Zed Head

You might just take a short try at getting the pin to move to see if it's actually stuck. Sometimes they slide right out. You could remove the locking pin and the end nuts then tap on the pin to see if it's jammed. Without removing tires, brakes, suspension, or anything else. Whether it moves or not, it also gives a chance to squirt some rust breaker in to the lock pin hole. My pins were stuck due to deformation of the locking pin hole, not rust. I used a rat tail file to knock the high spots down so the replacement pins would slide in easily.

Just a nomenclature note, and a maybe/guess on what Nissan was doing with the plastic. Thermoplastics don't set, they just solidify from the melt, and can be remelted. Thermosets are the ones that cure and can't be remelted. So if the material melted and flowed it would be a thermoplastic, not a two part thermoset. It might be that Nissan put a ring of thermoplastic in that groove then pressed the parts together. Maybe as a sealant and/or alignment aid, prior to locking it all together with the holes and pins. Some subsequent heat treatment process might have allowed the plastic to flow. Maybe just the paint drying/curing oven.

Are you sure it's actually bent? They look bent from the shape of the casting but the holes are what matter. You have to eyeball down the hole and/or use a straight edge to be sure. And did you bend the inner yoke or the outer flange yoke? Shipping on the half-shaft itself would be expensive. Heavy.

You're very close at this point, and your problems are actually pretty simple. Carb's won't be much easier. You'll probably still have an electric fuel pump, with the same basic problems you have now. Then you'll have to learn SU's. Notice that RossiZ made his EFI system work, before he switched to carb's. Not because he couldn't make the EFI work.

Just went and checked a rail in the garage. The top line looks right as the inlet. Your pressure is too high for some reason. Looks like you have two problems - no injection and high fuel pressure. Very close. You can use carb cleaner also as a starter fluid. Try Patcon's suggestion, just for inspiration.

Are you sure that's what you're hearing? Your fuel pressure is way too high. Kind of looks like you have your inlet and outlet lines to the fuel rail backward, and the inlet is pumping in to the return end of the FPR. Your stock pump has an internal relief valve that lets go at 43 to ~60 psi. If you pump in to the wrong end of the FPR you'll max out your fuel pump pressure. The line from the pump should feed directly in to the rail. The FPR is like a pressure relief valve. It lets fuel by to return to the tank after set pressure is reached. Can't remember if the top line or bottom line is the inlet. Looks like you're using the top as the inlet. To the FSM....

You could run a power wire back to the pump if you just want to pump fuel and hear the engine run. If you want to fix the pump power problem you'll probably need a meter or test light and the instructions from the Engine Fuel chapter. Seems like you have fuel and you have a pump, you just need to get power to it. Don't make it too complicated. My car, when I bought it, had an eight foot piece of wire ran back to the pump from a past PO's problem-solving efforts. I didn't watch the movie. It's 74 MB. And it's only audio.

It's not clear if you want the paint to be exactly like it was when the car was made, or if you want it to look like it was when it was made, or if you want a better paint job that will protect the car as long as possible. Are you trying to do an exact restoration or a better restoration? That will determine should. Number of layers doesn't mean much unless you want it to BE exactly like was when it was made. That's where the restoration guys who know the history of the cars will have the best knowledge.

Today's coatings are very different from 1970's coatings. I'm not even sure that they used two component (2K) coatings back then. They used single-stage enamel, maybe even a lacquer. Generally not as durable as a 2K acrylic urethane but that's what you'd use if you want to go with 1970's original. Someone like kats or hs30 or 26th might know. There's a seam sealer used inside. But in the 70's they weren't using much besides a primer and a color coat for paint. Not even a clear coat or sealer or even protected metal back then. Two layers, I think, over raw steel. That's why there's so much rust. @kats @HS30-H @26th-Z

Here's the Bidder info. 10% or 12% http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Bidder/Home Here's the Seller's (consignor's) 8% or 10% http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Media/Home/Reader/easy-steps-to-selling-your-collector-car/ plus fees for both. Here's one - http://cdn.barrett-jackson.com/staging/forms/1450.pdf It's an expensive adventure.

Motorsport Auto, zcarparts and thesztore are all the same place. Down in LA. They have been in the Z car parts business for years and are very dependable. By the way, posting your name and address next to the pictures of your expensive cars doesn't seem the safest. Maybe you have the best security though and aren't worried. http://www.zcarparts.com/contact.html

It's worht some study before choosing. What's this thing? A giant AC compressor? Looks like it's not connected.

Those two things will only power the fuel pump. The ECU won't fire the injectors unless it sees spark,or coil discharge, on Pin 1, the wire from the coil negative terminal. If the coil gets power, then the power shuts off, there could be one spark, from breaking the coil circuit. But the ECU needs to see three sparks before it will open the injectors.

The engine won't spin so there won't be any spark. No spark = no Pin 1 pulse = no injection. Can't answer the last question.......................................................

Loose wheel bearings will make it follow the ruts also. On bushings, you'll need to choose rubber or polyurethane. That's a page or two of good discussion.

I'm guessing that you were pointing out that he said "fuel was flowing pretty good"? Hard to tell when he saw the fuel flowing. Everything could be set up perfectly but if he has one of the big hoses removed, like the PCV hose, it will start and die like he's describing. Might just be a giant vacuum leak.

When I first read your post I got kind of distracted by the 79 reference and overlooked the 1975 part. Even though I copied a 1975 wiring diagram to my reply. Your problem sounds like the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM is opening, due to low air flow through the AFM. It's a common problem. Could just be that it's running poorly and idle speed drops too much, or you have vacuum leaks in the AFM hoses or hoses to the intake manifold. All of the hoses connected to the intake manifold and valve cover need to be connected and leak-free. Even the oil filler cap and dipstick tube. No air leaks in to the engine. It's hard to grasp if you're used to working on carb'ed cars. If you want to try to keep it running so that you can diagnose those problems, try opening up the idle speed screw to draw more air through the AFM. If you want to get a quick check of the AFM fuel pump contact switch, either locate it in the AFM and put a jumper wire on it or have somebody hold the AFM wright open so that the switch stays closed. The switch is tiny but you can actually see a tiny spark when it makes and breaks contact. I think that that is your problem. Here's a link and a picture from it. From 240260280's work. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Download this file and go to pages EF-16 and EF-37. Then read all of the other pages too. You should have seen power while at Start, cranking. Make sure you have the plug wires on correctly. Counterclockwise rotation. People (me) have got it backwards. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/24-1978-280z-factory-service-manual/ Here's a wiring diagram - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

Nice cars. A bit bulbous. Best to call. They're kind of old-school - http://www.zcarparts.com/

I live in the Portland Oregon metro area, surrounded by tech professionals with nostalgic memories, some of their own times and some of their parents. They're all rich. The 280ZX's were both 2+2's. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

The only good Hagar is Montrose Hagar.

You have a sample right there. Stick a hot wire in to it and waft some vapors past your nostrils. That's actually an official plastics ID test from the past. Or you can start with a flame - http://www.boedeker.com/burntest.htm Try it. It's fun!

Actually there's several Z's and ZX's. Use your page search function on this list - http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Docket/Scottsdale-2018/Collector-Cars/93f04d0d-614b-4e1c-b4ca-c87d88b709c4/01-13-2018/01-21-2018#213213 CTRL F

And a 77 - http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1977-DATSUN-280Z-215552

Here's a 73 that sold for $20,900 - http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1973-DATSUN-240Z-213213 Edit - there must have been a glitch because it showed me the price. Now you have to register to see it.