Zed Head

I've been looking at that Nissan drawing for years and I keep realizing that they put a lot of information in it, but it is still unclear. In the "Before" picture they show the number 1 on the right side and number 2 on the above left, on the perimeter of the sprocket. In the after picture the 2 is where the 1 used to be and 3 is on the left. But they don't clearly say if the before picture is the 2 position or the 1 position. It would make sense to have the position hole at the top. But they don't say. Anyway, based on the notch and groove your cam timing is correct and you should be fine. You're about halfway to needing an adjustment. It is odd though that your groove is below the perimeter of the sprocket base in that picture. Also interesting that there is apparently 16 degrees of play in your chain, since the groove did not move at all, but the damper did. Not sure what to make of that. So, there you go, much discussion but still wondering. Good luck! I'm going to browse around and see if I can find an original notch and groove picture with numbers. Maybe somebody has one?

p.s. 2 it looks like you think that the sprocket is already on #3. Can't tell because you wrote over the actual number! Anyway, The other first thing I might do is to just set the damper at TDC/zero, remove the sprocket and replace it at a position that looks right. Use a chain holder tool. You can make your own out of wood.

Looks like a PO adjusted the sprocket already to position 2 or 3. If you put the timing mark on zero (TDC) (like you're supposed to) the notch will be after the groove. Like "after adjustment" in the FSM. It wouldn't be from chain stretch on position 1 because that would delay the camshaft mark (before adjustment). Make sure also that the tight side of the chain is tight. The left/driver's side. Another possibility is that your damper is starting to fail and the timng mark has moved. And, that looks like 16 degrees, not 12. If it was mine I'd remove the #1 plug and try to confirm that the piston is at TDC. Then see where the marks are, and see if you are on position 1, 2, or 3. You might be able to see the tensioner also to see if it is pushed out. p.s. it's a chain. Good luck.

Might find something here - https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1970+240z

Weird how complex the whole fuel filter market is. Few details and what looks like poor conversion skills. 10 mm = 3/8"...not. Here's a couple from the local store, one with paper media, one with bronze. One about 4" long, the other undefined. One special order, the other available. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/spectre-performance/spectre-performance-fuel-filter/spt0/5965?q=Spectre+Performance+Fuel+Filter+-+5965&pos=0 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/trans-dapt/performance/filtration/fuel-filters--universal-/383bc52af696/trans-dapt-3-8-inch-inlet-3-8-inch-outlet-fuel-filter/tdp0/9177?pos=3

They're cheap too. Main problem is the 8 mm (5/16") nipples. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200

Don't overlook that the pressure drop is affected by the area of the filter media. Not just the pore size. So, a larger diameter filter will be less noisy. It would be interesting to try one of the big 280Z EFI filters as a pre-filter. There's a reason there so big. Lots of surface area in the pleated media. Also, if you're filtering to save the pump don't over-filter. The clearance inside the vane-type roller pumps is pretty big. Certainly greater than 20 microns.

You need to add more detail. When, and exactly where? There are three "lugs". Actually two lugs and a spade. SteveJ is asking about the spade (black and yellow wire). With the key at Start. The 12 is a good sign though.

Slide hammer is not a bad idea, but good look finding that thread pitch. I have vague memories of using a rag and a pair of vise-grips, with a hammer tapping sideways on the pliers. Or maybe a big screwdrive levering on it. Anyway they do get stuck. Nothing special in there. I found a new Z store. TotalZPartsDatsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX Speedometer Pinion Gear...NOS (new old stock) speedometer pinion gear full assembly, including the sleeve, seals, and the retaining pin. It has a 17-teeth gear & measures about 3 1/16" in total length. 18, 19, & 20 teeth ge...

Are you sure? The diagram shows a left side and a right side, from the Hazard switch. It's a 78, I didn't look at any other diagrams. The Hazard switch is basically a gate between power and the flasher, and the lights. Since the flasher comes in to play the short to power has to include the flasher circuit. Basically it's just completing the circuit, like a short across contacts inside the switch. Interesting problem. For what it's worth, I erased about three different paragraphs about this problem. Writing about it does help the brain work...

$137,000. Kind of amusing that the bulk of the discussion on BaT was about AC and undercoating. Bring a TrailerVintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Vintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #199,214.

That cam doesn't look very aggressive. Not like a typical rumpety-rump muscle car V8 cam. Probably won't cause a problem. I've seen belt-driven vacuum pumps. You could probably add one after the fact if you find that you need it. Looks like you can get electric also. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/vacuum-pumps-street

On second thought it might be the Hazard switch. Lots of mysteriousness in there. It has power when the key is off. @SteveJ seems to feel comfortable with it. "even when car is off"

Pretty easy to remove. Something I learned - the ring around the ignition switch will pop out about 1/8" to allow you to remove the plastic shield around the column without breaking the corners off. Appears to be designed for that purpose.

It's probably the mechanism in the combination switch. Not likely to be the flasher. There is no separate turn signal relay.

A 71 is up on BaT. Oddly, it ended up in Florida with an Illinois title, after having "spent time in Texas, Arkansas, and Oklahoma before it was acquired by the seller", Bring a Trailer1971 Datsun 240ZBid for the chance to own a 1971 Datsun 240Z at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #200,055.

Are you sure the horn switch isn't stuck? The control side needs to be grounded to actuate the relay. Seems like that would have to happen before it could get "stuck". It's on the relay bracket.

So, on the All Activity page, you can click on anything and it will take you to the end. So, this would be the page to start from when not signed in. But...the page lists all posts instead of all Topics. so there's really no need to click through since they're all right there in the list. Oh well. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/

I think that Mike just changed things. Now, everything takes you to the last post, signed in or not. And the comments show on the Activity pages, although I have not tried all of them. So my thread is irrelevant now. Try it out and see what happens. 1/2 Thanks Mike. Actually, only the comments part has changed.

The comments are focused on the AC system for some odd reason...

A person could ask why any of the old 240Z's sell for high price. Or why people pay high prices for Bob Sharp cars. Or why first edition comic books sell for high prices. Collectors have their own values. Here's an article about the program. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/nissans-z-store-restored-240zs-might-not-have-made-the-company-any-profits-but-they-did-help-save-the-z/ Old pieces of colored paper sell for six million dollars! https://www.cnn.com/2024/04/05/style/superman-comic-record-6-million-intl-scli#:

I have found that there are two basic starting points to use when looking at the CZCC forum to see what's new, when not signed in. The first one shows the text of the last comment in a thread. But if you click on any of the options to open the thread all of them take you to the first post in the thread. This is no good if you want to see the latest comments, more than just the last one. So you have to click, click, scroll to get to the end of the thread. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/112/ The second will take you to the last post directly if you click on any of the options, but does not show the text of the last comment. It just shows that somebody commented. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/ Just an observation. Not all of the Activity pages are the same.

Never mind. I erased my internet history and the problem went away. Didn't know that "cookies" could do that. I think I had clicked on something by accident. Back to original programming...

Is anybody else suffering a barrage of ads on the forum? Just started. I'm signed in and even getting pop-ups even though I use Adblock. Never had this problem on the CZCC forum.

Yikes! Also see some nastiness in the comments, (468!), from 2020. Didn't read through them but Lstepp4re seems involved. I don't keep track of all of the players on BaT so not really sure who he is. It's up to $70,000.