Zed Head

Just remembered that one reason the switch gets so hot and damages the solder joint is because the contacts get pitted and burnt. You really need to take it apart and inspect. I went through a similar situation on my 76. Resoldered them but they eventually fell apart again. Resoldered and added relays and they only see relay current.

A longer cheaper one. The long punch is very useful, I have this set. I still think the SteelStik has a chance. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-punch-and-chisel-set-66337.html

They probably went out of business because the design worked so well that if you lost the key you were screwed until you could get a new key. If you had a long drift (aka drift pin) and were handy with it and the end was shaped right you might be able to turn it that way by pounding on a projection. But, any slips and you're gouging the rim. https://www.grainger.com/product/4RPL7

Kind of looks like split steel meant to flare out and grip a nut...

Can you post a picture from the side? A person can see the square shapes at the bottom but they don't look very deep. Sure does look more like a cap on a nut. Have you tried grabbing it with Vise-grips and pulling it off.

This will work if you give it time to cure to full hardness. Are you sure it's not a 10 spline? https://www.brandsport.com/bmcc-79241-1.html Or 8... https://www.brandsport.com/search-results.html?query=+Spline+Lug+nut+key%2C+Wheel+lock+key+&x=91&y=23

https://www.harborfreight.com/high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-4-pc-62851.html

Sometimes the solder joints on top of the switch just break off after a billion heat cycles. It's difficult to get them soldered back on, and be durable to the heat cycling. You can put a relay in front of after the fuse box for the headlights though. You have to find the wire up under the dash for the parking lights to install a relay there. That will take the load off of the switch and it won't see the heat. You'll find more complicated relays setups that also take the load off of the dimmer switch. But the dimmer switch doesn't seem to be bothered by the currant like the switch on the steering column is. Bend these four tabs back and you'll be able to see if the switch can be salvaged. There are loose parts inside so be careful.

Just a follow-up for confirmation. What's being said is that the two outer holes of each set of three holes on a 240, are equidistant around the perimeter of the flywheel and match the 225 plate bolt pattern. And the locating pins are the same. Has this been confirmed? I had both in my garage and never tried a 225 plate on a 240 flywheel. And, you could even use a 240 pressure plate on a 225 disc and 225 flywheel. The excess pressure plate would just hang over the edge of the disc. And, you could let excess 240 disc hang outside of 225 parts. All these years and turns out all of the parts are interchangeable.

Here's something I tried on a spare tire locking nut that worked. Find a socket that fits over the nut but has a small gap between it and the nut. Fill the socket with a ring or blob of SteelStick, press it over the nut and let it cure. You've just made your own "key". It is amazingly strong stuff. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick

Take it apart and flip it.

Picture?

Did the guy's machine measure the direction and position of the rear tires to confirm that they were correct? I know that today's machines can measure all kinds of things but if he saw that the rear wasn't adjustable he might have not measured it. Maybe the rear wheels are set forward and/or back. JMortensen has posted in the past about the early Z's having mis-drilled strut castings, causing the spindle pin to be misaligned, misaligning the transverse link (aka control arm). The Z's were the poor man's sports car. Not of BMW quality level. A shot of the printout from the machine would be interesting.

I did not know this. That, plus the equal weights, would explain why the manufacturers dropped the 225 only flywheel. It's just not necessary. I wonder why even call it a 240 mm flywheel. Seems pointless. 7.5 mm extra friction surface diameter.

Drill down through the middle of the nut to remove the stud. Then replace the stud after you get the wheel off. Even if you start doing this and change your mind or find a better way it won't make the nut harder to remove.

They don't show any in the Body chapter dimensions, see below. If caster is the same then it would have to show in the top strut mount area. Those TC rod bushings are pretty squishy and tend to degrade over time. 1/4" one way on one side and 1/4" the other on the other side and you get 1/2". I think that when you drive the car setback and caster move all over the place. The rear end is suspended in rubber also.

I sent the guy a message on eBay and he sent back a picture of the VIN from the firewall. Says that he thinks something rubbed on the ID plate and wore the paint away. He doesn't know what happened with the door. I suggested that he join CZCC and discuss but I think he's just a guy who came across a Z and is flipping it. You can kind of hear it in his video. Anyway, it looks legit, I think. The interior looks in great shape for a sun baked part of the country.

Sounds cammy. The guy rolled the camera right over the 260Z but didn't say anything. Maybe it's a stroked L24. https://secureir.ebaystatic.com/cr/v/c1/usvvp-20191119/index.html?video=https%3A%2F%2Fvideo.ebaycdn.net%2Fvideos%2Fv1%2F2d35f92d17b0a4d48d412bb1ffffea3c&thumbnail=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FMTIwMFg2NzU%3D%2Fz%2FUAAAAOSwzHZhEbfM%2F%24_1.JPG%3Fset_id%3D8800005007&title=1971 Datsun 240Z Coupe Orange RWD Manual series 1

I missed that. I can't tell if it's scammy or not. Might just be an old beat up 240Z. No obvious signs of fraud. Looks like somebody screwed up and used a powerful solvent on the ID plate though.

The zcarsource description is wrong on the clutch kit, turbo and 2+2 are the same parts. Can't exclude one and include the other. Edit - actually I see that what they did is to just add irrelevant information and leave out other relevant info. It could be turbo, 2+2, or turbo 2+2. All 240mm. But you might have the right parts. The pictures match. Looks like the 240mm clutch setup. The parts that you said are on the car look like 240mm also. So, odds are you'll be fine. 92mm is the critical measurement. https://zcarsource.com/transmission-service-kit-240z-260z-280z-72-78-new/ https://zcarsource.com/clutch-kit-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-74-83-non-turbo-2-2-81-86-turbo-new/ https://zcarsource.com/flywheel-manual-transmission-260z-280z-280zx-74-83-2-2-and-turbo-new/

That is normal. Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear engine mount. The engine weight is not centered over the two front mounts. Holding up the back of the engine is one of the more difficult things to do when removing the transmission. People use a cable on the hood latch (bad idea) or a block of wood between the valve cover and the firewall (still bad), but a jack under a block of wood on the back of the oil pan is probably best. Use the car's scissor jack and you'll be able to adjust the angle when you install the transmission. Probably why most people install the engine and transmission as an assembly, but forgot to mention that. And, even worse, if you didn't slide the transmission under the car before you installed the engine, you'll have a hard time lifting the car up with the engine in, balanced on a scissor jack. There are other work-arounds but the tilting unbalanced engine is normal.

How can you tell? Actually looks like a pretty nice rust-free car. Utah.

There are some pretty deep conversations about hub caps on the forum pages. 240260280 has done quite a bit of research on them, you might search his name. There are reproductions out there. You can find them on eBay but sometimes they're passed off as original. Scammers.

https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q=harmony01&quick=1

There's a drawing in the FSM. It's in the Body Electrical chapter.