Zed Head

Maybe your original MC is not the stock 77 MC. Take a picture of the original M, that works, and post it.

That's weird. You're right, the ZX MC should need more push rod, not less. So your problem is backward. You can test if the return port is blocked just by blowing back through the return line. Kind of messy but might show something. You can see how the seal closes off the reservoir return as soon as the piston moves.

Maybe yer brain conflated Healey Z with New Zealand Z? See how easy that could be... (got to use an uncommon word, yay).

Curious - did your driveshaft yoke get damaged? I have an old 240Z shaft with a groove worn in it, myself.

Be careful straightening your dust seal (the external metal with the ding in it). Don't pry too hard against the aluminum or use a drift pin and a hammer to knock it back in to shape. You might consider just removing it, Nissan did on the ZX's. The double seal was overkill, probably, or caused rubbing problems when bent, like you might have.

I think so. A quick test is to compare the diameter of the new seal with the hole it needs to fit in to. Better check your propeller shaft (aka driveshaft) slip yoke for damage. The seals have a steel spring to maintain tension and when the rubber goes the steel wears a groove in the slip yoke.

Not much info there. Can't even tell if it runs. This Hagerty tool seems like a good start for guessing. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1978-datsun-280z Are those Canadian dollars? http://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/convert/?From=CAD&To=USD

Seems too good to be true. Gotta be a catch somewhere. Maybe Rossiz can check it out. @rossiz https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1966-datsun-1600

Looks like they should. I have a 78 system sitting on an engine in the garage but I must have removed the bracket, it's not attached. But I did find it shown a parts diagram. Part #28, I believe. Looks like they only changed it once, in July 1975. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/e-f-i/air-flow 14 hours - you've probably found it, fixed it, and moved on.

This Hybridz thread covers your problem, almost exactly. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113771-quaife-qdf7l-r200-missing-part/

There's a clip in a groove inside the diff. The clip drops in to the groove in the axle shafts, if everything's right. The clip stays in the diff when the axles are removed. Later, with the VLSD's in the 90's and maybe the opens too, Nissan put the clip on the shaft and chamfered the diff groove so that it would stay on the shaft. Sometimes people get them messed up if they're used to one style. Those look like 280ZX CV shafts (3x2 bolt pattern). So there must be an adapter on your wheel side. They still retain the clip in the diff though. but somebody has been mucking about back there so you'll probably have to take the axles out to be sure. you can buy the clips and insert them using a socket to drive them in until they hit the groove. Are you sure it's an LSD? People say you have to remove the cover to be 100% positive, but generally the "both wheels move the same way" test is a pretty good clue. Somebody might have dropped a VLSD in to your carrier also. I thought about it but it was too much work.

Took a couple pictures. Looks like the bottom of the spring has its own bolted on little piece. You can see half of the screw head holding it in the first picture.The top has a hole in the bellcrank, opposite where the plastic linkage ball snaps.on. It's all buried behind the distributor and lower than the distributor. Hard to get to. My car had a big spring attached to the valve cover and a piece of the throttle linkage, probably 'cause the PO couldn't get a replacement attached right.. They fixed it on the ZX and put the spring up top and easy to get to.

I have pondered the same but realized that at 10-13 psi system pressure the coolant's coming out no matter which side the valve is on.

Nissan calls them "Control Unit Checking Terminals". Shown on the big wiring diagram, by the ECU. Designed for some sort of test device. They just hang there, disconnected. Everybody wonders about them, eventually.

Actually, since the essential question (whcich lash pad?) doesn't consider the grind itself, or if it's stock or reground, I think he needs to take some measurements and probably do a trial or two. Lash pad thickness depends on more than just the cam. The procedure is described on pages 108-110 of Monroe's "How To Rebuild" book. No matter what you find out about the camshaft you'll still need to determine the right pad thickness for the head assembly by trial and measure.

One of the big problems with our automated world is that we forget where those automations came from - people. Why don't you send a message to a people and see what they say? Probably better than pissing a people off, as your first "new member" action, I'd guess Although, it looks like they might still use paper mail. People writing on paper, inserting in envelopes, applying stamps and waiting. Bizarre. You'll probably get your info in the mail. http://www.zonc.org/ Bottom of the page. There's also Facebook, and Twitter, and various other electronic alternatives. "ZONC PO Box #184 21001 San Ramon Valley Blvd. Suite A4 San Ramon, CA 94583"

The base circles aren't as small as some ground cams. When they grind a new profile over an existing profile they cut some base circle off. You can measure the cam lobe height also to see how close it is to factory specs. Not sure but I think that factory cams were cast to shape, forged, then ground. Or maybe just cast and ground. But not billet. That's why your Potter cam is so smooth between the lobes but the factory shafts are all gnarly.

Too much information. What was supposed to happen, in your opinion? And how fast? And how long did you wait?

Water ****. Noticed in another thread that **** is okay in the title but not in the body of the post. But apparently only in this one -

Similar -

"Original" is the undefined part here. How will anyone know? If somebody could get a copy of the catalog saved, and some other documentation, it would help. Was there a Scarab "factory"? I think it was just a shop that modified the cars, right? Drop your car off, get it modified, get it back. Or did they buy the car, modify it, and sell it as a finished product? Did a Google, and it looks like it was actually three shops. Is Brain Morrow still around? http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ Edit - a few more clicks and I found that I have created a circle. I imagine that with some click-work on eBay and Craigslist a person could collect enough parts to make their own Scarab. A receipt or build-list from Scarab Engineering would really add to a car's cachet. Good luck Randalla. A few more bits. We could @ these guys and probably blow up this thread. But I'll stop now, I've learned enough. - http://www.zhome.com/rnt/Scarab/Scarab.htm Here's a page from a book with some wrongness - https://books.google.com/books?id=99gDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA117&lpg=PA117&dq=Brian+Morrow+scarab&source=bl&ots=xTkZJtUsFK&sig=O6L5rMWjd2NMTt5jja5k_EXl8xc&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiThYqVxqTUAhWJLmMKHZDpAbkQ6AEINjAD#v=onepage&q=Brian Morrow scarab&f=false This conversation has happened before - @kimberly

Not ignoring you Dave WM. He only talked about replacing the MC so the assumption, maybe wrong, is that he didn't mess with the inside stuff. Another reason that I might use a shim is that several people have had problems adjusting the adjustment on the booster rod. It tends to get stuck. Sometimes really bad. Fender shims might be about perfect. You could loosen the nuts, let the MC push out to where you can just feel it touching the booster rod, then slip the fender shims over the studs and clamp it back down. You can get a whole box of various thicknesses at Harbor Freight, and thye're u-shaped so that you can slip them without complete disassembly. A little bead of sealant across the top and sides to keep water out and you're done. Big picture, if it works but you still don't like the shims you can take it apart and do it "right". At least you'll know what the problem is.

We're all on the same page. If it was mine I might just build a shim, loosen the nuts and slide it in between the booster and MC. Easy and same end result but you get to keep the new parts.

Sounds like you didn't adjust the booster rod to fit the new master cylinder, and the piston in the MC is pushed forward, blocking the fluid return hole. A fairly common problem. You need to remove the MC and shorten the booster rod. Or shim out the MC. Here's a picture from the FSM. With all of the various aftermarket parts though, you kind of have to adjust by feel, or take measurements. I don't think that their "B" length works for all MC's.

What do you mean by "perfect clearance between pad and rotor"? I don't think that there's a clearance spec. And did they stick from the start or after you drove it? Do they stick so bad that they get hot and the car won't roll? Or do they stick when you try to turn the rotor by hand with the car still n the air? Need more detail.