Zed Head

I missed your objective in my last post. I felt comfortable plugging mine with a bolt and some muffler sealing ceramic goop because I realized that the fitting does not see much pressure, just high temperature and many heat cycles I turned my bolt in to a self-thread-cutting bolt by grinding a notch in the threads, and putting a slight taper on the nose. It turned in with a comforting level of force required. It was tight when done. It's been there about 20,000 miles with no signs of leaks or loosening.

The big hose is for between the tank and the fuel pump. There is none in the engine bay, for fuel flow. " One way to proactively prevent this problem is by placing a fuel filter between the fuel tank and fuel pump. A Fram G3 disposable filter is the perfect choice: It has 3/8" fittings (the G3 is really G3/8"). This works well with the 10mm Nissan fuel hose. "

Much of the Z car's plumbing is BSPT, British Standard Pipe Thread. Very close to NPT but no cigar unless you use brass or copper so the threads can deform. Probably where your supplier got screwed up. The taper is different, and the size of the small taper can be also, making them hard to start even if you do plan to mash up the threads. http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals Read up on the oil pressure senders for more examples. I ran an M16 bolt in to the remains of an EGR tube, to plug it. Maybe you could make your own fitting by tapping the inside of the piece you pulled, to whatever thread you want. Bend your own tube. Essentially building your own EGR tube. Edit - McMaster Carr has a selection of BSPT stuff.

Post a picture. We love pictures. It's probably denser than oil and will just sink to the bottom, IF it even makes it there. It will probably just sit on top of the head, IF it cracks apart. But really, it's probably fine. Poke at it with a screwdriver, and see if it's friable (word of the day!). If it's not, why worry?.

Somewhere in the past somebody's trans got damaged by a GL-5 spec oil and ever since there's been the "all GL-5 spec oils destroy yellow metals" boogie man. There are GL-5 spec oils that work fine in yellow metal transmissions. But the safe bet is a fluid that specifically calls out manual transmissions, and/or yellow metals. There must be more on that mystery can of oil that the word "Shell". Big picture wise though, the transmission is sensitive to the fluid used. For a a few extra dollars you can avoid a lot of trouble.

So, basically, you rewired some wires that you already had wired and it started. I wouldn't see that you followed it step by step because I can't see your steps. Anyway, have fun and carry on.

So, problem fixed? Or grammar problem?

How? You have to tell what was wrong if a bunch of people have made suggestions. If you've read about GL-4 and-5 then you know that the wrong fluid can destroy your synchro gears. So the equation is - do you feel lucky? Is there a brand name and description for the oil or is it mystery fluid?

Which manual? Did you run the tests in the book from the link I provided? You're just reporting random things, like "Pin 10 has no power, Pin 1 has power". Report the results of specific tests and the test itself. Confirm that you have fuel pressure in the rail. Just because the pump makes noise doesn't mean that you have fuel pressure. Don't connect wires together unless you know what they are supposed to do. Try this simple test of the coil-Pin 1-ECU circuit and its operation. Connect a wire to the negative terminal of the coil. Let it hang in air. Turn on the key. Tap the wire end to ground. Every third tap should make the injectors click. You should get a spark for each tap also.

You've kind of come over to my side and are rephrasing what I said. Field results are data, the more specific the better. Anecdotes about "my buddy tried it and said it's "better" are 2nd hand stories, vaguely told. No offense to anyone who'd done that, but there's a principle called "cognitive bias" that describes how people generally think that that what they're doing or using is better. They see what they want to see. That's why we measure things and put numbers on them if we can.

Anybody notice that the bids went, 5,000, 18,000, 19,000, within 2 days, then stopped? Seems sketchy to me. Doesn't make sense. Why would somebody jump in 13,000 over the last bid?

Where'd you get it? Did it have instructions?

I'd bet you'll find just as many anecdotes about Redline. I have one myself, but it's specific to a certain problem. I just like a good solid decisive-making process, not 2nd hand, I know somebody stories. They're a good starting point but not something that should be used to make a firm statement. I don't even use Redline so don't have a dog here. Just talking about the process.

So cold weather shifting is the improvement? Notchiness? For Zup. What was your experience? I don't want to badger you but I always like to see the data. You made a firm statement of superiority but it's not clear what, exactly, is better about it.. There are so many different qualities to transmission performance that they need to be defined before you can say better or worse.

How do you know? Curious. I know that people like both but haven't seen the one-to-one comparison results. Diff noise in the cabin is usually caused by the way the diff is mounted. The diffs are inherently noisy. You need to get the bushings right to quiet things down.

Black door handles. Deal killer!

Somebody found the mid-point between a functioning PCV system and no PCV system. You're going to have to do better than somewhere else to do well with these cars.

This doesn't bode well, considering it's supposed to be "tuneable". 10 years without tuning? " Bosch 440cc injectors. Z31 ECU with Nistune board installed ... The engine is said to run a bit rich... " or this - While the clutch throw-out bearing is said to be a little noisey, it reportedly does not slip. $19,000.

Does the engine run? Does the alternator charge? Or are you just examining your non-running new project? There should be two wires, but some of the aftermarket alternators use one. Maybe yours is not stock.

I don't think that 1979 used the shifter with the spring-loaded bushing, did ti? The FSM shows the older style, not the ZX style. 1979 is a transition year for many parts, it's half Z/half ZX. The transmission itself is the same as the 1978 version. Edit - question answered, above...

You might consider leaving the rubber boots and leather off when you put it back together so that you can see the shifter action. Maybe the trim pieces are getting stuck in the gaps. It's the stuff you don't think about that isn't obvious until you think about it. Did the transmission shop mention anything specific? Did they check the roll pins in the shift forks, and the bearings in the adapter plate? A really good shop would have a check list to show what they inspected, and even a separate list specific to a problem, like shifting. Just saying, "we didn't find anything" doesn't mean they looked in the right places. Sometimes the good shops have been good for so long that they think they're infallible.

Won't Zedy have the shifter hole problem? Need to make it bigger or bend the rod. Minor mod but still something to plan for. The late 1980 ZX had the close ratio also, but with a .773 5th instead of .745. Broadens the range 1/2 year. About the same but a few RPM difference on the highway. The wides have a .864 5th.

I love what Blue did on that site, site, but, big-picture-wise he's just a guy guessing like us. Just looking for some definitive documentation. Fun to talk about too.

Those are aftermarket and don't seem to have a front or back. Does make things easier though. Or are you just messing with us?

Anybody know for sure what the proper orientation of the rubber TC rod bushings is? Is it inspected at the car shows? Has anybody ever been dinged for backward bushings? Relevant thread happening now -