Zed Head

You have to change the hole in the lever, not the ears, to change the ratio of travel between the top of the lever and the bottom of the lever.. Travel of the bottom of the lever will be the same, it will just be higher up, if you only drill the transmission ears. The bushing at the bottom of the lever slides up and down in a cylinder as the lever tip moves back and forth. Another way to get a shorter stroke is to cut the top of the lever down. You can simulate that by holding the lever lower when you shift, if you want to gauge the increase in force needed. The downside of the short-stroke.

If you're only moving it next door, a couple of cheap Harbor Freight dollies under the rear wheels might work. The BR chapter of the FSM shows how the brakes work (see link below). You can see the mechanism behind the rear wheel. if you crawl under the car It's usually the rear brakes, not the front. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Ironic that the very thing Google wants to jam through my eyes in to my brain is the one thing keeping me away.. The internet is a strange thing.

Testing with pressure up to the cap limit plus a couple sounds like the way to go. If you wanted to get even more real-world you could dunk in a bucket of hot water, since a crack might open up when heated. Or you could just fill it with epoxy since you don't need heat. Or plug the inlet and outlet.

I haven't tried it yet. I'm not really a big texter but sometimes I get in to the middle of a big textorama and have to try to keep up.

I don't have any blockers or anything else added on. No extensions or plug-ins. It shows now. It was probably related to the other problem that I still have, just very slow loading classiczcars.com. The site just timed out on trying to load the image. The only thing that might be different is that my browsing history and cookies get deleted whenever I close my browser. I'd say that's probably the source of my problem. classiczcars.com loads either bunch of cookies, or it loads some that my system doesn't like, or it's loading something else. It seems to me, that with such a narrowly focused viewer base that you could forget about Google ad-sense, and the tracking cookies, and the spyware, and just choose your own ads. Solely focused on cars, and tools. It's the constant tracking and spying and following that slows down all of the internet sites. And for not much gain. Think about how much simpler things would be. And how much more comfortable we'd be, not seeing ads supposedly related to something we viewed on a completely different web site. Or that someone else here viewed on a different web site. K.I.S.S.

I get the the white space in site's pictures even when clicked on, and there's a broken link in Mike's.

You'll stir up the debris that would normally just sit on the bottom of the case, and disperse it through the various bearing surfaces. Flushing the transmission is not specified by any manufacturers as a maintenance procedure.

I had the same problem a couple days ago and it turned out they were actually loading completely. They were either displaying before they were done loading or they were not displaying correctly the first time.

Here it is

Someone had a similar problem recently and it was a giant vacuum leak. I'd find the thread and post a link but I can barely do anything on the site recently, it's very slow. Good luck.

Deleted. A waste of time, and just locks in the bad stuff.

The factory cap is not a vent. It lets air in, not out. That's another reason that zKars' suggestion is probably on target. Your new cap is the wrong solution to your other problem. Besides air coming out around the filler entrance, air also escapes through the vent hose up to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. Sounds like your venting system is screwed up.

You have the unleaded style, with a little flap that the gas nozzle pushes open. But air should vent out above the gas nozzle as fuel enters. Poke the little flap open with a screwdriver and take a look. The sun is at a good angle in your picture. Take a closeup with the little flap open if you can, might be easier to blow up a picture to see something.

You have to attach them or provide a youtube link.

There are two transmissions in the CL ad, a 4 speed and a 5 speed. Can't believe how prices are rising. I'll have a gold mine in my garage pretty soon. Hoarding might pay off.

Venting problems do sound likely if you have the unleaded "shutter". But even most shutters have vent holes built in to them. Somebody with a 77 or 78 filler style would know better. On my 76 you can look directly down and see your reflection in a pool of gasoline in the tank.

Sounds like something is blocking your filler hose. The hose is big, you should be able to see all the way down and in to the tank, from the top, in bright sun or with a flashlight (edit - actually this might be harder to do on a 77 than a 76). You should also be able to poke a long skinny rod or stick down in to the tank also. Could be that a PO has done something weird to your filler hose, maybe got a kink in it. When filing the fuel should drop directly n to the tank, no obstructions at all, if the filler hose is properly attached. You can also take off the inner panel and see the hose from the inside of the car. That's where some people get gas fumes from, leaks in the filler hose, inside the cabin.

Most of the reading I've done about vapor lock, some before I ever had a Z, was about the line before the fuel pump. The pump can't pull vapor so keeping it liquid before the pump was important. The link that Mark provided describes percolation. Which is a different problem. For the EFI systems it seems like hot injector bodies is the problem. Hence the fans and other remedies from other manufacturers. Your problem of not starting after several days might be related to fuel volatility. We all assume that gas is gas and it's been the same over the years but in reality, there are no regulations about what the manufacturers can sell as gasoline, as far as I can tell. The manufacturers have an agreement but it's all about keeping the whole big giant automotive machine going. My EFI engine starts best if I give it a few starting revolutions to get some squirts, then let it sit for 10 or so seconds so the fuel can vaporize. I don't know if you can work up a similar routine for carbs but maybe....

The blower might help. Odd that the nozzles appear to point directly at each carb. Could be that they designed it for carbs, then switched to EFI, then finally broke it out for the ZX's. Wouldn't be surprised if they had all of the tooling ready to go for carbs but avoided implementing it.

Did you get one of the old timey mechanical VR's? Or sold-state? From Rock Auto? I don't see that anyone measured voltage at the AC compressor power wire. That would be good to do. The compressor clutch grounds through the mounting points, apparently, actuation comes when power is applied through the wire. There's two relays involved. But you can start at the end of the line and work back. 2nd edit - I had wrote something about the blower motor then second-guessed myself. but it looks like the blower motor is in series in the circuit that actuates the second relay. It's an interesting diagram. Still, test at the end and work backward.

It does look like they covered all of the bases though. Tach problems, wiring diagrams, etc. All of the issues that people report when working the MSD box. Looks too new to get much feedback though. Good luck. Weird that they started a separate web site for it though. moreignition.com? What does that mean? http://www.moreignition.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/0018-008813.pdf

Found it - http://www.moreignition.com/ They seem to be really focused on a flashy presentation, without a lot of real-world data. It's just another CD box, with some tweaks to cover the perceived weaknesses of MSD's box. Multiple spark all the way to redline. But over a 20 degree span. Shiny ignition box, two color options, 6061-T6 aluminum (irrelevant to ignition performance). It will look nice, but you might be a beta-tester.

Never heard of it. How about a link?