Zed Head

Put it on BAT as-is and see what happens. Somebody might pay more for the complete package. Those low numbers...people love 'em. You should retitle your thread to "I found 903".

It might flex it like the steel exhaust manifold does to manifold bolts.

Might want to move that up. The guy in the white house is implementing travel bans. He just did all of Europe.

So the "real" question is why do they let the curve go flat...? Not the actual numbers. Here's a 72 curve that goes flat at 2000 RPM, 10 degrees advance. On top of initial, 17 degrees, it might be only 27 degrees total. All in 27 degrees at 2000 RPM. Not sure really which advance goes with which initial. They give distributor numbers in one chapter and car options in the Tuneup chapter. I assume that high initial would go with low centrifugal advance.

AC Delco would be good. Watch out for counterfeits though. I'd buy from Rockauto, I think. If you rebuild your ZX distributor you could use a GM module but the ZX module has the same features. Current-limiting and high energy. I don't know about the brands available though for the ZX modules.

The seller is not a parts maker. He's just selling Z stuff. That bar is probably a one-off. https://www.ebay.com/usr/metalmilitia767?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Looks like the guy only had one? Maybe it blew up his engine and he wanted to make a few dollars.

Piston speed, and combustion chamber volume, varies dramatically with crankshaft position. If you created a plot of chamber volume with time, there would be a long stretch where it was close to its minimum, almost unchanging.

Is that Highway 99?

Did you get the gland nut off? Not clear what's stuck.

So, VIN fraud? Should be interesting getting title and tags. I see the funky choke knob on the console. Did they have that in 73?

The back glass survived whatever crushed the hatch? Or the intact headlight. Wheels?

I think it's just colliding asymptotes. You're asking why did "they" stop, or why is the effect there? I wonder if it changes with a turbocharger. Get away from the 14.7 psi limit.

The size of the outlet holes would determine pressure. Can't tell if they're too big or not. Not really much data to tell if it will work correctly. The cork gasket seems too thick and not right for the application. Good concept, functionality unknown. Send the guy a message and see if he has some more info. Even a video or picture of the bar squirting oil.

But who is Dave Andrews? http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/

It's an interesting topic. http://www.iaeme.com/MasterAdmin/UploadFolder/IJMET_06_09_005/IJMET_06_09_005.pdf

Got $33? https://saemobilus.sae.org/content/940546/ https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/940546/ https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/940547/

Maybe the benefit of more advance tails off itself. No need for more. Or...black hole. You could compare to what the pros run using electronic engine control. Seems like there must be some dynamometer studies out there somewhere.

The tires have tread. Might be 200 - $400 right there, depending on date. Drums, disc brakes and rotors. Engine. It could sit in a garage and be dream fodder.

Probably. It probably works now, those parts will make it better. I'm not an expert, I make my stuff work right, but can't say that it's "rebuilt". The guy with the parts in hand has the best feel for what's needed. Look through 246's writeup and see if you're missing anything. @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

https://komonews.com/news/nation-world/report-software-pushed-boeing-maxs-nose-down-4-times-before-crash

I seem to recall that the metal bottom bushing from a 280Z distributor would replace the plastic ZX one. Nissan just swapped materials.

It doesn't loo terrible. The most sensitive part is the breaker plate. Have you tried to rotate the unbroken one yet? Be careful. You might have enough thee to make one good distirbutor. And the magnetic ring is probably stuck to the bottom of the spiky ring.

Redi-sleeve + ream? https://www.timken.com/products/timken-mechanical-power-transmission-products/seals/redi-sleeves/

Might just be the hoses to the core inside the car that leaked. Not the core. They're hard to reach so it's easier to just take the core out of the loop.