Zed Head

Just do it for your wallet, or both. It has known history. Quick resto and sale, then start another project maybe. Although, the resto-mods seem to be doing well. Did you ever post the VIN? Some people want automatics. I hear they drive pretty smooth.

Good ingenuity. The other potential problem is the fork hitting the back of the hole before full release. Doesn't look centered, and looks like more than 6 cm. Might want to test it while the trans is easy to get out. The clutch system is super easy to bleed and doesn't take much fluid. Alrighty, that's my high-concentration Home Built catch-up. Good luck. From #67.

Here's the whole playlist of 240Z specific videos. This is what your sig should be. Porsche, Volkswagen, etc. just clutter up the page. No offense. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnidW9Wb_Djx4zNB2ykgV5usgGihI8dhW

Yeah, that is some weird stuff. 2:20 in the video. I'm not aware that the stud spacing changed on the diffs over the years. Maybe it did. Do you know your gearing? Of the transmission and the diff. You want low matched with high or vice versa. There's quite a range available. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJMua4Y-eP0&list=PLnidW9Wb_Djx4zNB2ykgV5usgGihI8dhW&index=67&t=0s

MEK would be the better solvent. The MEK rub test is an actual coatings test, to assess degree of cure of 2K type coatings. It's a people-power test but they've tried to make a machine for it. A look in to the world of paint. http://www.trl.com/paint_solvent/ https://gardco.com/pages/abrasion/mekrubtest.cfm

The forward mounted angle caused vibration. But it was only on the very early cars. They changed in 71 I think. The propeller shaft was lengthened also. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Power-Train/Propeller-Shaft I'm not following all of the videos, I have a short attention span and can't watch a video for more than a minute, but aren't your parts supposed to fit together? Or are you piecemealing? On your videos - if you add an index to each one, ID'ing certain operations like diff install, trans install, etc. by time point, people can go directly to specific parts. Might get you more viewers. The suggestion is mainly for me though.

I hope that the second garage is yours, not the first one.

Here's that measurement from outside. ~6 cm.

There have been several posts on this site and around the internet about the fact that you can't go wrong with your clutch parts if the measurement from the "ears" of the throwout sleeve collar to the flywheel surface is close to 92mm. There are ways to make the "wrong" parts work but if you have that measurement then you can use a common late 240Z-280Z clutch fork and 280Z slave cylinder. Not sure if it was mentioned in previous posts. Here's one of several threads where we talk about it. I've also measured from the fork to the slave cylinder bolt, to confirm from the outside if the parts are right. I believe that you have the engine in now so let's hope...

Some new posts on the BAT site today. The Scarab club seems even smaller and exclusive than the early 240Z club. Can't even see the information unless you have a Scarab, apparently. I wonder if there's a secret hand shake. And, Brian Morrow is apparently still around, somebody talked to him via phone. Must be fun to see so much excitement over what he started. $21,000 as of now.

The bolts on the side flange area are an R180. Plus you can tell by the cover. The picture that 246 grabbed from your video, in post #349, shows an R180 cover. R200's didn't show up in the Z's until 1975.

I remember spending a lot of time trying to find a better tool for the plug than a half inch drive "knob". It doesn't quite fit and tends to slip out. I can understand why the plug was switched in the video.

I'm pretty sure that these sites calculate how many users they lose against how much bandwidth that they can fill with tracking software and ads. A 56K modem used to be super-fast. The internet is not for information communication anymore, it's for commerce.

Well, you're not the first. Fidanza mucked up I'd say. Not looking great for you. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f505/my-clutch-fused-flywheel-208321/ http://www.instazu.com/media/1834535177267711847 But there is hope...

The fact that you got a little bit of green on your rag means that it was starting to dissolve a bit. It's probably meant to cure, like a 2K paint, but maybe it didn't get a full cure. I'd still call Fidanza, their number's on those documents, and tell them what's happening. Who knows, they might have quality control problems, and you need a new one. You did what the instructions said to do. Good luck. Still laughing over STYLE.

If you got it in to reverse with no problem, that wouldn't seem to be the issue. Plus you said that you can see the slave moving. I'll bet this new coating they came up with absorbs certain solvents and gets soft. I'd call them, they'll know. STYLE coating.

Put the car in to high gear and have somebody push the car while you press the clutch pedal. Or vice-versa. That should break the disc free, if it's going to break free. It sees a lot more abuse in normal service.

Alright, it gets weirder. Since it worked once, you might be able to just break it free and break it in as Fidanza suggests in this document. I'd call Fidanza directly and tell them what you did and what's happening. Weird stuff with poor communication on Fidanza's part. Good luck. http://www.fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/NEW-GREEN-COATING-ADDS-STYLE-PROTECTION-.pdf

Here's a picture, and instructions. I don't know what the green stuff is. Seems like aluminum might be anodized. That green looks pretty thick though. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-186501/media/instructions https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/FIZ-FIDANZA_PERF_Flywheel_Instructions_2013.pdf

I'm not familiar with the green coating but generally, the metal surfaces should be clean metal. No coatings. It sounds like that green coating might have been meant to be removed completely, and that you did glue the flywheel to the clutch disc. You should take it back apart and clean those surfaces and you can probably save the parts.

Here's a good older thread about that. Not much room past 44. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/49057-l28-bigger-valves/

Nissan used some pretty strong thread sealer on the fill plug. The plug in the video has been out before, it's not stock. I had to use heat to get mine out. Not red hot but enough to expand the aluminum cover and soften up the sealer. I could only turn the plug when the cover was warm, when it cooled down it got tight again. Good tips on removing the control arm caps and loosening the cross brace. You can also loosen the mustache bar nuts and let the diff drop slightly. With support under it of course. Here's another tip - never try to refill the diff if it's 40 degrees F in the garage. It will take forever.

Are the injectors the stock "green top" injectors? And have you measured the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor? That test is in the EFI Book. Could be that the PO installed "turbo" injectors. Never know. Or adjusted the AFM. Or that your coolant temp. circuit is open. Try moving the AFM vane by hand and see if it runs better. You can move the weight under the black cover. Close it and the ECU will supply less fuel. Might tell you if the AFM could use adjustment. Your fuel pressure looks pretty good for what you're experiencing. Here's your other thread -

In the video the guy says that it has 4.11 gears. The video is watchable if you turn the speed up to 2X.

Interesting that it still has an R180 diff. Looks like it's seen some speed bumps too. Crinkly sub-frame rails. The trans mount seems a bit off. Even I would have at least rounded the corners. Edit - in the video the guy says that the owner swapped the 6 speed in. Probably when the new trans mount was made. Probably not a Scarab part. Still a nice looking car though.