Zed Head

A thought I had but never tried is to use spring compressors on the front springs to stop the car from lifting as the weight is removed. Not uncommon to run out of lift if you're using a cherry picker. I had a chain hoist from the rafters so had plenty of travel. Do your lifting calculations before you start. Siteunseen/Cliff mentioned using a rope and a block of wood through the shifter hole to lift the back of the transmission if you install the engine and transmission together. I always learn these good ideas after the fact. I had a heck of a time trying to lift it from underneath the car to get the crossmember under it. There's just no room. Didn't have a load leveler either, but those only have so much adjustment anyway.

This is the number in question. It's not the numbers as much as the obvious grinding marks.

Actually it was Nicoclub and it looks like they resolved their issues with Nissan. FSM's are back up. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=240sx%2F1991%2F1991_240sx.pdf Here's the main list - https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

I have the Nissan 91-94 240SX FSM if you want to use. I'd have to upload it. Got it from ??? before Nissan shut them down. Describes the basics of the ECM timing control. Might be your IACV. Mike might want to consider Nissan copyright stuff, not sure why they shut Xenon down. I could put it on a Google drive too.

Take a look at the Stop switch wires. Your brake lamp jumper wire is a sign that somebody was trying to fix a problem. Might be better off to go back to original and see if you end up with the original problem, which might be easier to solve. You're working around somebody's hack now.

The guy might not realize that the pad has been messed with. His response to the comments on BAT will tell something. Somebody in CA did something before he bought it. Might still be a fine 240Z, just not "numbers-matching".

If you search his name you'll find that he should know these things. He's supposed to be a car "aficionado". He has a business selling classic cars. Not really a "poor seller". http://georgelyonsbuyscars.com/ https://www.linkedin.com/in/georgelyonseriepa/ https://leakecar.com/cruising-with-car-aficionado-george-lyons/ https://www.goerie.com/article/20150126/NEWS/610095671

The wiring diagram shows both circuits passing through the Hazard switch. T/S and Stop seem to be on the same wire. I think the 240Z circuits are different than 1976. Not really sure how the various bulbs and filaments are controlled. Looks complicated. Is three bulbs (six bulbs) for brakes normal? The diagram shows Tail as independent. Might just be too many filaments on one fuse.

Same car, before it showed up on BAT, if the VIN's are correct. Click Details. https://www.myhotcars.com/1973-datsun-240z-coupe-c-800.htm https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-170/

260Z did not make the reserve. $24,750. Seller disappointed. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-45

Have you confirmed proper fuel pressure? The stumbling as you lower air flow (adjust the idle screw) suggests that you're low on fuel. Might be pressure. Reptoid's link suggests that timing is being controlled by the ECU to control idle speed since that's the only thing it can control electronically. You might put a timing light on it and see what it's doing when it's hanging. What year KA? What type of engine control?

Is it an automatic? Nissan's diagram is poor but it shows a relay used for the automatic. Might be a rusty relay. I think that manual transmission cars just used a straight shot from the ignition switch to the solenoid. Could also be the ignition switch. Or the power supply to the switch.

Check out the Netherlands. They "re-opened", plus there was the big Euro 2020 soccer tournament and their caseload is shooting for the sky. Like hundreds of people all got infected at the same time. The UK hasn't even lifted restrictions yet, that happens in a couple of days. Fascinating stuff. The Olympics will be something to follow. Coming up. https://ourworldindata.org/covid-cases

The constant power wire maintains the settings of the device. He's probably losing that one. A meter or test light would tell the story.

Seems like there's enough information out there for people to make a choice. That was my point in the post with the vaccination-risk comparison. The same people are coming up with the same arguments, here on the old car site. Anything can be rationalized. Just ignore the data and do a Google search. One of the great ironies of the situation though is that the ones that are claiming their independence are the ones that will most likely need help. And the ones that are trying to help will be the ones that are the most independent. Kind of absurd but that's where we are. Good luck to both sides. Edit - also amusing that two vaccinated patients dying, and two professors (actually just one) are being used to argue against millions of real life data points assessed by hundreds of well-educated professionals who actually work in the area under discussion. But that's how rational minds work, they rationalize.

Stereo brand?

https://apnews.com/article/coronavirus-pandemic-health-941fcf43d9731c76c16e7354f5d5e187

It's kind of becoming background now but at least it's skewing more toward free will and choice. Those who choose to take the risk pay a higher price. Of course, though, they'll take some innocent people with them, just like speeding or driving drunk or smoking. Things are getting more Darwinian.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/rebuild_kits/

A slightly modded 73 240Z with a California Datsun engine. Wonder what kind of parts it has inside. It sounds decent. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-174/ A replacement L28 2.8-liter inline-six was reportedly sourced from California Datsun and installed in 2016. https://www.californiadatsun.com/engine/long-block-short-block-engines/

Here's an old thread that might have some clues. Might help also to to take the other side apart and see how it's supposed to look.

Edited - getting too grammatical.

It's a small block chevy with a Holley. Not a whole lot to inspect. The bowls have a sight glass, right? Should answer the bowl fill question. You can look down the barrels when you work the throttle for the pump. The bowls come off pretty easily for draining and inspection. That's why they're a popular carb, I think. Easy to work on.

There is a ton on the site and around the internet about when the fuel pump gets power. 1976 has the fuel pump contacts in the AFM. The way to test for pump power is to remove the yellow solenoid wire at the starter and turn the key to Start. Not clear how far you're turning the key.