Zed Head

Maybe it's a phone - computer incompatibility but there's only sound on your "vid". Somebody else did the same thing the other day. And that thing you're holding in your hand is the vacuum advance control solenoid, I think. The electrical doesn't matter as much as the open vacuum line. That would be a small vacuum leak. And your valve cover is connected to your crankcase which is connected to the intake manifold via the PCV system. It's a giant vacuum leak.

Does it smell like gasoline? If the coolant temperature sensor is unplugged the ECU will add lots of extra fuel. It might be flooding. "It cranks and if i give it gas it tries to turn on but wont stay on."

I tried to turn my interior light on just a week ago and I put my finger right through it. Dust and shards. It's time was up.

Swap the wires at the G and W terminals on the HEI module. The air gap procedure is shown in the Engine Electrical chapter.

Are you saying that it will stay running if you keep it above 1500 RPM? But won't hold an idle below that? If you set the idle at 1550 it would idle all day? What is voltage at 1500 RPM and above and below? That would be a clue about voltage being a problem. You can watch the ammeter also, if it goes from positive (charging) to negative (draining the battery) when it starts to lose spark, it's a clue. The magnetic pickup coil in the distributor has an air gap that needs to be set correctly, to generate the voltage for the ignition module. The voltage passes through the red and green wires to the module, and oscillates from negative to positive. Also, if you have the red and green wires on the wrong terminals you'll get a rough idle as timing will jump around. Make sure that green goes to G and red goes to W. Sometimes the reman distributors use blue wires. If you're not sure, just swap the wires, and see if it gets better. It won't hurt anything. It changes the shape of the trigger pulse from the distributor.

Could be a gummed up throttle body blade. Nissan rerouted the PCV hoses to combat that.

Did it run when you started the project? Try starting fluid. Make sure that the intake manifold and crankcase are fully sealed. All of the injector o-rings, the oil filler cap, all ports on the manifold must have a hose or be blocked. Even the dip stick tube has to be sealed.

Sound only...

Your picture does not match your part number. I agree though that you only need the parts I suggested.

Necro posto... He hasn't been on the site since 2008. I found that what felt like sticking was actually the bell crank being adjusted, or out of adjustment, so that the starting point was "over center". You had to apply extra force to the pedal to get it over the top then it would gain leverage and get easier, making it feel like it had been stuck. You can lengthen or shorten most of the little arms of the linkage to fix that problem.

They're in the first few pages of the BF- Body chapter. They're a bit different for the later 280Z S30's, compared to 240Z's. What kind of camper will you be using? Wouldn't a tent be sufficient?

Sounds like a bad voltage regulator, or something is connected to the Charge light circuit that should not be. The external regulator controls the Charge light. Charge up the battery, see if the Charge light is on, then unplug the voltage regulator. If the light goes off you probably have a regulator problem. If it stays on you have a short somewhere.

This is how dry it is around here. Barbecuing makes me nervous. https://www.oregonlive.com/clackamascounty/index.ssf/2018/08/oregon_homeowner_trying_to_kil.html

Did you turn the radar off? Did you leave the brown or white wire touching any ground points? Take the ignition switch apart and see if it works correctly without the key. You can work the electrical switch with a screwdriver when it's apart. Charge up the battery then disconnect the things that might be draining your battery. You have too many weird problems to pick just one cause. The engine starts but won't shut off, the battery dies when sitting, the charge light is on when the engine is running. That could be three separate causes for three problems. Start troubleshooting with a fully charged battery.

It just gives you the final ratio of the transmission/differential combination. I use first gear because that's where people notice ratio problems first, taking off from a stop. Passenger cars are usually around 12 because their tires are the same size. A truck would have much higher ratio. Nissan went to a 3.9 when they changed first gear to 3.062, and ended up in the same general spot. They went to a much higher number with the heavier 300ZX. Early 280Z (2975 lbs) - 3.54 x 3.321 = 11.76 Late 280ZX (2824 lbs? [probably 1979]) - 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94 1989 300ZX (~3000 lbs?) 3.321 x 3.9 = 12.95 Got some weights from the internet and they don't really fit. So who knows why they changed the ratios.

Is it the stock Nissan gauge? There is no "CPU" on Nissan stock. Mine says CHG. If the light is on it means that there's a problem with the charging system. "New" doesn't mean good. Check those new parts. You might have a short that is "backfeeding" the ignition system.

Which one? Sounds like a possible voltage regulator or alternator problem, or ignition switch. You need to give more details about the car and any modifications you've made to it. You have some weird stuff going on. And the stock Nissan volt gauge doesn't have a "CPU light" so it's not clear what you're talking about there. Plus, if the car wouldn't turn off how do you know the battery is dead? It's still running, right? Details...

Accelerator pump seems reasonable. I was going to ask also if it was new Holley 390 tuned for the L series or if it was a used 390 from some other vehicle. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80507-1/media/instructions

I have some spare forks if you can't find one.

That's the wrong part. You need #57. Two for each side, about $12 each. Less than $50 total. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/57 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-bushing-link-55541e4100

I think you'd be fine with a 3.7 rear. Yours has a 3.321 1st gear. 3.7 x 3.321 = 12.29. With your cammy engine a little more ratio might make it a nicer drive from a stop. And with a smooth running engine even the four speeds are pretty nice at higher RPM. I got my 5 speed mainly because my engine was running rough and I didn't realize it. High revs seemed to be working the engine. After I got a better engine with better parts I often forget to shift in to 5th. You won't really know until you get it on the road.

Not really enough to go on. Unknown engine, Holley 390, AZC manifold. Is it the stock L24 engine? Is the cam stock? Cam timing, ignition timing, etc. all can affect performance. Get as much technical info together about your parts as you can, and check the settings against the specifications. It might just need a thorough tune-up. Here's a link to some service manuals. Links are on the right - https://www.classiczcars.com/files/ Welcome.

The very easiest way is to look at the exhaust system hangers. The 81-83 ZX transmissions have one, the early 5 speeds have two, one on each side. The early 3.321 1st 5 speeds came with a 3.54 ratio rear. Here's an 83 ZX 5 speed...

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm 3.321 1st... And another project! Whee.

The bearing seat gets gouged when the races get cocked. You can't beat a gouge in to submission. They just get stronger.