Zed Head

Here's a good thread and its link.

I think my logic on the pistons might have been off in my other post, but it really seems like those pistons are stuck closed or the throttle blades aren't opening. I think that if you were lean you'd get some popping or bucking. But you're just describing nothing happening. Maybe your oil leaked out or viscosity changed.

If the car was in gear and engine turning but the tach dropped to zero that's a sign that you've lost spark. But there are many ways to lose spark, from complete power loss to everything to a bad ignition module. It's one of those clues that you can build on. Your fuel pressure probably stayed high when it was running rough because the intake vacuum was low because it was running poorly. It was probably the other way around, pressure dropped as it started running smoothly. Just a guess. Trading cause for effect. You're at the point where it might be worth your time to try an HEI module. It's a good thing to know anyway because the old ignition modules fail on a regular basis. It's just a matter of time before yours does, if it's not failing already. You can get a BWD brand at any auto parts store for about $25. That's what I'm using now. I actually have an old 1978 module in the garage that I had wired in to my 76 for a short while, after my original module failed. I don't know where Ridgeland is and don't know when I'd have time to package it up, but if you get in a bind I might be able to get it out to you. But, long-term, it's just another old module on its last legs anyway. Better to go with the HEI.

Any chance the exhaust system is involved? Also, just to distinguish between an RPM limit and a power limit, could you try up-shifting early? AKA short-shifting. See if you can go faster even though you can't get the RPM up.

There is quite a bit out there about bad solid state external regulators. I don't think that you can classify them that way. Just pick a quality brand.

If I read the operating description in the FSM right, the pistons control air flow and the pistons are controlled by intake manifold vacuum. So, basically, if the pistons don't rise to let more air in then the engine is effectively throttled. I'd like at where the pistons vacuum source is, and if it's possible that it's blocked or lost. Maybe the carbs are loose, causing a big vacuum leak, or there's a fitting or plate that's loose. Seems like the pistons must not be responding to intake vacuum is what I'm implying. They're probably open a certain amount for idle and low RPM, so you do get some response. It's a neat concept, but the carb's air opening is controlled by a secondary mechanism, the piston, not a primary one, like a throttle blade. If your throttle linkage is working, seems like it has to be the pistons. Assuming that the other engine parts are correct, like ignition and cam timing. I could be way off, I'm just using your problem to learn SU stuff.

It just presses and snaps on. Plastic on plastic, if I remember right. But the plastic bits on the inside are usually worn. Look inside the chrome cup-shaped piece and you'll see the remains of what was supposed to happen. I had to pick up some wrecking yard parts to get one that would stay on. Never mind, those are 280Z details. Looks like 240Z is different. I looked at your picture.

It's always at 2500 or it's standard for when the engine dies? And did you power the fuel pump to get the 25 psi, or just look at the residual pressure? Here's an old story I bring up sometimes - I've had my 76 and a 78 parts car both refuse to start when I had the tachometer removed. The 76 also refused to start when the tachometer resistor fell out (I had unwrapped it from the harness just to get a look at it). To me that would imply that if the tachometer circuitry was messed up enough inside that you could get a no-run condition. It's an odd thing and the phenomenon went away after I switched to a GM HEI ignition module. But it seemed like the quality of the signal on Pin 1 to the ECU must have been affected to cause it. You could test your system by removing the tachometer inline resistor and seeing if your engine will start. If it doesn't it's at least a possibility that the tach is involved. Doesn't give you much direction but I suggest staying open-minded. You have a weird problem so it might have a weird cause. The GM HEI module swap is very simple, wiring-wise. You can bolt it to any car part close to the coil, as a test, if you wanted to invest $25 and some time.

Can't really tell how the dome switch works. Those types of bulb holders are often loose, I think. Like fuse holders. You're 90% there with your meter measurements, you just have to figure out how to get the bulb ends connected to what your meter shows. Sometimes the poking action of the meter probe will cause a contact that goes away when the pressure is released. If you're seeing a ground circuit though, at least you know the ground circuit is available.

Do you have a meter? You can check the specs against factory. I'm guessing that you're on a budget? That's not one of the Rock Auto products for the 260Z. Here are the specs for the 260Z coil and the resistor. Looks like Datsun was shooting for about 1.5 to 2.0 total. I can't find specs for the C-632 out on the internet. Amazon's site says it's not a fit for the 260Z but without specs, who knows.

Probably some new business major hire saw an opportunity. They seem to be getting some feedback. They're thanking people for it. https://twitter.com/photobucket?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author https://www.facebook.com/photobucket/ They've made the big-time news - http://www.pcmag.com/news/354711/photobucket-breaks-image-links-across-the-internet https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/06/30/photobucket_charging_400yr_3rdparty_pgs/

Some states will issue "trip permits" that are recognized by other states. They're usually good for 30 days and allow the new owner to drive the car to its new home, to be titled and registered there. If you're going to title the car in Michigan, you probably don't need to title it in North Carolina. If you're going to transport the car to England you might not need to title it at all. But there are probably customs rules that need to be addressed, I'd guess. If the owner doesn't have a title in his name then it's a whole other world of forms and fees and waiting, maybe. There could be a lien on the title, or it could be salvage. Better put a list of steps together before you even make an offer, or you might just end up spinning your wheels. Some states are really strict and bureaucratic and others super loose. I would start where the car is going to end up and work backward. You might find that you don't even want to deal with certain states. For example, California keeps track of ALL vehicles, registered or not, and charges non-operational vehicle fees. If your brother is going to hang on to the car for a while in Michigan, he might need to title, register, and insure it. Here's the NC site - https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/title/transfer/ Here's Michigan - http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-1585_1587-76278--,00.html Here's CA non-OP stuff - https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr01

Sounds like you're thinking like I used to think. Focus on the part being worked on alone. I've since realized that it's often easier to just remove a complete sub-assembly. From where you're at now you could drop the diff and mustache bar and crossmember all as a sub-assembly. Then take it apart. You already have the half shafts disconnected. While you're there you can install that 5 speed.

Pretty sure that somebody found a late model heater core that would fit the Z car box with minor work. I think it was Captain Obvious. @Captain Obvious

Good idea to check what you last worked on, but your symptoms don't really sound like a slipping clutch. A slipping clutch will make more engine nose as RPM increase but the car won't go any faster. Lack of power seems more engine related. This might sound too simple and obvious but check your throttle linkage, even the carpet under the throttle pedal. Could be that your foot action wasn't translating to throttle valve opening. If you open the hood and contort you can see the end of the linkage at the throttle body, to see if foot movement = blade movement. The engine doesn't require much air when it's out of gear to rev freely so that could be misleading. Check your air filter and inlet also. A plastic bag or other debris could have been sucked in.

It's still a Z. But it's someone else's vision. And nobody has really mentioned quality of the swap. RB25DET swap is pretty generic. You can swap an engine in to anything if it will fit in to the engine bay, using pieces of sheet steel and not much else. Just saying, that all you really see there is a cool motor, the RB25DET, some flares, an air dam, removed bumpers, a decent paint job, and some wheels. The engine and the transmission are generally expensive to maintain also. Consider that. There's a guy on Hybridz who often chimes in with his story of buying what he thought was nice small block chevy swapped car, but finding out that the worksmanship was so poor he had to tear it down and rebuild almost everything. Anyway, beware. Lots of ways to end up with a pile of unexpected work.

You can see the weld seams from the floor replacement in your pictures. Actually, you should probably be more focused on "RB" stuff. They have their own sets of problems, with coil and oil pump failures, for example. The DET is a high performance engine so it gets beat on, of course. And they're bought from overseas suppliers, pulled from used/wrecked cars, if I understand right. Japanese Domestic Market, aka JDM. It's not an old Datsun L6. The Hubridz site has more RB folks.

You might have just cursed him. The hole gets deformed on the sides sometimes so sideways isn't the same as rotate. I used an old lug nut (same thread) to rotate the pin, to loosen it up and distribute the PB Blaster, and to beat it part way out, but rotating was much easier than sliding. I also used stacks of washers and a piece of pipe and other things to build a puller on the fly. But eventually I pulled the threaded end of the pin right off and had to beat the rest out with a long bolt.

What does the tachometer needle do when it's "losing fire" or runs unequal? It's a spark counter. Can't remember your car. Are you running carbs or EFI? Have you tuned it up recently? Spark plugs get dirty and gap increases as the electrodes wear.

If you can measure power and you can confirm ground then you should get light. You forgot to describe the year of car - 1977. B is on a switch that's right there at the light. It's push-on, push-off switch. BR runs through the door switches, which are only closed when the door is open. But they do get stuck. Mine were and needed some contact cleaner and working back and forth to get right. You might just hook your meter up to B and/or BR and work the switches to make sure the ground is good. That's all that they do, supply the ground. If you have power to the terminal at the bulb that's connected to blue/white then the problem has to be the grounding. I copied the page from what I think might be the 1976 FSM, not really sure. I know I sent you to Mike's copy but I'm not really sure what year that is and don't want to run the application that's required to unzip it. I got mine from nicoclub.com Anyway, here it is. It's probably the same. It matches your wire colors too, but it's on a different page.

What brand and model of coil did you get? We can tell you if it's right.

There are people that will act as transaction agents for things like this, for a fee. There are a few threads on this site from people who didn't get what they thought they were getting. Even the shipping companies can make mistakes.

Beermanpete had the best suggestion then, in Post #3. Just make sure that the coil specs match. That's probably not the problem with your tach though. But good luck.

Pretty sure he got it running. He used "turn" when he meant "fire" or "start". theab, locate the source of the leak first. Can't really decide what to do if you don't know where it's leaking. Check the bottom of the radiator, the hose to the heater core, the back of the cylinder head, etc.

Loose S. If it's in the harness it will still be there with the new/reman alternator. Loose L might do it also. No winding current means no charging. The loose parts could be inside the alternator. Guess you'll find out. Those studs in to, through, the case can come loose. When you remove it, shake it hard and see if anything rattles.