Zed Head

Here's my 1/76 build date car horns. Crusty, no signs of letters. L brackets, "standing" on tabs.

zcardept's ad says it's a high tone horn. And it has an H on it. Might be a clue, don't know.

Can you push the piston in farther, to break the bond? Easier to push it in mechanically first. Once it's loose it probably won't take much to pop it out.

So the horns are the same, but the brackets are different...? The brackets should still be in Saint's car. A picture will show.

zcardepot says that 76-78 used the same horn. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-1976-78-280Z-Horn-High-Tone-OEM-Genuine-NEW-680/222686611201?hash=item33d9280701:g:OlMAAOSwY45UTt1-&vxp=mtr Here's a 78 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124393-78-280z-project-wps30/ Forgot to say, if you take a picture of what you have it might give someone the initiative to do the same for you.

Describing the problem helps understand it, is what I tell people often. Had to follow my own advice. I found a decent Remy "Gold" unit with about 3/4 left in the brushes, good resistance A to F, and smooth quiet bearings. Had a coupon, only $22 outlaid, with a $7 year-long return period extension. Got some sun, saw a bald eagle harassing the flocks of geese at the wildlife refuge next door...overall, a nice day in the wrecking yard. Got it home and installed and all is back to normal, had 14.5 volts at idle. Then found a couple of places on eBay that sell rebuild kits. $30 for bearings, slip rings, regulator and brushes. I might swap the Ford regulator for the kit's and maybe keep the Ford bearings, depending on quality. But I should be ready for the next go-round, whenever it happens. A good rainy weather project.

There's a drawing in the FSM.

Alright, that was something different. Back to our regular schedule... Thanks for the help. Sunny and 65 out here, so I'll probably go test wrecking yard alternators now that I know what to look for. The good remans cost over $150 at the parts stores.

It goes back to 14.3 when the RPM get low enough. Sometimes even idle wasn't low enough, the light only went off when i was lugging the engine at take-off. But, with Google as my guide, and my $6 eBay service manual, I was able to get it pretty well figured out. Attached some pictures. The only test it failed was resistance across A to F. 3.3 ohms instead of the 5 limit, the "hung brush" test. Wasn't really hung, just gone.

Here's a shot of the test instruction overview. Of course, "S" does not mean Sense. Gotta learn a new language now.

Here's a shot of a typical alternator and regulator. There's a three pin plug with an A, S, and I. A jumper wire from A runs over to the small one pin plug. The back of the regulator has an A and an F terminal with F exposed for testing. Instructions that say "ground here to test" molded right in to it. The manual has a test procedure that illustrates checking the slip ring for grounding, a "hung brush' test using A and F resistance, some loose fuse and connection tests. All pretty interesting but it might just be more direct for me to remove it and take the regulator and brushes off and inspect. Pretty usre it has 75,000 miles on it. Debating...

It's a 2003 Ford F150 with 4.2 liter V6. Service documents are hard to find, I haven't found a wiring diagram yet. Yes, voltage drops to battery voltage. 14.3 at idle...add RPM...12.3...dash light comes on. I'd noticed some odd behavior from the radio noise that reminded me of when my old Nissan alternator crapped out. A day later the battery light started lighting, then going off at stop lights and from standing starts. I'm leaning toward the higher current of higher RPM causing a regulator fault, or bad brushes losing contact with RPM increase. I have a manual with a troubleshooting flow chart to go through that will show something, hopefully. Just happened last night. The truck came from a super dusty environment, so worn internals wouldn't be a surprise. I'll know more when I take it apart. Hoping somebody's seen similar. Even the internet only has two correct examples, with no resolution. Google keeps coming up with the opposite problem, no charge at low RPM, and I don't know how to make Google understand.

I have a charge light coming on my other car, but only at RPM above idle. I checked the system with a meter, and at idle speed voltage is 14.3, but anything above that and it drops to no charge. The reverse of the typical bad regulator or alternator problem. Kind of weird to see. Anybody have any guesses on what might be bad? It's a Ford truck, with the replaceable regulator attached to the back of the generator. There are quite a few videos pit there about replacing the regulator and/or brushes but I'm new to Ford land so don't know what works well. Still leary of remans and Ford truck parts are expensive.

Not sure, but I think I see a hook...

"ingine" several times, and absurd questions? I'm calling troll. Edit - but if you really are that "new" to cars, good luck. Don't mean to be abusive.

Plug wires are placed in backward rotation order in the distributor. It will run, but poorly.

Do you think it will tick when it's covered in oil? I can send the little gear out. Should fit a $6.45 USPS flat rate box, I think. That way it will end up in your mail box instead of porch. Do you want the spacer?

Is this the one Dave? More interesting to talk out here. Somebody else might know something. The bearing and spacer must have been in the vicinity when i took it apart Maybe the spacer positions the small gear to match the other gear, and that's where the noise is coming from. You might need the spacer too.

A new dealership might have to order it. And if they have new parts guys you might have to give them the part number. Or you can get it from Courtesy Nissan. It's been superceded a few times. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/41 https://www.courtesyparts.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=21200-V0100

I'd get a new Nissan thermostat from your Nissan dealer (I got one a few years ago, I think that they're still available) and install it as-received, no holes drilled. It's the most unknown of your unknowns. The boiling test doesn't really tell you much except that it opens at 212 degrees.

It's been discussed before but there doesn't seem to be a clear and easy solution. Looks like it's some sort of custom Nissan thread size. You might try an EGR tube fitting from another manifold and block the tube with a compression fitting or brazing it shut or similar. Here's a past discussion, no solution found -

Is it an autoscaling meter or do you choose a scale? It's just a three position switch, that produces very low resistance (continuity) or very high resistance, on certain circuits. The beeper function on a Fluke or similar might be a better test. You might be getting too far in to fine details. Were you using the 1980 book, and the tests shown for 1979 and later? Can't really tell what you did.

Over here we would never pay for a car without the title or a form from the buyer stating that they had lost it. Edit - or a Bill of Sale. You should contact the seller for those documents. I'm not sure how they shipped it without having them. The shipping company might have copies. They would need them to show that they weren't shipping stolen goods, I'd think. I just did a quick search and found this. I'd contact the seller to get the documents that should have come with the sale. Edit 2 - re-reading what I posted, it looks like the shipping company carries those documents with the car. They should have given them to you. https://www.wcshipping.com/europe

Seems like this particular buyer might have bought it as a car, to drive and enjoy, not a collector item. Nothing wrong with collecting. The videos on the BAT site give a good impression of looks and sound. It is odd though, since the engine "rebuild" was just a hone, rings, a new timing chain, and some seals. And the AC isn't hooked up so even driving it is limited to cool weather. Maybe they just like silver.

What documents did you get with the car? Over here, the two common documents to show ownership are the title and the registration document. Who is asking for the "certificate of origin"? You should probably ask them what they mean by that term. "Origin" could mean where it was shipped from so could even be a shipping company document. I doubt that origin means Japan. I'd bet that they need shipping documents, to show that it came from the USA.