Zed Head

You have current following a wrong path. The charge lamp shouldn't get power with the key off. Check the circuit before the lamp and meter. Sounds like your problem doesn't have anything to do with the alternator.

You should always give a number where measurements are involved. "Out" isn't enough. The locknut can be very difficult to loosen and you can break other things,including your knuckles when it does come loose. I use a small sledge hammer to tap on a wrench to break them loose. The mass does the job without much overshoot. The cam lobe does look like it has wear on the base circle which would imply the lash is too tight, or non-existent. That can burn a valve. If you're set on doing it yourself we can come up with a bunch of tricks. But if you have a friend with experience, you'll probably learn more and be ahead in the end if you let him do it. You might just get the valves adjusted then go drive it hard to reset things and break any stuck rings loose. Inertia, heat and high energy fuel burns at 5500 RPM should loosen anything stuck, on a running engine. I think those magic oils might have an effect on an old rusty engine that hasn't run for a while but you're way past that. Could be the engine's hard to turn because it's not fully broken in yet.

Actually that part is shown in the link I gave. I missed it. Part #19, coincidentally. Seems like a lot of work. It's at about the very highest driest point in the transmission. But, while it's open... 32858-U6700 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-lip~32858-u6700.html

This link should help you visualize a little bit better. I think that o-ring is the only seal and it's basically a dust seal combo oil seal. Oil can only get up there by splashing and capillary, no real driving force for it to leak. Doesn't look there is an internal seal, so your "just leave it" idea may be the way to go. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed That chipped gear is your reverse gear. You'll probably only notice it as a grindy growly noise when in reverse, I think, but it might be difficult to engage since there is no synchro, just two straight cut gears meshing. You'll be mashing those damaged teeth against another set of damaged teeth. Pretty common I think, although yours is pretty bad. Comes from angry people with bad clutch control cylinders. I found a chunk of reverse on my 4 speed's drain plug magnet. Not from me, from a PO. You want to look at the points of the dog teeth on the gears, and the internal teeth on the couplers, and the points on the synchros. They should be symmetrical and sharp. Eurodat has rebuilt a 5 speed, he'd have some good ideas.

Is the hole centered and perpendicular? What didn't work with the extractor? On your way to "bigger" for an M10, the remains might come out. You can't get to M10 without doing that anyway, so really all you can do is keep drilling, and/or get better extractors. You want the stock size or bigger, so M6 isn't going to work.

But if the hole has already been drilled and tapped for the heli-coil/insert, he's kind of limited. He might just have to do what the last guy did. Could be an SAE thread. Doesn't look he did the right work for the stock bolt, that's why it pulled out.

Examine your old bolts and see if one has a different thread pitch or size. It does like an insert but no telling if it's correct for the stock bolts. It looks oversize, and like there was enough extra room to pull it out of the thread. You'll need to know size and pitch to insert a new one. Take it off the bolt and see what the locking portion looks like, at the top under the bolt head. Just for fun.

A PO might have got them mixed up, who knows. If you did strip the top threads, or they were already stripped and you stripped the bottoms, you might just run a long bolt in there to the bottom and see how much thread you have left. Measure travel from when it grabs to when it stops. Then find an appropriate bolt, or cut a long one to fit.

If you have access to a bore scope that would be the thing to do. A broken ring would probably leave signs as MM says. Very light signs, hopefully. I've read of people disassembling old turbo engines that didn't have any visible bore damage and having the rings fall out in pieces. Probably depends on the ring, and the lubrication, and how it breaks.

I think that every water pump bolt is a different length. Make sure you didn't get one in the wrong hole. The threads should grab with at least 1/4" of bolt to go before the head, maybe about 1/2". Pretty sure also, that under no pressure, you can have a bad bolt and still have no leaks. I've seen a few broken bolt heads on systems that looked like they were leak-free, even in use. Not recommended but a sign of something off in your case. You might have some other issue going on.

Here's a picture of the plate from 1981 ZX engine. Had it off recently. 5 speed manual transmission, all stock junk yard car.

Wouldn't be surprised if Datsun Spirit would fix it for you. Only 5,000 miles, kind of looks like a broken ring. Put all of your paper work in order, it probably shows due diligence during break-in and maintenance. Not a huge job, he could probably do it in-car if he wanted to, although, based on reputation, he might want to give it a good look-over out of the car. Forgot that you're on the opposite coast. Still, he might assist financially, at least with parts, if you can find the right shop to work on it.

Trust but verify. Eiji could tell you something, I'd guess. Chrome rings can take a while to seat. As Mark M. suggested, a cylinder pressure measurement might be telling also . Leaky compression rings should show there. Bad valve seals and guides can allow blowby on the exhaust side. The head was done by Z Car Performance. Not sure who that is. You're still in that short-term vs. long-term dilemma. Vent the fumes and drive short-term, fix the issue long-term. Interesting problem.

Could be he got a rebuilt head from Datsun Spirit and a short block from California Datsun. I'd go through the papers and try to suss out what's what. Why does Datsun come up redlined for spelling?

Aren't the two piece units for automatic transmissions? You did an auto to manual swap, right? I wonder if the later auto units have a smaller hole, still two pieces.

By the way, older floats are basically just tin bubbles. High pressure can bend/crush them, I think. Carb people went to plastic in later years. Hope you're not at the start of a trail of fixes.

Just went over this pump with jxq. That pump uses a bypass port to regulate pressure. I'll bet there's something blocking it. Not sure exactly where the passages are but the instructions describe screwing a bolt in or out to get some variation of pressure, probably by shrinking or enlarging the port. I'd remove that bolt and see what's in there. Here's the instruction sheet - http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/650/650-4070LP.pdf

Just had a similar conversation on a different forum, about a 4 barrel carb. The carb manufacturers suggest the power brake port as dual purpose with a T. So it would be the port on the right. But this would run all of the blow-by through two cylinders. I think that people run vacuum logs for situations like this. Two problems really - one is what to do with the blow-by, the other is why is there so much.

There's always a way. If you don't want to use the intake vacuum you can use the Bernoulli principle - http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/ If you're using an air filter you can plumb both vents to it. If you're using three air filters you could run a three-way T to each. You could probably place the tube ends in front of the air horns and suck the fumes in that way also if you're running individual filters. You could run a long hose out to the back of the car by the exhaust pipe. I'd find a way to burn them myself.

Isn't the bigger hole just for inspecting the core plug area? They probably closed it to keep things cleaner. Look at the all of the clutch dust that would make it past the old one. I'd use the newer one.

Run the hose to the intake manifold like the factory did. You'll need to seal the system so you don't suck too much air through the crankcase and screw up your air-fuel ratio. It's not "P"CV until it has vacuum pulling gases through. You might also confirm the "rebuilt by Datsun Spirit" story and get some details. Wouldn't be surprised if they keep records on their work. You could call them with the engine serial number. Nighty-night.

You don't really need that second pickup. Although it does take you through engine warmup more smoothly. There is a short time during warmup where the extra timing advance keeps idle speed up. If it's not there the ignition module will just run off of the other one. I had the same problem with the bolt broken off in the housing. You might be able to drill it out. The drill will probably walk off the bolt or through it and in to the aluminum. Mine did but I reused it anyway. Some sealant and a good gasket and no problems. Those are the same. Coolant temperature sensor. For the ECU. The temperature sender (for the gauge) in your top picture just has a bullet connector. That might be the normal mode. Not sure and not by my car. Heat the housing with an air gun or torch. Aluminum expands a lot more than steel. Those sensors will probably come out. Do it while it's on the engine for leverage. But the holes in the housings might or might not match what you need.

Hey Mike. The Service Manuals (repair) are there, but not the Owners Manuals. He asked for Owners, specifically. Where's Blue?!

I think that's a switch. For the second magnetic pickup in the distributor and circuit in the ignition module. The sensor, for the gauge, has one wire, yellow, I think. It grounds to the housing.

Here's an interesting site showing a water pump modification. Just to give an idea of the variation people see. A good understanding of how the pump works and an inspection of what you get is probably worth doing. http://www.wallaceracing.com/water-pump-mods.php Here's the link it came from - http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411256 I love talking about stuff like this... Edit - just noticed that the thread I linked went on for 1324 posts, over a year and a half. I've only made it through page one, post #20.