Zed Head

Forgot to say that you can wire up a GM HEI module to both the Z and ZX electronic distributors.

I did a quick shoparound and can't find the E12-80 module, for the ZX distributors, for sale anywhere, new. Only eBay used is out there. I did run across a Mallory Unilite module for $83 on Summit. Pertronix conversions are still out there. You could use one of those to trigger an MSD6AL or a GM HEI module. The Pertronix module should last longer since it won't see the coil current. Or it might be fine as-is. The 123 looks nice in that it seems to have current limiting in the module so you can get a higher energy spark, and the advance curves are tunable. One problem with old used distributors is you get the advance curves that they came with usually, unless you can dig up other weights or vacuum advance canisters. Fun problem to have. Good luck. https://123ignition.com/product/tuneplus-6-r-v-datsun/ 123ignition is proud to announce the first fully programmable Bluetooth ignition! Control your 123\TUNE+ with your iOS/Android smartphone or tablet. The App makes it possible to adjust the ignition curve and shows an electronic dashboard. Main features: REV-counter, Antitheft system by a PIN code, Real time tuning, Vacuum advance, Boost retard, Soft REV-limiter, etc. Cylinders 6 Model Tune+ Operating voltage 4-15V Positive earth supported Yes Wires Black: coil '-' , Blue: battery negative , Red: ignition key (battery 6V / 12V) Vacuum Yes Rotation direction CW & CCW IE (D-jetronic support) No RPM range 500-10.000 RPM Brand Datsun Environmental temperature -30 – 100 °C Cap type Straight Dwell Constant current: fully automatic adaptive dwell Coil charging time-out After 1 second, coil current is turned off Spark balancing <0.5 degrees Maximum advance 40 degrees crankshaft

Do you want something that looks "factory" or time period correct or just something functional? With the 123 you don't really need the MSD unless you want the multi-spark. I would beware of the old names. Many have been sold to conglomerates that source the manufacturing to low cost overseas factories. If it was me I'd look for a system that has readily available replacement modules. Some of the old name brands are expensive to fix if the modules fail.

Wasn't offended. Just surprised that you used a term from the 1980's!

I saw your comment @siteunseen Did you break a rule? 🔨

Reading a story about Craftsman tools and found that they were owned by Stanley Black & Decker. Also learned that Stanley and Black & Decker had combined, back in 2010. Very much like Holley. Pretty soon everything everywhere will be made by a single company. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Craftsman_(tools) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Black_%26_Decker https://www.holley.com/

200,000! - 139,500 = 60,500

It continues. Bid with confidence! Just posting for amusement. People can spend any way they want to. It does seem like there are small cliques of car collectors out there that buy and sell to/from each other. Interesting.

They are really pumping up the roadster conversion Z. The latest comment suggests it's worth over $200,000. Weird stuff. Looks like it already sold once with the 454, although internet data might not be reliable. https://www.classic.com/veh/1971-datsun-240z-roadster-conversion-hls3042112-4r2RLE4?tab=history https://www.mecum.com/lots/1093787/1971-datsun-240z-custom-roadster/

Are those standard size pistons or oversize? Might help the sale. Today's piston selection is limited. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,engine,piston,5620

Bright light and a magnifying glass will tell you a lot. Inside of the cone at the end of the metal line and outside of the cone down the hole. You might see a crack or deformation. You could even polish the surfaces if they look rough. Also polish the surface that the fitting rides on. It needs to be smooth so that the fitting can apply even pressure across the bell shape at the end of the metal tube. Focus on the surfaces that make contact. The threads are only there to apply the force.

From the 70's.

The guys with the money, so funny. If they had their way people would have to pay to comment on the cars. The high end BaT car auctions are more like a big money poker game. Who's bluffing who. They don't want to know until the sale is over. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/

Considering the cost of parts today ($20 half shaft bolts, see previous thread), this 2+2 might be worth collecting just for that purpose. It runs, but has a 4 speed. Looks like an R200 also. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-22-27/

Which hole? You could probably buy a small selection at your local hardware store for a few dollars. Try them out and you'll know.

I wonder what this means -

It wasn't meant to be a link, just an abbreviation. Something in the browser or forum software does that automatically, I think. ithink.com link.com thislinkwontwork.com

EFI/pump relay. Which one did you order? You didn't say. Don't overlook that the pump relay is controlled by the switch in the AFM. And that there is no "prime" like on today's vehicles. The pump relay is energized by the AFM switch or when the key is at Start.

There's a driving video now. Speeding up and down an airstrip. Lots of woohoo comments. It's an interesting endeavor. Pretty dangerous for an unskilled driver. I wonder what the weight distribution is. Sitting at $30,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/#comments-anchor

Not trying to be snarky, but isn't that what the ammeter is for? Seems like the cause of the problem was a bad connection that got fixed while disconnecting and reconnecting connections. I almost replaced a starter once because of that, and diagnosed a T connector problem at my alternator after I learned that lesson. Examination and adjustment with a pair of pliers (give the female side a squeeze if it's loose) is probably worthwhile on everybody's vehicle.

Maybe the spade connections at the adapter plug just lost contact. "New" connector in to old connector. Would have showed up with the T pin voltage check. Next time... Might explain the "meltiness" of the adapter also. Poor connections can produce heat.

It got a nice price when it had the L6. $46,200. Not sure that 454 is going to add value. I'd guess most of the aftermarket parts went on after that sale. No driving video yet. 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN HLS3042112 | Hagerty Valuation ToolsHave you seen this 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN HLS3042112 auction result?

I was describing its function, not the actual material wire. The trigger wire for the new tach is its own independent circuit. I was also trying to tease out if you're replacing the stock tach or adding another tach. Are you sticking the new tach in the hole where the old one is? Your other basic question might be "how do I keep my ignition system functioning if I remove my factory tach?". Since they are tied together in the 240Z's. Just breaking the "how do I connect my new tach?" question in to its elements. Seems like you're on top of it. Good luck.

Everything you need is here on CZCC.com The relay you show is not just the fuel pump relay it's a combined fuel pump and EFI relay. The relay that EuroDat showed is the proper replacement. It was used from 1975 through 1977. In 1978 Nissan separated the two relays. Nissan calls the EFI relay the main relay. They don't usually rust like yours because of their location. I'm still impressed by the challenge that you're taking on. Remember to check for shorts to ground before connecting the battery after you fix things. Those original pictures look like a wire fire waiting to happen.