Zed Head

Which intake manifold? The intake manifolds changed sometime around 1979 or 80. They actually went to a slightly smaller throat with a different bolt pattern for the 280ZX's. You can't run a 1981 throttle body on a 1978 intake manifold, for example (I have both).

Taking the inside panel off is not hard and will let you see inside the door. The hardest part is popping the plastic hold-downs off and removing the plastic sheeting. The Body chapter of the FSM describes taking the door panel off. Do that and read this Technical Article,or vice-versa. Looks like something broke, maybe one of the bolts on the top of the front of the door. Classic Zcar Club - S30 Door Window Problems and Troubleshooting Procedures

Good luck. Come back with whatever you find out. Word is that you won't find anyone at Tokico to talk to since they're under new ownership and don't have their distribution figured out yet. John Coffey probably knows but may be tired of talking about Tokico. They're messed up.

Forgot about that part. Good detective work. According to the FSM, the BCDD is not repairable and has to be replaced as a unit. Many people remove it, but I think it helps with the gas smell on deceleration so the car might smell a little more if you do. You might try running carb cleaner through the various passages, it might just be stuck. There's some springs, and a diaphragm and several passages inside. The diagram is in the Emissions chapter of the FSM, along with troubleshooting. Any year from 75-79, I think they're the same. There is also a solenoid inside, but I can't remember what happens if it loses power. Power is controlled by a speed sensor on the speedometer, through the black wire on the bottom of the BCDD. You might check that, maybe the power is stuck on or off.

That is my understanding. I have a used set, and underneath the 3012 and 3013 part number decals is what looks like the original Tokico part number 3038. One of the press-fit spacers fell off also, that's how I know they're not permanent. Since the gland nut is part of the package specific to the car, I think that Tokico takes 3038 shocks from their stock, presses a spacer on to the 3013 shocks, then puts the proper gland nut in the box and the package becomes either a 3012 or 3013 stock number. The 3012 or 3013 decal goes on the shock tube to avoid consumer confusion. Take a look at your rear shocks and see if they're still using a decal. Look for 3038 underneath. That would be one more verification of what I've seen.

The fronts are just the rears without the spacer. The spacer is a press-fit (check yours and you'll see).

Could be the Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR) or the throttle shaft sticking due to PCV valve vapor residue (reference Humble's How to Restore book,page 194) . He says Nissan actually issued a Recall Bulletin and kits to fix it around 1977, rerouting the PCV hoses. Pull a hose off one end of the AAR and look inside when the engine is warm. It should be closed. If not, it might be fixable with carb cleaner. Pull up on the throttle when the idle is high and see if the idle drops. I had to hose the inside of my throttle body with carb cleaner and use some Scotchbrite where the blades came close to the body when I had a hanging throttle. It only stuck when it was warm though.

The major disconnect is here: "goal is 240rwhp", from your first post. Don't forget drive line power losses. Some say 15%, some say 20. 10% would be conservative, so you'll need ~267 HP at the crankshaft. 95 HP/liter, 1.6 HP/cubic inch. You'll need a lot of etc. to get there. People are just trying to add more reality to your project. Still, for those that follow, keep track of your costs and report back. You'll probably be in the thousands just to get back to like-new with stock power levels, just on the engine, let alone the rest of the car. I'm seriously interested in where you end up. The advantage of Rebello is that his engines are a package deal and the shop is set up to for the work. You'll spend a lot of time educating shops on how to do the work. And there will probably be mistakes made, that add cost.

I missed this part. Good luck with it.

Give some information on the state of the system before the problem. Did it start and run right before or is this one of those "ran when parked ten years ago" projects? In the mean-time I would pull the spark plugs, spin the engine, and see if any fluids come out. Gas, water, or oil can all cause hydraulic locking.

Yeah, when it's not raining you can see some great scenery in the Pacific Northwest. I've never let fuel run from the supply line for 5 seconds or more, but I'm pretty sure that fuel should flow freely until the tank is empty. There is a spring loaded one-way (in) vent in the gas cap that can get stuck though, but you tested with the cap off and still see the problem. People that have sealed their own tanks sometimes clog the screen to the outlet pipe with sealant. I think that I've read of fixing that problem by running some thin wire up the outlet hose to poke the material off of the screen. If you've tried three pumps and none will generate pressure, I would focus on the fuel supply line from the tank. Blue's suggestion will confirm that your pump works if you want to be sure you're not wasting your time.

Is the pump mounted in the original location, and is the supply hose a fairly straight shot to the pump? The EFI pumps are typically "push" pumps, they don't pull well at all. In other words if the pump is mounted too high or if there's a loop of hose before the supply inlet to the pump, the pump rotor will just spin air, but won't generate enough suction to prime the pump. How long did the fuel flow freely? Sometimes there are floaters in the tank that let fuel flow then get sucked down on to the outlet from the tank. The power to the pump is controlled by the alternator power OR the oil pressure switch. Either. But it should be fairly easy to hear the pump when it runs. You can test the pump, and the pump power wires, by removing the small wire from the starter solenoid, and turning the key to Start. The starter won't engage but the pump will get power. this will let you test pressure and flow, and take the pressure switch and alternator out of the picture since the Start circuit bypasses those safeties.

It looks like original, with the IC Regulator sticker on it. I would have it tested and keep it or sell it. My original, old, worn alternators have all worked better (until they died) at idle speed, than my parts store alternator which suffered brown-out at idle in comparison

In the USA the 240Z (S30) and the 280Z (S30) have similar body styles, but the 280ZX (S130) is very different. For instance,the 280ZX does not use a MacPherson strut suspension in the rear, but the 240Z and 280Z do. So there is no need for a rear strut bar in a 280ZX. The 240Z and the 280Z both use MacPherson struts in the rear, but the 280Z uses a longer vertical strut. So the distance between the two struts is different for the 240Z versus the 280Z. The dimensions are shown in the illustrations in the Body chapter of the FSM's (see link below). You'll need to figure out what car you're working with, in Italy. Index of /FSM

What did you find inside? Any pictures? Not many people refurbish their starters, although I did take mine apart to figure out an odd noise, which turned out to be the bushing in the nose about to fall out.

Curious what your estimates were for this plan. Parts alone, plus machine work, plus assembly, plus tuning. Seriously, it would be a good exercise and give you a much better idea of how much you'll need to spend. I made a comment earlier about nickels and dimes. They really do add up, many people recommend doubling an initial build cost estimate,then hoping nothing goes wrong just to hit the doubled number. Anyway, since you're at the start, it would be a lesson for anyone following if you keep track of and report the costs you incur with whatever you decide.

If you thought that you could use the name of a Nazi and SS officer and not get some grief for it, then you have a general, universal, ignorance going for you. Enjoy it. I don't harbor hard feelings for people who do dumb things. I just feel some disappointment that they turned out the way they did. Regarding your logic of "he didn't do anything we didn't do", war crimes by both sides don't make war crimes right, by default. Perhaps the Brits should have been prosecuted also. As for choosing his name because you admire his exploits, your choice shows more specific ignorance and/or insensitivity to those people who are still alive and were affected by the Nazis and the SS, and WWII in general. It's just a selfish or thoughtless, insensitive choice for a screen name.

Someone pointed out on zcar.com that "Otto Skorzeny" is the name of an infamous Nazi and SS officer. Otto Skorzeny - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I hope this guy is just generally ignorant, and not of the ignorant skin-head type. Something to consider when conversing. He never replied to being called out on it on zcar.com.

Milling the block to raise CR would be essentially the same as installing pistons with a longer piston pin compression height (pushing the piston up above the deck). Much easier than milling the steel block. Maybe cheaper (I'm not familiar with machining or piston costs). Plus the fact that milling the block will change the relationship of the piston's top ring to the deck, which is important.

The Nissan Factory engineers knew how and they even wrote instructions and drew pictures for people servicing their own cars. It will take some manual effort though. Good luck. Hint - it's an electrical component. Index of /FSM

Search "brakes" - Welcome To Motorsport & The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts! or just go here - Silver Mine Motors

Did you install aftermarket urethane bushings or factory rubber? The reason that you tighten the factory rubber with a load on the wheels is because the rubber does not slide or rotate against the metal bracket very much, most of the suspension movement is taken up within the rubber itself. So the point of tightening with the wheels loaded is so that the rubber is not "loaded" or strained most of the time, only when the suspension moves. The round urethane replacement bushings, on the other hand, rotate within the brackets when the suspension moves (typically causing noise, that's why grease is recommended). So they can be tightened at any time. They're just going to rotate in the bracket anyway. That's my interpretation of the bushings options. I could be wrong.

The timing chain always has some slack in it. There's a slack side and a tight side. You need to follow the procedure in the FMS for determining timing chain wear. Put the timing mark on zero and see how the notch in the camshaft sprocket aligns with the groove in the retaining plate. It's outlined in detail, with drawings, in the Engine Mechanical chapter. The backfiring and weird running could have several causes, from lean mixture to ignition timing. What year car and engine?

When was the last time it ran before you got it? Have you changed the air filter and checked the air inlet for mice nests or other clogs? When you're driving it, does the engine pop and backfire or does it smell like too much gas?

I probably came across as negative in my post. Just trying to save you some money. The two sentences above shout "thousands of dollars" just to get to the end of the second sentence. Seriously, all of the hydraulics are probably bad, there's probably body/frame rust, the engine may need one or two thousand if you rebuild it along with the carburetors, and on and on. A broken stud or bolt here, a cracked thermostat housing there, the nickels and dimes just start rolling. Wait until you have the car in your possession and know what you have. If it's a very early Z you might decide to just restore it, or pull the numbers-matching motor (if it is) for safe keeping.