Zed Head

That's two too many. You could bypass them just for a short test. Then you'll know something. Also, if you're careful, you can connect up your pump and lines and put some fuel in the tank and let it run. Don't let the battery spark. Not really clear what you're doing now. Is the tank out, or are those old pictures? What is your plan? Gotta have a plan. You can run a wire through those ports. The return line should be open, the inlet will have the sock on the end.

I think that you have too many filters back there. The EFI pumps are high volume "pusher" pumps, they don't like inlet restrictions. And they'll pass a lot of junk. People like to put the prefilters on (no offense to you guys that do) but they make the pump work harder. Can't tell from you pictures for sure, but it looks like you have a filter before the pump, then a smaller glass one after the pump. Then of course there's a big EFI filter in the engine bay. If it was mine I would remove all of the filters in the back by the tank, especially because you've cleaned and coated the tank. There should not be anything to filter out before the pump, unless you're buying dirty fuel. Set the system up just like Nissan did, they had a very coarse sock filter inside the tank and that's it. I've been running mine that way for about 60,000 miles, and my tank is not coated, and it has rust on the filler tube. The pump has been on for those same 60,000 miles and it sounds fantastic. I can't hear it.

Yes. That's why I mentioned the gland nut. Even the 240Z strut tube is smaller than 280Z, so even though the shock fits, the gland nut won't. As I understand things. Tokico had distributor problems a few years ago and never really recovered. I think that they might have changed ownership and things got very screwed up.

Sometimes doing will help the thinking. You're not doing anything. JSM's suggestion is good, because the only way for the pressure to drop if your FPR is good is for the injectors to squirt fuel. So, engine running is needed. But I would let the engine sit and idle, no driving. Or let the pump run alone and just listen. See if it stops running. But you need to try something. If you don'e know what the source of the problem is you might end up with two goods tanks and the same problem Believe us. Don't buy a new tank yet. POR 15 has worked fine for many, and you followed the directions.

Here's an informative thread. If you find one, make sure it's the newer style with the press-on spacer, not the welded on. You already have the gland nut so all you need is the shock body. 3038.

It looks like a pile of old boards with a Z butt sticking out. Pretty bad. It has to be full of mouse colony by now. Probably unrecoverable as a running car, based on my own 78 parts car experience. Mouse pee stench. Probably has some good parts though.

C'mon!!! Seriously? 4-5 mpg on one tank is well within the math error zone. Sorry, can't believe it. Beside that, cognitive bias (the urge to believe) would tend to lead one to drive very conservatively. Just saying, there's not much to go on. That is the nerdiest video I've ever seen, I think. I didn't watch the whole thing but I'm guessing that there are robot women at the end?

Saw this on one of the other Z sites. Turns out it's local. @Mark Maras (Mark, that yellow 280Z is still out there, even more buried). http://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/409577-selling-my-series-1-a.html Here's the CL link - https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/z/6256251890.html

What part number? Tokico often used one shock body for several part numbers, using a spacer to make up the total length, and sometimes just sticking another label on for different model cars. For example, the 3038 is the base for the 3012 and 3013 280Z numbers. I have a set myself, but missing a 3012. Not sure what the 240Z numbers are.

Exactly. Or their experiences. Some people have had broken rods, others haven't. You are a single data point. In my case, a major sign was that the groaning of the bushings went away when I replaced the back bushing with rubber. The groaning was loud and came straight up through the floor when passing over bumps. I think that if a person installed the T/C rod in its frame rail mount with PU front and back, but not connected to the control arm, then grabbed it and tried to pull it through it's expected range of motion they might find the effort extreme and be able to actually see the tip of the rod deflect and/or the back PU get crushed by the force. Maybe one of the resto guys has the parts to do that. The rod is a very long lever, and the edges of the PU actually act as levers on the tip of the rod. Flex, flex, flex, break. There's a metal sleeve with the kits, so you can't really overtighten on the PU itself. The washers bottom out on the sleeve. Doesn't mean that the sleeve is the optimum length though. We shouldn't overlook that the PU that most companies use is all of the same high hardness, and the same "fill the space" design. Not like the engineered design of the Nissan bushings. Somebody just went through and replaced all rubber with PU, with no apparent design considerations except shape. IT could also be that there are subtle differences nishape between the manufacturers. My kit of bushings came from MSA, on sale, and the only manufacturer ID I found in it was from Ground Control, for the steering rack bushings installation. So it was probably all a box of Ground Control bushings, I'd guess.

I had one break after using polyurethane on both sides of the mount. There have been several stories about it over the years that I've been on the Z forums. You commented in one I posted. This thread is about a bad rear wheel bounce anyway..

That's a good idea. Don't take any left turns at more than 2 miles per hour though.

It doesn't matter much. What you need is something that is simple and reproducible so that you can then make changes to find the cause of the low pressure problem. Run the pump in the garage with no distractions. Let it run until the failure occurs. Then wait until you can do it again. On the other hand. the last thing that you said was that the engine won't start anymore. So your new problem is a no-start problem, maybe permanent. The very simplest thing that you can do right now is to disconnect the starter solenoid, turn the key to Start, and observe the pressure on the gauge. If you can't get to pressure, then it's back to studying the fuel system parts. The suggestion to check the filter was a good one. It might be clogged, and/or the filter element might be wet I read the Red-Kote instructions and ity looks like you did things right. http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

@EuroDat has an EFI car, I think that he knows where to get parts. Better hurry before BREXIT kicks in. Have you examined the valves since you have the head off? Still odd that you got zero pressure in #1. You assumed rings but now say that they look fine. And it looks like you're rebuilding the engine with the block still in the car. Good luck. Make sure you find somebody who knows the L engine to work on the head. There are several ways to get really screwed up and spend a lot of extra money if somebody that doesn't know works on it.

Time to break your problem in to pieces, I think. Try this, if you can get the engine to start again - let it sit and idle. For a long time. There won't be any fuel sloshing around in the tank, just the pump pushing it around in a circle. Watch the pressure, listen to the pump and the various relays involved in supplying power. If it idles for many minutes (longer than three laps around the block at least), then you can focus on stuff in the tank. If it does the same thing as before, at least you'll have a clue, that's it not some large thing sloshing around in the tank Then, if you want to take the tank out of the picture, run your supply and return lines in to a gas can under or beside the car. Do the same thing, let the engine idle. See what happens. You can do the same thing as above, but without the engine running at all . Just jump the fuel pump relay or hot wire the fuel pump. Let it spin and push fuel. See what happens. Actually, that's what I'd do first, because it's quieter and you'll be able to hear the pump. You're trying to think about too many things at once. Turn the big problem in to several small ones.

You might also be able to lower the diff just far enough to get the mustache bar off without removing the axles and propeller shaft. Just a guess. Before you get carried away make sure that it's not just oil vapor blowing out of the vent, or leaking half shaft seals. Might make the decision easier. If you do decide to take it all the way out, I'd remove the mustache bar and everything as a sub-assembly, like they show in the FSM. It's heavier and bulkier, but simpler overall. Edit - as gnosez says, dropping the mustache bar with it is the way to go.

That computer punch card is pretty cool. I guess ones and zeros are the same in Japan. It says "4 speed" on the list of options.

You said that you already tested the sensor by the test in the EFI Book (assuming that you did it at the ECU connector since that's what the Book shows) and it was in spec. No reason to replace the sensor if the resistance matches the temperature, by the chart.

You might try removing the o-ring, and giving the outside of the sleeve a light sanding, removing any burrs. Then apply some oil and see if it will slide in to the proper depth. Without the o-ring it will be more apparent if the problem is a hard stop or a tight fit. If it goes in all the way you can put the o-ring back on and be confident in pressing it in. Typically, when I've removed these from old transmission, they always require a pair of large pliers and some twisting and pulling. They're normally a tight fit. If you looked at 10 of those on 10 old transmissions, 5 of them would probably have plier teeth marks on them.

The handle being nearly vertical is a sign that the shoes aren't adjusted right. I'd focus on getting the adjusting wheel to turn and expand the shoes. Also, get the self-adjusting mechanism to work. Could be that it's not assembled correctly, I seem to recall ways to get the parts together in a way that would jam up the adjusting mechanism. Maybe the shoes are on backward or upside down. They only fit one way, there's a front shoe and a back shoe.

You don't want to use those tires anyway. They're too old, and they've been sitting flat so they'll have overstressed creased areas. They'll probably all have a terrible wobble. I had a flat recently on a 23 year old car, and after putting the original spare on I realized that it had leaked down over the years. So I inflated it to about 50 lbs, so it would have pressure for another 23 years, and eventually put it back on the back of the car for future flats, after I replaced the flat tire. The sun came out, the tread delaminated and it exploded, just hanging on the back of the car with no weight on it. It only had about 20 miles total on it. You've got age and "being flat" damage on yours.

That's not really a very good way to describe anything. From your previous posts, the drop to 10 psi is your main problem. That should never happen. Either you're losing power to the fuel pump, or the fuel pump is bad and not spinning fast enough, or you have an obstruction in the supply to the pump. Focus on the pump and its power and fuel supply,

It might be just the collar. Look at Diseazd's picture. The collar ears need to ab ~92mm from the flywheel as he shows. Did you get the collar with the pressure plate, as a kit, or did you use your old one. Also, it takes a lot of force to move the fork. The length of the clutch pedal is a long lever and a leg is strong. The first thing that I would is make sure that the slave cylinder rod is producing force. Have somebody press the pedal while you watch it. You can push it back in to its bore by hand when the pedal is up. See if you can crush a piece of wood or a pencil using the pedal. That would show you it's producing force. I don't see any words about bleeding the hydraulic system. Also, people have been known to install the wrong MC. Confirm that the hydraulics and linkage at the pedal are right. The fork's probably not stuck.

Hey Diseazd 75mt280z appended his post to the end of this long thread. You might be replying to Ben's Z's 2013 post? 75mt didn't describe his collar. Nice diagram though.

To be sure and clear - you pressed the pedal to the floor, put the transmission in gear, but the car did not move when you released the pedal? I think that maybe you meant force but said pressure. Pressure is what's inside the cylinders, force is what pushes against the bottom of your foot when it's on on the clutch pedal. It's not clear, because there would be no reason to replace the cylinders if the clutch was stuck in the disengaged position. The clutch engages the engine with the transmission. It's kind of counterintuitive to interact with the clutch in order to disengage it, so easy to get the words backward.. You engage your foot with the clutch pedal to disenage the engine from the transmission. Anyway, if it's stuck disengaged that would be a clutch mechanical problem, or a stuck collar, not a hydraulic system problem. Just trying to figure out what exactly is going on. Edit - consider also a broken shaft in the transmission. Maybe the clutch is working fine.