Zed Head

How much was in the tank when you added the 1/2 tank? Might be just bad gas. But the falling flat when you punch it sounds like a bad accelerator pump. The diaphragms crack, I think. Vague old memories. And, don't overlook the old mouse nest in the air box. They can work fast.

Lemon-lime/green-yellow race car ready to get towed back on to the track. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-36/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-07-15

And MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3491 Rockauto. I'll bet your local auto parts store might even have them. NAPA maybe. Give them the Standard part number and they can cross-ref. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector+seal+/+o-ring,13679

https://www.yalemedicine.org/news/5-things-to-know-delta-variant-covid

No politics, focus on COVID didn't last long. https://covidactnow.org/?s=2040960

Doesn't @Dave WM have a 75? @wheee! has a 76. Maybe they can pop those fuses out and see if the turn signals still work. That's the test, right? Fuses should be removed and checked every now and then anyway, especially on these old cars. Here's some others I found. @fusion 1976 @carcrazyken 76 @280z762021 @76280z @bhermes @Barefootdan 75 @Cruzzar 75 @ernesto75

A magnetic part picker might help.

Never mind.

My post wasn't helpful. On the blind hole alignment - there are no tricks., except maybe to surround the area below with a rag or plastic so that when you drop parts they can be easily found. Wait until you try to get the clip on after you get the pin through.

Probably won't know until you're in the middle of it. Hope for the best, plan for problems. Remember that you'll probably be tilting the engine down at the back so there will be more room to slide the transmission out. I think that's your potential bind though, having room to slide the transmission back past the end of the headers, without hitting the body in the tunnel, before you can drop it down. Just a guess. Don't let the fan blades hit the radiator.

Here's 1975. If the fuse box cover changed in 1976 but the diagrams didn't I'd say it's just an oversight on Nissan's part. Or the change happened mid-1976. There does seem to be more than one version of the 1975 FSM. I have one that has many typos and errors. Maybe there are multiple 1976 versions too.

And the 77 (published 76) FSM shows fuse 3 on the cover.

I sold my 76 otherwise I'd have an answer right now. Should be able to pull the third and /or/then fourth fuses and see what happens. I'm going to go with the BE-12 diagram is wrong. The fuse box cover has a lot more expense invested in it. Does 77 have the same issue? I've never been sure if there is a "real" 77 FSM available on the internet. The ones I have downloaded look like 76 FSM's. Actually, I just opened one of my 77 FSM's and it shows publication in 1976. Which makes sense for 77. And it shows turn signals on fuse 3. So, it looks like the "76" FSM might be wrong. Page BE-10 from the 77 FSM. That's one of the beauties of the old Z cars. So many layers to peel. It's not just a sports car.

That would be correct. Green/Red is the power supply from the fuse box. Green/Black is the wire that gets grounded when you press the horn button. Green is the wire that sends power to the horns. If you're seeing power on two wires without pressing the horn button then either the relay is bad or the Green/Black wire is shorted to ground. But, also, if you're seeing power on the Green wire but the horns aren't making noise that means that the horns either don't work or are not connected to the Green wire like they should be. Connect only the Green and the Green/Red and see if you still have power to two wires. You should only have power at Green/Red. If you have power at Green that means the Green/Black is shorted somewhere o the way to the horn button or the horn button is stuck. Green/black goes to the horn button in the schematic. And, check the bottom of the relay. It probably has marks, H, B, and S. H is Green, B is Green/Red and S is horn button (probably stands for Signal?, maybe).

Which wiring diagram are you using? The 1976 Service Bulletin describes some changes from 1975. Might be worth a browse. And the eye-straining black and white diagram downloads with the 1976 FSM. It's actually a very crisp copy, compared to some, still just all thin black lines. I got mine from a different site though, not 100% on the CZCC version. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/5-service-documents/

Where did you get the drawings? What year and car are they for?

How about a neutrino? When I had that bad ECU it died immediately. So that would have been loss of injection. I've also had a failing EFI relay that almost stranded me, but that was a restart of a hot engine problem, not a dying while running problem. Many old electronic parts that might have a momentary failure. I think that the red and green wires have low voltage at low RPM. Probably no real "jumping" ability, you'd need contact with a ground. Have you examined the wires around the breaker plate? One thing that is unique to the idle condition is that the breaker plate is at its lowest advance state. The red and green wires do get worked a bit as the plate rotates in relation to where they leave the distributor body. People have reported problems there. Unusual though.

You have now entered the gauge hyper-awareness zone. Watch those needles. Try to remember exactly what they were doing just before it dies again.

That's a setting in the software though, right? Can't remember your system, but you have electronic timing control? The verification of what's happening during driving is the key though, as you suggest. Get those numbers.

Anyway, on a more practical level. For those thinking that they'll be able to travel outside the country soon. Maybe a cruise ship? https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/travelers/map-and-travel-notices.html

The point is about policy. Often entwined with politics, but not the same. Many government officials in the US with a certain political leaning still made decisions based on science. As far as my posts, you have to watch the video. Dig in deep, then comment. Or at least click on the "Show more" link under his name and you can read a summary. Look at the graphical data. The UK is going to allow a large surge of COVID cases (if I wanted to invoke politics I'd mention how they're calling it Freedom Day). That's geography, not politics. The video talks about long COVID and it also presents the views of over 120 scientists (I think, not positive on number) who describe what is probably going to be the result of the decision. The scientists think it is a bad decision and will lead to a greater burden on the citizens of the country. And may lead to stronger variants that will affect the rest of the world. https://www.thelancet.com/journals/lancet/article/PIIS0140-6736(21)01589-0/fulltext Excerpt - "As the third wave of the pandemic takes hold across England, the UK Government plans to further re-open the nation. Implicit in this decision is the acceptance that infections will surge, but that this does not matter because vaccines have “broken the link between infection and mortality”. 1 On July 19, 2021—branded as Freedom Day—almost all restrictions are set to end. We believe this decision is dangerous and premature."

I think that Mike asked us not to get in to politics. Way too much rationalizing to be useful. We have real numbers and science now to guide decisions.

Wonder where sweatybetty's been?

This guy's presentation today is pretty fascinating in a macabre sort of way. It is what it is, but worth tracking. Won't be a surprise if travel is blocked. Plan ahead. Edit - actually travel is blocked right now. Not going to change soon, I'd assume. https://ourworldindata.org/covid-cases

I'd put the timing light on it and make sure you know the distributor is working right. I just remembered going for a test drive many years ago with a friend right after he did some work on his truck's engine, and he remarked that the engine seemed like it had lost power. We were climbing a small dirt hill at low RPM. I said it felt like the timing was retarded and he realized that he had left the vacuum advance hose off. Put it back on and the pep came back. Might be that you don't actually have any advance mechanism happening so you need 25 initial just to make it run half-decent.