Zed Head

Just noticed that Patcon has some nice parts for sale. A very nice looking shift knob, if you want something that looks good. Mine are still available, just saying.

PM me an address and I'll see what the charge is. Looks like CO might have another source. Winorama.

I have one. Should work. PM me and address and I'll see what shipping costs.

Here's the two. One is a 75/76 unit that I picked up for cheap, A31-060 001, and the other came on my 1978 parts car. A31-604 000. It has a working fuel pump contact though, so I used it on my 76 for a while. They both work, with the tweak, so you'll have to overcome the quease of destroying a working part. Or just put it back together when you're done. They both have the backfire valve in the vane.

I think I kept those. Out there somewhere, I'll look. That's a USPS flat rate part, I think. I'm not a big shipper so if somebody knows the cheap ways, chime in.

I would second that, IF he was measuring across the switch. Unclear what he measured.

delete.

There are two sides - one to the lights and their ground point, and the other from the power source, You only reported one number. Break out that circuit testing knowledge. This is a very simple one, power on one side and device on the other. It's just a switch, a break in the circuit. Button in, circuit made, button out, circuit broken.

The switch at the brake pedal is a simple on-off switch, actuated by the pedal positon. It should have power to the connector at all times. That would be the simplest place to start I think. If there's no power there then you'll know which side to work on to narrow things down. Crawl up under the dash with a meter and see what you find.

Which switch? Which car? Have you checked the fuse? You should add your car description to your sig. It's in your profile.

Anybody using the Opera browser? I just downloaded it and set it up with bookmarks, and it's pretty nice. Google pissed me off when they wouldn't "recognize the device" I've been using for years to log in to a Gmail account, and would not use the other security methods. Phone only. I think it's a scam to keep all devices connected so that they can do more tracking. Google sucks.

I have the valance corner that connects to that cross piece that we all scrape on the parking bumpers. Actually have both in really nice shape, hanging in the garage. Doubt that I'll ever replace mine, but they looked too good not to get, when I was at the wrecking yard. If you can put a list together, I'll try to fill it. I have a paypal account. I'll put it in the PM's that I send. Rather not broadcast to the world, so please keep it private. I'm paranoid.

I bought a plain old parts store replacement radiator from OReilly auto. The mounting holes and flanges needed minor adjustment but everything else fit and it works great. I think that almost all of the steel replacement radiators are made at the same factory in China, and just have different names on them. That's probably the cheapest route, and if there's a problem you can just drive to the store and get a replacement.

I just remembered something that I'd read in the past about Fidanza flywheels - some of them are thinner than the stock flywheel, apparently So they'd need a taller collar and the 92mm number might not be enough. If you have the factory flywheel you'd have enough to figure it out.

I think that's where his steel rule is sitting. Looks right. Next check would be the MC, assuming that the system was properly bled. There are two seals in the MC, one to move the piston and generate pressure, the other to keep the fluid inside if the first piston fails. If you didn't already have it apart we would have asked you to press the pedal and measure how far the slave piston moved. Since it's apart, I'd try to rig up a device that will hold the slave piston in its bore and see if pressing the clutch pedal forces it to move. Might take some ingenuity. But, the pressure plate and collar look like a good matched set. p.s. You know, if you put the wood on the top and the steel rule on the side you wouldn't have to do the conversion math. Just saying....

CO, do you promise to consider developing a method for using a late model MAF sensor in place of the AFM? At least I've planted a seed. I have at least one with a lean spot at low-to-mid RPM that I can send out. It needed the coolant sensor tweak to work well. I'll send you a PM when I get it out and boxed up. Odd, but the factory AFM's pass emissions here better than my MSA reman AFM, even with adjsuting the idle bypass. But the MSA reman' is smoother across the range. Maybe mine is unique, but it has made it a pain every two years. ensys, I don't have any bumper rubber. It would be on my 76 if I did. I have one tail light socket but I am waiting for the fix on my car to fail so I can use it. Don't be nervous to ask. I'm thinking of making a move and realize I have a lot of stuff that might end up at the scrap yard if I have to move quick. My car is pretty well sorted out, and things aren't breaking like they used to.

Is it out now? Take the measurement shown in my picture. Should be around 92 mm to the surface the fork rides on. You don't seem to be measuring anything in yours, the tape is just laying there. The bearing looks right.

And don't forget to add some heat to the parts as you're pulling them. Typically has a huge effect.

I wasn't clear on what you were trying to remove. Looks like the adapter plate is in the way for my suggestion. How about a cheap Harbor Freight bearing splitter? Designed in two pieces to fit around the shaft. Doesn't have to do any splitting but would give you the "suitable plate" shape to pull on. Here's an example. I think that they make cheaper versions. Maybe you can borrow one at OReilly Auto. Might give you ideas on some sort of collar that can do the same job, also. https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html

I have a garage-load of 280Z parts. 1978 EFI harness and various relays. AFM hoses. A few AFMs. Some ECUs. Exhaust pipes, etc. Some R200s. Looking to reduce my hoard. If anyone has an obscure need, let me know and I'll try to figure out how to get it to you, for some small number, mostly to cover shipping and effort. I live in the Portland OR metro area, for the big stuff.

I have a vague memory of somebody describing a "puller" they devised using a long length of pipe, longer than the shaft. You stick the shaft down the pipe then drop the whole assembly on to a concrete floor, pipe end first. The inertia of the shaft pulls it free.

One advantage to rear discs might be that they'll be more consistent in pedal feel. I've noticed that I can tell when the adjuster in the back has moved to the next notch, with my drum brakes. But it's a lot of work for a small benefit. There's a whole range of pads out there to get more stop from the fronts. Not a lot of choice in the back though. That would be one more benefit. So, if you really want to put the effort in you could make a system that is more consistent and has more media choice. But, really, they're pretty good brakes. The front rotors are huge for the size of the car. I bought a pair at a wrecking yard and the girl at the counter tried to charge me for truck rotors.

Is there a letter stamped in to the back? Nissan ID'ed the cam profiles with a letter. Turbo profiles are generally different from NA, but the early turbo engines were pretty primitive. Nissan may not have used a unique cam profile. If you have the link to the eBay page we can inspect the pictures. It would be a straight swap, and would work even if the profile is different.

You have some nice parts. Not really clear what you're adjusting though. "Increased the levels" could mean almost anything. Air-fuel ratio is the amount of air over the amount of fuel. So 15 is leaner than 10. More air, less fuel for 15 than 10. Assuming that the parts are worth saving, you might consider getting some help. Even the stock turbo engines are prone to detonation. An L6 built for performance could probably blow itself up much much easier. You don't know what you have. It might not even be built for pump gas. If it was my money and time, I'd figure out as much as I could about what I had. Measure cylinder pressure, it is a clue about compression ratio. Look for ID marks on the camshaft. Figure out what type of turbo you're using. People blow up the Nissan L6 turbo engines on a regular basis.

It was still hanging from the plug wire? How did you not see it?