressure regulator, then serialy into each of the three Webers starting with the most forward carb.. The return line is not hooked up and I did cap it off. Yesterday I insulated all of the fuel line from the front passenger side wheel well to the last carb inlet, and tomorrow I will fabricate and install a metal heat shield between the header and the intake/carbs. If that doesn't work, I'll probably have to invest the $80 and try the header blanket. I hate shotgunning this thing, but unless I have a revelation(the gray matter is way to ossified for that to happen), I'll just keep trying stuff. Thanks Alan. Victor. ps I think I'll order some of those carb gaskets and washers.

Thanks Victor. I'll check out that website. I did put the zx coil on and bypassed the resistor. I was just wondering if there was a capacitor associated with the ZX ignition for any reason. I also was wondering: what function does the capacitor serve that is bolted to the voltage regulator and connects into the wire harness on the passenger side wheel well? Thanks, Victor.

Alan, thanks for all the suggestions. I'm afraid I can't give up on the Webers because it is now a battle of wills, and also my only other cheap option is my 73 boat anchors. I did have an excellent mechanic( Jeff Winter of Rally/Sport) in Denver give it a spin and he suggested richer idle jets, which did cure my bogging problem accelerating from a stop. Unfortunately he is 350 miles away and I can't get to him easily. I did rebuild these Webers(thorough disassembly, cleaning, new gaskets, and new inlet valves) and I adjusted float levels as per specs. The floats are the older brass type but are not perforated and weigh exactly what they are supposed to. I really don't think it's electrical. I've run two different coils with no change in the problem and I have cleaned all the connections I can get at in the ignition system. I also tested for spark at all the plugs immediately after it cut out on me the last time and they were firing perfectly. That's when I put some gas directly into the carbs and it started right up and ran find. I don't believe it is a float sticking because if only one float were sticking(more than one sticking at exactly the same time would be almost an impossibility), I think the engine would still run, although badly. I'm almost certain it is fuel related due to the way it dies and then can be restarted after a certain period of time. One thing I am wondering: are the Webers supposed to have an insulator between the carbs and the manifold? Mine just have a normal gasket. Thanks, Victor.

I recently converted my 73 to a 1980 ZX electronic distributor. Has been working well. I assume since there are no points that these electronic distributors have no need for a capacitor. Is that correct, because I didn't notice a capacitor when I took it off the ZX? Thanks, Victor.

Looks like a small amount of effort and money has been put into that engine compartment. Beautiful. Thanks, Victor.

I did insulate a portion of the fuel lines, but not all. Any suggestions on insulating material? I think you're right about it being vapor lock. I'll try insulating all of the engine compartment gas line first, then try the header wrap. Those wraps are pretty expensive, but if it works would be worth it. Victor. The stall has been around since I got the car running. Cool and hot weather makes no difference. Happens while driving around town and while on highway.

I've read where the header wraps can be harmful to the headers. Myth or fact? Thanks, Victor.