Zed Head

Can't really tell how the dome switch works. Those types of bulb holders are often loose, I think. Like fuse holders. You're 90% there with your meter measurements, you just have to figure out how to get the bulb ends connected to what your meter shows. Sometimes the poking action of the meter probe will cause a contact that goes away when the pressure is released. If you're seeing a ground circuit though, at least you know the ground circuit is available.

Do you have a meter? You can check the specs against factory. I'm guessing that you're on a budget? That's not one of the Rock Auto products for the 260Z. Here are the specs for the 260Z coil and the resistor. Looks like Datsun was shooting for about 1.5 to 2.0 total. I can't find specs for the C-632 out on the internet. Amazon's site says it's not a fit for the 260Z but without specs, who knows.

Probably some new business major hire saw an opportunity. They seem to be getting some feedback. They're thanking people for it. https://twitter.com/photobucket?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author https://www.facebook.com/photobucket/ They've made the big-time news - http://www.pcmag.com/news/354711/photobucket-breaks-image-links-across-the-internet https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/06/30/photobucket_charging_400yr_3rdparty_pgs/

Some states will issue "trip permits" that are recognized by other states. They're usually good for 30 days and allow the new owner to drive the car to its new home, to be titled and registered there. If you're going to title the car in Michigan, you probably don't need to title it in North Carolina. If you're going to transport the car to England you might not need to title it at all. But there are probably customs rules that need to be addressed, I'd guess. If the owner doesn't have a title in his name then it's a whole other world of forms and fees and waiting, maybe. There could be a lien on the title, or it could be salvage. Better put a list of steps together before you even make an offer, or you might just end up spinning your wheels. Some states are really strict and bureaucratic and others super loose. I would start where the car is going to end up and work backward. You might find that you don't even want to deal with certain states. For example, California keeps track of ALL vehicles, registered or not, and charges non-operational vehicle fees. If your brother is going to hang on to the car for a while in Michigan, he might need to title, register, and insure it. Here's the NC site - https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/title/transfer/ Here's Michigan - http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-1585_1587-76278--,00.html Here's CA non-OP stuff - https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr01

Sounds like you're thinking like I used to think. Focus on the part being worked on alone. I've since realized that it's often easier to just remove a complete sub-assembly. From where you're at now you could drop the diff and mustache bar and crossmember all as a sub-assembly. Then take it apart. You already have the half shafts disconnected. While you're there you can install that 5 speed.

Pretty sure that somebody found a late model heater core that would fit the Z car box with minor work. I think it was Captain Obvious. @Captain Obvious

Good idea to check what you last worked on, but your symptoms don't really sound like a slipping clutch. A slipping clutch will make more engine nose as RPM increase but the car won't go any faster. Lack of power seems more engine related. This might sound too simple and obvious but check your throttle linkage, even the carpet under the throttle pedal. Could be that your foot action wasn't translating to throttle valve opening. If you open the hood and contort you can see the end of the linkage at the throttle body, to see if foot movement = blade movement. The engine doesn't require much air when it's out of gear to rev freely so that could be misleading. Check your air filter and inlet also. A plastic bag or other debris could have been sucked in.

It's still a Z. But it's someone else's vision. And nobody has really mentioned quality of the swap. RB25DET swap is pretty generic. You can swap an engine in to anything if it will fit in to the engine bay, using pieces of sheet steel and not much else. Just saying, that all you really see there is a cool motor, the RB25DET, some flares, an air dam, removed bumpers, a decent paint job, and some wheels. The engine and the transmission are generally expensive to maintain also. Consider that. There's a guy on Hybridz who often chimes in with his story of buying what he thought was nice small block chevy swapped car, but finding out that the worksmanship was so poor he had to tear it down and rebuild almost everything. Anyway, beware. Lots of ways to end up with a pile of unexpected work.

You can see the weld seams from the floor replacement in your pictures. Actually, you should probably be more focused on "RB" stuff. They have their own sets of problems, with coil and oil pump failures, for example. The DET is a high performance engine so it gets beat on, of course. And they're bought from overseas suppliers, pulled from used/wrecked cars, if I understand right. Japanese Domestic Market, aka JDM. It's not an old Datsun L6. The Hubridz site has more RB folks.

You might have just cursed him. The hole gets deformed on the sides sometimes so sideways isn't the same as rotate. I used an old lug nut (same thread) to rotate the pin, to loosen it up and distribute the PB Blaster, and to beat it part way out, but rotating was much easier than sliding. I also used stacks of washers and a piece of pipe and other things to build a puller on the fly. But eventually I pulled the threaded end of the pin right off and had to beat the rest out with a long bolt.

What does the tachometer needle do when it's "losing fire" or runs unequal? It's a spark counter. Can't remember your car. Are you running carbs or EFI? Have you tuned it up recently? Spark plugs get dirty and gap increases as the electrodes wear.

If you can measure power and you can confirm ground then you should get light. You forgot to describe the year of car - 1977. B is on a switch that's right there at the light. It's push-on, push-off switch. BR runs through the door switches, which are only closed when the door is open. But they do get stuck. Mine were and needed some contact cleaner and working back and forth to get right. You might just hook your meter up to B and/or BR and work the switches to make sure the ground is good. That's all that they do, supply the ground. If you have power to the terminal at the bulb that's connected to blue/white then the problem has to be the grounding. I copied the page from what I think might be the 1976 FSM, not really sure. I know I sent you to Mike's copy but I'm not really sure what year that is and don't want to run the application that's required to unzip it. I got mine from nicoclub.com Anyway, here it is. It's probably the same. It matches your wire colors too, but it's on a different page.

What brand and model of coil did you get? We can tell you if it's right.

There are people that will act as transaction agents for things like this, for a fee. There are a few threads on this site from people who didn't get what they thought they were getting. Even the shipping companies can make mistakes.

Beermanpete had the best suggestion then, in Post #3. Just make sure that the coil specs match. That's probably not the problem with your tach though. But good luck.

Pretty sure he got it running. He used "turn" when he meant "fire" or "start". theab, locate the source of the leak first. Can't really decide what to do if you don't know where it's leaking. Check the bottom of the radiator, the hose to the heater core, the back of the cylinder head, etc.

Loose S. If it's in the harness it will still be there with the new/reman alternator. Loose L might do it also. No winding current means no charging. The loose parts could be inside the alternator. Guess you'll find out. Those studs in to, through, the case can come loose. When you remove it, shake it hard and see if anything rattles.

Starting fluid is always a quick way to see if most of the basics are in place. Any chance you could add more information? For all we know you either just pulled it from the bottom of a lake, or it was running fine ten minutes ago, or anywhere in between.

I get it. Gelis much? UR? Too bad... Nice to not read much about that guy these days.

Edit 2 - I screwed up. You can get the Start resistor bypass by connecting black/blue to the same terminal as white/black. Black/blue is Start power, black/white is Run power, and white black is just the line from resistor coil positive, to supply coil power. Looks like Nissan used half a ballast resistance for Start power. Deleted, realized I didn't understand what the OP was describing. Edit - found it, attached. Black/blue and black/white would connect together to one end, and white/black connects to the other. But you'll lose the Start bypass which will drop coil current during starting. 1974 is the first Z with electronic ignition but they still used a ballast. The condenser is to save the points, the ballast is to control current through the system. They're pretty interesting, the resistance changes as they heat up, due to current, to drop current. Self-actuating. But the other issues of which coil and which ignition system and which resistor you should use can't really be answered. You could measure resistance of the two and decide if there's any benefit to the new one. The Starter bypass might be helpful, although they got rid of it in the later years with more powerful ignition modules. Why'd you get a new coil anyway?

I'm still using an old 1981 Nissan alternator that I got from a junkyard engine I bought. Probably 40,000 miles on it. I have a new Autolite replacement from OReilly in the box on the shelf that I'll probably never use. It's the lifetime warranty replacement for the first OReilly alt that crapped out soon after I installed it. I'd go get a junk yard Nissan alternator myself. Just make sure it's Nissan.

Are you looking at cross-references too? The early 80's Maxima alternators will work too. Bad S same symptoms...

I feel bad for bashing on the Seafoam. Seems like you were looking at Seafoam to fix what's really just a tuning problem, and maybe some other issues. The engine almost never gets up to temp? Maybe you need a new thermostat. There's another thread going on where thermostats were mentioned. I noticed a significant effect of replacing what appeared to be a good thermostat with a new Nissan thermostat. The old thermostat seemed to open at the correct temperature, tested on the stove in a pan of water using a thermometer, but I think that it had a weak spring and was blowing open in operation. The engine ran cool and would fluctuate from below halfway to halfway. With the new T-stat the needle just slowly rises to a little over halfway and sits there. Doesn't budge once it gets there. Very noticeable difference from the old one.

Is that the lawnmower stuff? I didn't search the youtube tube.

No offense, if you're a Seafoam fan. There just doesn't seem to be much evidence behind it. You'd think that they'd have a video that actually showed a dirty engine getting cleaner inside. They do have one though - https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-official-video-how-to-clean-a-fuel-injection-gasoline-intake-with-sea-foam-spray/ "backwash" vapors at 2:25.