Zed Head

Can't really go wrong any or all three of these - https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030 https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049 https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022

Looks like two compression rods are serviceable. With bushings. The firewall VIN patch might be intact. The car can be saved! (That's a troll comment. Couldn't resist.)

Just tired of zag's attempts to get people to join him in his "found' money club. He's the guy that throws the ID away and keeps the money when he finds a wallet. Hoping that that's not acceptable on this site. You can't have a discussion with him because he ignores your posts when they destroy his point, or he comes up with nonsense like at the top of this page.

I would add, that the basic issue here is that most of us don't want to hear about these kinds of things. It's not what the forum is about. We know they happen, but some things are best kept to yourself. If you shoplifted some parts from the auto parts store, don't come on to the forum to tell people about your "score". It dirties up the good stuff on the forum. And don't try to argue that the parts store sold you some bad parts so they got what they deserved, or everybody does it, or some other justification. Just enjoy your ill-gotten gains, alone. That's about it. You and your friends might have a "culture" where this is acceptable, it's just not acceptable here. Sorry to the members who might have joined in with their own stories. I'm not a saint myself, and could tell some stories from way back when but I don't do those things any more and don't talk about them either. Let's get back to the basics, and stop talking about how to scam the system.

Don't forget the Parts Wanted sub-forum - http://www.classiczcars.com/forum/21-wanted/

Hate it when people do that. Wasting time. Good luck.

Here's an example of what a person can do if they value money more than time (nothing wrong with that, or vice versa. Personal choice) or just want to mess around. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62575-z32-and-rb-cas-disassembly/

I spent some time dinking around with junkyard CAS's and the internet when I was thinking about modifying a later Nissan distributor/CAS for my L6. The basic photodiode technology hasn't changed since their introduction. I think that pinout might even be the same. You might find that you can swap in a later model CAS module in with minor modifications. Plastic tabs and hole changes. Look at the 90's Pathfinders, there's a ton of them dying these days, the yards always have them. I learned how to get that metal disc/cup off, the one you're working on, in the wrecking yard. Some of them were just plain stuck and would probably never come off. Locked on by corrosion. Some popped right off by hand. It's a very precise fit on the shaft. Here's something else to consider. The MS system generally doesn't work that well with the Nissan wheel, for whatever reason. DIYAutotune made a fairly cheap wheel for the application. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/

Didn't this horse get turned in to sausage just a short while ago? Selling parts from a car you don't have title to is what chop shops do. You can call it taking a risk, or everybody does it, or what else could I do, but it's all the same. Big picture, since it was a divorce, you're probably doing somebody's dirty work. Tainted parts.

The CAS doesn't have a resistance that you can check, like the pickup coil does in an EFI 280ZX. It's transistorized. Power supply to the CAS is important. Many ways to have problems with Megasquirt. Some people can't get a known-good CAS to work well with Megasquirt. It takes some tricks. If you insist/persist though, like JSM says, that piece just gets stuck and can be rocked or pried off. No need for a puller. But, better to describe your "big problems". I would stop disassembling your CAS now, especially if you barely know what an ohm is. Really seems like you might be on the wrong path.

But, on the other hand, there's really nothing wrong with staking the old nuts. They're not really "wrong". And it's simple to do. What are the odds that you'll be removing that nut over the remaining life of the car? Tiny.

Looks like you might be right. Self-locking nuts are distorted at one end to pinch the axle shaft and threads. You can see the press marks on this eBay image of the proper ZX lock nut. Your nut has the raised ridge, for staking. Here's what appears to be the right part number - 43262-W1200 Google it and you'll find some stories about these guys selling the old nuts in place of the new. MSA's page suggests that the 79-93 NA coupes used staked nuts but that doesn't seem right. Anyway, good luck. Your local Nissan dealer might have them on the shelf. https://www.ebay.com/i/322923795491?chn=ps http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4572

Tippy. Watch for tiny rocks. Nice on space though.

The wood HF dolly works great but the wood will slowly bend and sag if the weight is applied toward the center. Then the casters will rotate outward and it won't roll well. Easy to reinforce, or just make sure that the actual load points are by the casters.

What do you mean by "working"? Do they need to be flow-balanced? Or are you just testing fit and electrical? Would some old junky injectors work? Most larger injectors that people like to use are 11 or 14mm o-ring style installations, not hose based. The stock injectors use an EV1 connector also, not the most common. You can get newer style injectors for cheap at most wrecking yards.

Knock, knock...

I really did spend a lot of time on that lock problem. It was a pain. Then there was the window roller problem... I think that you could reach the critical parts through the gap between window and door also. Probably better and you might be able to see what you're squirting. Drop the window just a bit and your nozzle will be below the glass. Sounds like you already removed the panel, but if you decide to take another shot.

Those are wide spec ranges. Builders tend to open the gap if they expect a hot running engine. Even if you had stock pistons you'd probably still not have a clear answer. Those KA pistons aren't that much different from stock, and you don't have a turbo or anything special. Just avoid the small number and you'll probably be fine. Another interesting topic that we can spend lots of time on though. Thanks. http://www.acl.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/4-Compression-Ring-Gaps-For-High-Performance-Engines.pdf

I had a similar problem on my sat-for-a-long-time 76. I used to turn the key and hold pressure until it moved. Sometimes I gave up. One of my keys is still twisted. Doesn't sound like a key problem since the once the cylinder moves the tumblers are already fit to the key. One clue to me that it was a sliding surface problem inside the door poarts, helped by lube, was that it was worse when it was cold. I think that I adjusted the length of one of the rods also, the threaded plastic piece. Don't know how it got out of adjustment but moving it helped. Can't get to anything without removing the panel, unless you take out the striker plate, I think. Even the door handle and lock cylinder are attached from the inside. Then you can just hose lube in and hope you hit something. You could probably just take one screw out and bend a WD-40 tube. And hope. I spent a lot of time inside my doors but eventually got them working right.

When bending hard lines you won't know if you have an issue until you have an issue. If you want to buy some time until you get a chance to swap the wheel cylinders you can buy pre-fitted specific lengths of hard line at the auto parts stores and bend them to the application. Fresh tubing bends much easier than aged, already bent tubing. "Work hardening". Sounds like you don't want to get in to the shoes and hardware right now.

Looks to me like somebody put parts on the wrong sides. Probably wheel cylinders, and/or hard lines. The hydraulic hose should have only a smooth 90 degree curve, not a 90 then the 180 that your picture shows. The hose is entering its second connection from the wrong direction. Just guessing, based on the FSM diagram and your problem. 11" is the long hose. I remember your problem from the last time.

Found the one I was thinking of -

There is at least one thread on the site somewhere about a later model damper that was used as a replacement. I think it was available on Rockauto. Maybe search the words using the site's search engine, or use Google and "site:classiczcars.com" as a term. I think that it might also make the pump last longer. It damps the pressure pulses from the injectors opening and closing too.

Pretty fast. I had one that made a farting noise sometimes as the actuator vacuum pulses changed. That's a fairly fast frequency.

Fixed my error in #102 about the smaller "A" being the "later" event. Confused myself this morning. german240 ended up with more duration on both valves so might be better off in the long run.