Zed Head

The axles on the ends of the CV shafts are the same as the short stub axles used with "u-joint" half shafts. Here's a picture from 1983. They call it a universal joint, some call it a CV, apparently it's not really a true "CV", yadayada... They show the same diff with both types of axles. It's the Rear Axle and Rear Suspension chapter. So if the diff is the problem, you'll have the same issue with the short stubs. Easy to test though. You'd need to unweld that adapter also, or swap the hubs. Bummer that you're having this problem. Can't emphasize enough the need for taking good solid accurate measurements though. No offense, but you still haven't measured the distance to the diff groove and compared it to the distance to the shaft groove. Everything centers on those grooves and that circlip. The concept is shown in the picture. Numbers, numbers, numbers.... You might find that you can swap open R200 parts in to the CLSD diff. Maybe you can just fix the diff. If you have the time and patience it might be worthwhile to remove the open diff and set the two diffs side by side. Then you can see the circlips and how they work and where they sit and pop some axles in and out of the open diff. Maybe you'll have an "ah ha".

I was trying to define "all the way". They don't go in until they won't go any farther, they go in until the clips seat in the groove. I would still focus on measuring the grooves and where they sit. And the width of the housing and whatever other numbers you can get. The numbers will tell the story.

Those all start at one spot but a tap with a hammer might not be enough...

I got 8 5/8" across the back of the housing. Maybe 8 9/16". Eyeballed from above.

I notice that the numbers on the top of your diff are different from mine (see my earlier picture). Mine ends in N9000. They should really just identify the R200 housing so you'd think they'd be the same. Maybe somebody found one of those old R190's. Maybe they use different axles. Measure the width of your diff across the back and I'll measure one of mine.

It works for some people. It doesn't work for others. That's why we collect old parts. Some people have found the loose connections in the connector, not the ECU. Peel the rubber seal back and check the connector.

"Seat" is when the two grooves are aligned, with the clip in both. You must be pushing them beyond "seated" to cause them to interfere with each other.Seems like your diff grooves must have got damaged so that they don't hold the clip in place tight enough so that the axles can slide through. You have a run of the mill R200 and plain old R200 axles. You really shouldn't be having these problems. The clips should never have been removed from your diff either. t does look a CLSD too. A picture from the back showing those holes would be more informative though, showing the internal ramps. I dragged my 280ZX CV axles off the shelf and measured and got the same axle lengths that you showed on the first page. All of your parts are right, you just have to get those clips to stay in the diff groove while you push the axle through. I'd focus on bending those clips wider until they're too big to fit in the diff hole then compress them just enough to get in so that they'll have "spring" left when you push them in all the way to the groove, so that they'll spring open and be bigger. I'm sure that the factory has a special tool that maintains maximize size and spring pressure during installation. You might have damaged yours.

Here's a good thread and its link.

I think my logic on the pistons might have been off in my other post, but it really seems like those pistons are stuck closed or the throttle blades aren't opening. I think that if you were lean you'd get some popping or bucking. But you're just describing nothing happening. Maybe your oil leaked out or viscosity changed.

If the car was in gear and engine turning but the tach dropped to zero that's a sign that you've lost spark. But there are many ways to lose spark, from complete power loss to everything to a bad ignition module. It's one of those clues that you can build on. Your fuel pressure probably stayed high when it was running rough because the intake vacuum was low because it was running poorly. It was probably the other way around, pressure dropped as it started running smoothly. Just a guess. Trading cause for effect. You're at the point where it might be worth your time to try an HEI module. It's a good thing to know anyway because the old ignition modules fail on a regular basis. It's just a matter of time before yours does, if it's not failing already. You can get a BWD brand at any auto parts store for about $25. That's what I'm using now. I actually have an old 1978 module in the garage that I had wired in to my 76 for a short while, after my original module failed. I don't know where Ridgeland is and don't know when I'd have time to package it up, but if you get in a bind I might be able to get it out to you. But, long-term, it's just another old module on its last legs anyway. Better to go with the HEI.

Any chance the exhaust system is involved? Also, just to distinguish between an RPM limit and a power limit, could you try up-shifting early? AKA short-shifting. See if you can go faster even though you can't get the RPM up.

There is quite a bit out there about bad solid state external regulators. I don't think that you can classify them that way. Just pick a quality brand.

If I read the operating description in the FSM right, the pistons control air flow and the pistons are controlled by intake manifold vacuum. So, basically, if the pistons don't rise to let more air in then the engine is effectively throttled. I'd like at where the pistons vacuum source is, and if it's possible that it's blocked or lost. Maybe the carbs are loose, causing a big vacuum leak, or there's a fitting or plate that's loose. Seems like the pistons must not be responding to intake vacuum is what I'm implying. They're probably open a certain amount for idle and low RPM, so you do get some response. It's a neat concept, but the carb's air opening is controlled by a secondary mechanism, the piston, not a primary one, like a throttle blade. If your throttle linkage is working, seems like it has to be the pistons. Assuming that the other engine parts are correct, like ignition and cam timing. I could be way off, I'm just using your problem to learn SU stuff.

It just presses and snaps on. Plastic on plastic, if I remember right. But the plastic bits on the inside are usually worn. Look inside the chrome cup-shaped piece and you'll see the remains of what was supposed to happen. I had to pick up some wrecking yard parts to get one that would stay on. Never mind, those are 280Z details. Looks like 240Z is different. I looked at your picture.

It's always at 2500 or it's standard for when the engine dies? And did you power the fuel pump to get the 25 psi, or just look at the residual pressure? Here's an old story I bring up sometimes - I've had my 76 and a 78 parts car both refuse to start when I had the tachometer removed. The 76 also refused to start when the tachometer resistor fell out (I had unwrapped it from the harness just to get a look at it). To me that would imply that if the tachometer circuitry was messed up enough inside that you could get a no-run condition. It's an odd thing and the phenomenon went away after I switched to a GM HEI ignition module. But it seemed like the quality of the signal on Pin 1 to the ECU must have been affected to cause it. You could test your system by removing the tachometer inline resistor and seeing if your engine will start. If it doesn't it's at least a possibility that the tach is involved. Doesn't give you much direction but I suggest staying open-minded. You have a weird problem so it might have a weird cause. The GM HEI module swap is very simple, wiring-wise. You can bolt it to any car part close to the coil, as a test, if you wanted to invest $25 and some time.

Can't really tell how the dome switch works. Those types of bulb holders are often loose, I think. Like fuse holders. You're 90% there with your meter measurements, you just have to figure out how to get the bulb ends connected to what your meter shows. Sometimes the poking action of the meter probe will cause a contact that goes away when the pressure is released. If you're seeing a ground circuit though, at least you know the ground circuit is available.

Do you have a meter? You can check the specs against factory. I'm guessing that you're on a budget? That's not one of the Rock Auto products for the 260Z. Here are the specs for the 260Z coil and the resistor. Looks like Datsun was shooting for about 1.5 to 2.0 total. I can't find specs for the C-632 out on the internet. Amazon's site says it's not a fit for the 260Z but without specs, who knows.

Probably some new business major hire saw an opportunity. They seem to be getting some feedback. They're thanking people for it. https://twitter.com/photobucket?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author https://www.facebook.com/photobucket/ They've made the big-time news - http://www.pcmag.com/news/354711/photobucket-breaks-image-links-across-the-internet https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/06/30/photobucket_charging_400yr_3rdparty_pgs/

Some states will issue "trip permits" that are recognized by other states. They're usually good for 30 days and allow the new owner to drive the car to its new home, to be titled and registered there. If you're going to title the car in Michigan, you probably don't need to title it in North Carolina. If you're going to transport the car to England you might not need to title it at all. But there are probably customs rules that need to be addressed, I'd guess. If the owner doesn't have a title in his name then it's a whole other world of forms and fees and waiting, maybe. There could be a lien on the title, or it could be salvage. Better put a list of steps together before you even make an offer, or you might just end up spinning your wheels. Some states are really strict and bureaucratic and others super loose. I would start where the car is going to end up and work backward. You might find that you don't even want to deal with certain states. For example, California keeps track of ALL vehicles, registered or not, and charges non-operational vehicle fees. If your brother is going to hang on to the car for a while in Michigan, he might need to title, register, and insure it. Here's the NC site - https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/title/transfer/ Here's Michigan - http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-1585_1587-76278--,00.html Here's CA non-OP stuff - https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr01

Sounds like you're thinking like I used to think. Focus on the part being worked on alone. I've since realized that it's often easier to just remove a complete sub-assembly. From where you're at now you could drop the diff and mustache bar and crossmember all as a sub-assembly. Then take it apart. You already have the half shafts disconnected. While you're there you can install that 5 speed.

Pretty sure that somebody found a late model heater core that would fit the Z car box with minor work. I think it was Captain Obvious. @Captain Obvious

Good idea to check what you last worked on, but your symptoms don't really sound like a slipping clutch. A slipping clutch will make more engine nose as RPM increase but the car won't go any faster. Lack of power seems more engine related. This might sound too simple and obvious but check your throttle linkage, even the carpet under the throttle pedal. Could be that your foot action wasn't translating to throttle valve opening. If you open the hood and contort you can see the end of the linkage at the throttle body, to see if foot movement = blade movement. The engine doesn't require much air when it's out of gear to rev freely so that could be misleading. Check your air filter and inlet also. A plastic bag or other debris could have been sucked in.

It's still a Z. But it's someone else's vision. And nobody has really mentioned quality of the swap. RB25DET swap is pretty generic. You can swap an engine in to anything if it will fit in to the engine bay, using pieces of sheet steel and not much else. Just saying, that all you really see there is a cool motor, the RB25DET, some flares, an air dam, removed bumpers, a decent paint job, and some wheels. The engine and the transmission are generally expensive to maintain also. Consider that. There's a guy on Hybridz who often chimes in with his story of buying what he thought was nice small block chevy swapped car, but finding out that the worksmanship was so poor he had to tear it down and rebuild almost everything. Anyway, beware. Lots of ways to end up with a pile of unexpected work.

You can see the weld seams from the floor replacement in your pictures. Actually, you should probably be more focused on "RB" stuff. They have their own sets of problems, with coil and oil pump failures, for example. The DET is a high performance engine so it gets beat on, of course. And they're bought from overseas suppliers, pulled from used/wrecked cars, if I understand right. Japanese Domestic Market, aka JDM. It's not an old Datsun L6. The Hubridz site has more RB folks.

You might have just cursed him. The hole gets deformed on the sides sometimes so sideways isn't the same as rotate. I used an old lug nut (same thread) to rotate the pin, to loosen it up and distribute the PB Blaster, and to beat it part way out, but rotating was much easier than sliding. I also used stacks of washers and a piece of pipe and other things to build a puller on the fly. But eventually I pulled the threaded end of the pin right off and had to beat the rest out with a long bolt.