Zed Head

p.s. most mechanics today will assume that the ECU has sensors for every component and use an IACV and/or ignition timing to control idle speed. The early EFI system is very primitive and hard to comprehend for today's code readers. The components mostly work independently with the engineers assuming that each individual component is adjusted to a certain specification. Very little adjusting to conditions, besides the coolant temperature sensor. They're very close to being electronic carburetors.

Dude. The above statement is wrong. Sorry. It's all described in the Factory Service Manual, in detail, with pictures.

p.s. only going in to detail because your first post suggested that you wanted understand how the EFI system worked. You're n the right place, there are many members out here who understand the EFI system in great depth. Your conclusions have potential, but are not right.

Sorry, and again, no offense, but until you turn that screw 1/2 turn and go out and show that it causes the engine to fall on its face again, you're just guessing and believing "mechanics" who probably don't really understand the engines. This - "When the car is cold and being enriched by the air regulator being open, it detects that and doesn't operate the same as it does when the car is hot and not under enrichment." and the "no doubt" cause a lot of doubt out here. Your conclusions and understanding are not right. The AAR is on its own circuit, the ECU has no idea what its doing. As I said, no offense intended. Thanks for sharing your observation. Go turn that screw 1/2 turn, you can do it by hand, and see what happens. The idle speed will increase slightly and that's all.

No offense, but it's probably just a coincidence. The proper way to tell if the "full enrichment" was happening would have been with a meter, at the ECU connector. From an experimental perspective, if you want to verify that the 1/2 turn of the screw was the cause, you would turn the screw back to where it was. The problem should return. The idle adjustment screw just controls an air passage that lets air past the throttle blade. It's the one with the big head and the spring underneath the head. Could be that your distributor breaker plate is sticking, and it broke free when you were testing. Just one possibility.

These old EFI systems tend to run lean once you get all the bugs worked out, ofent it's so bad that you'll get popping back through the intake. I have a method of richening the mixture and I can get a misfire/stumble if I have it set too lean. You could try it, it's pretty easy. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html The electronic ignition modules fail also but that problem tends to be more obvious than what you're describing. I'd try the the "fuel tweak" first. I have mine mounted in the cabin so I can tune it to the finest level. It makes a difference.

Nice. If you lower the car just a bit it will help the handling a lot. I've heard/read that the later cars sit a little high because there's certain height the 5 mph bumpers have to be at. Federal guidelines. Only mentioning 'cause you're going to work on the suspension.

You said you tried. Did it work? Do you have the FSM? You're kind of rambling around on what the problem is. There's a lot of "load" that happens before 5000 RPM. What kind of "stumbling" does it do? Is there any popping through the intake or is it just a spark problem? What does the tachometer needle do when it's stumbling? The pump noise might be from the filter before the pump, making it too difficult to pull fuel. Your fuel pressure is higher than spec. Not looking for buddies. Good luck.

What kind of electrical? Engine, lights, dash... They're different. And which garages have you tried? Probably best to stick to this sub-forum. Run a single thread.

What kind of electrical? Engine, lights, dash... They're different. And which garages have you tried?

You might check a lawnmower or small engine repair shop. The cables on those are two way actuators.

I think that they call them reservoirs. They work more as charging systems, air blows out but coolant gets sucked back in. You have to have the right radiator cap for them to work, with two valves, an in and an out. Dave WM, you might have a Canada car. Apparently they didn't get them. Cooling chapter...

Consider McMaster Carr also. https://www.mcmaster.com/#music-wire/=14yc2e0

Dang. Didn't realize how lucky I was. You might reconsider scavenging the wrecking yards. Some of the older bigger cars can have lengthy cables, with sheaths.

The open side always faces toward the fluid.

You live in Texas, surrounded by industry, and can't find a hardware store with piano wire? I live in the Portland metro area and found it at a True Value store. It came in three foot length's, if I recall. Sometimes the internet makes things so easy they actually get more difficult.

What's a dovetail?

Here's some more. Just trying to help, Barnfind. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hoyts-Automotive/129484637180727

He doesn't know man. It's free! Here's some Google-fu. https://www.google.com/maps/place/120+Pond+Rd,+Bowdoinham,+ME+04008/@44.0241324,-69.9292189,1535m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x4cb2760e52040e65:0xced01639ea96351c!8m2!3d44.024622!4d-69.9232679

Your in-dash voltmeter can tell you quite a bit about the electrical system. Look at the needle before starting the car, at idle, and when the engine is revved up. It should be higher when the engine is running. And look at the red charge light. It should be on when the key is On, and go off when the engine starts.

I think that DZman is your competition luial. He joined just to make that one post. He's a potential buyer. Let the game begin. Interested to find out what the secrets are that must be disclosed via personal conversation.

A "good deal" is still being screwed up for somebody. The guys saying it's worth more aren't really here for the person buying. They just want to see a high value on the car. Two different camps, is what I'm saying. Collectors and drivers. It will be interesting to see where this one ends up. Maybe prospective buyers should write a letter stating their intentions and why they should get it like they're dong for home buying these days.

I'm just saying be honest, have integrity, don't get greedy, stick to what you said you were going to do. That's to you. Don't let these guys out here who want to see high values for every car sold sway what you're doing. They could screw it up for you. The corollary to buyer beware is seller beware. If you sell the car for less than you could have squeezed out of it you're still happy that you got your price. And the new owner is happy that they got a good deal.

I think that he's just decided to he wants to put new rubber in. Not unreasonable, if the bushings were readily available we'd be saying "why not?". I imagine that they can't be found because Nissan had a very low inventory of them, because they're almost never ever replaced.

This thread illustrates one of the interesting problems with the site. Are these cars collectors items, like old antiques, that people are buying for investment purpose? Or trophies of conspicuous consumption? Or are they cool old sports cars that we're buying to enjoy, drive repair and improve? The big arguments come between people who want to pump up or prop up the value, and people who want to see people use the cars. I still go back to the basic fact that tse4me is just here for the money. And the guys who offered to buy it are here for the car. Now, whether or not the guys who are buying are buying for the car or the investment value is another issue. Just seems disingenuous to get involved so that somebody can make more money from a member and then never come back again. tse4me will be long gone once he gets that cash. Edit - and that comment about saving the car from a V8 seems fabricated. tse4me didn't know anything about the cars. He just stepped in to a lucky situation.