Zed Head

there is no such site You might be able to fill in a few details if you posted what you know about your car.

$35,000 for sure, easily. We need to make sure that people who want a 240Z pay as much as possible and strangers who are selling their 240Z's get as much as possible. It's the right thing to do.

It's called an air dam or front spoiler. There are different styles. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+front+spoiler&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiw_6Pb1I_gAhUzLn0KHZ4bAQkQ_AUIDigB&biw=1496&bih=723

Assemble, assembled, assembly. I see now - arse'y Arsemble, arsembled, arsembly. Or is it arseembled and arseembly?

"P" signifies a projected tip plug. The electrodes are further in to the combustion chamber. Might be part of the problem. https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/technical-glossary/

You might check your coolant temperature sensor circuit. There are two bullet connectors in the harness in the vicinity of the AAR. If it gets disconnected the ECU will think you're in the Arctic, or Minnesota today, and add tons of extra fuel.

Seems like devising some sort of torque plate to attach to the head before skimming the bottom sealing surface would be the way to go. Then when it's bolted to the block it's all flat and smooth. You might have to mill pockets on the bottom surface for the bolt heads though so that you can fly cut the bottom in one pass. Pull the top of head up against a flat surface.

The yellow wire only gets power when the key is turned to Start. No power there when the key is on. No offense, but you need to go through the sequence of how things work. It will help your troubleshooting efforts. Sounds like the points might have been closed when the key was on, or the points distributor is wired incorrectly with constant power, and the engine stopped with the points closed. Looks like you overheated the coil. Voltage is not measured across + and - , it's measured from + to ground, and - to ground. You're making progress. Good luck.

Check the little yellow wire to the starter solenoid. It might be loose or disconnected. You're standing right there by the coil with the key on. Might as well take a measurement. Sometimes people take the same measurement multiple times.

Never mind.

When are you going to post a picture or two?

Here's a couple more. Marty Rogan's thought about the ballast resistor fits your problem pretty well. I'm not sure how deep the EFI manual goes in to the ignition system. Check the Engine Electrical chapter in the FSM. 1975 has a ballast resistor, it's the white ceramic things with a bunch of wires connected to it, by the coil. Good luck. Get good measurements and write them down. Download a 240Z FSM if you want to learn how to set your points. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

You might just keep things as simple as possible to get it back to running condition. If you have the factory stock struts you could even just refill them with oil and use them. Get it running, drive it around, see what you want to do with it. Many people end up not so happy with their "mods" and wish they hadn't done them.

Edit - never mind, just having fun. "Or". If you "never" had a problem with "vapor lock", why did you crack your hood open at times? Doesn't follow. Y'all are both confusing vapor lock with percolation.

thats not the best way. get a meter and do the proper tests in order. make a list and write the numbers down dont do pass-fail, real numbers

You're probably thinking of "corrosive". Brake fluid is a good solvent so after it causes the paint to peel off it cleans the metal then absorbs moisture. Rust city.

This is a good one. Checking voltage at the coil with the key on would show that. This story has gone the typical route of 280Z EFI problems. Try the quick fixes, poke here, pull there, but in the end the OP needs to get a volt meter or test light and check the basics. No meter, slow progress.

We need to start a save the Z charity. Get those other lowering springs and some KYB's and the car will look like you want it to look, ride very well, and be ready for any changes if you decide that it's not good enough. The ride will get much firmer and less "rolly" just by lowering alone. You'll be surprised at how well it handles, especially if you drive any of todays plush luxury mobiles.

It runs. So it has spark. Sounds like it's starting on the cold start valve but not getting injection from the injectors. If he holds the key to Start that keeps the cold start valve open. Until the thermotime switch heats up like it's supposed to. At least the CSV system works. Best get to the Downloads area and download the EFI Guide Book and the 1975 FSM. Then get a meter and do some testing. You're close.

That was probably just the fuel pressure regulator hissing. The injectors don't spray constantly, they open then close. Click, click, click. Does the tachometer work? The computer uses the same "signal" to fire the injectors. Points should do the job since the signal comes from the negative post of the coil. But the blue wire has to be connected to Pin 1.

He spilled a bunch on his paint. Wonder if he'll show the result. Actually brake fluid is an organic chemical. It absorbs water but it's not "water-based" like some paints. It will attack paint but it's not abrasive. It is flammable, but probably less so than diesel fluid. So it probably did end up in the catalytic converter. http://winona.safeschoolssds.com/document/repo/7f33da14-e886-469e-bc05-6c8e5bfb424c

That's a good point. Here's dimensions. Looks like they're about 44 mm diameter. Grab a tube and measure the inside diameter or the outside and subtract a little. https://performanceshock.com/KONI_86_series_race.pdf

Kind of sounds like low fuel pressure. Could be that you have a blockage at one of your filters. Get a gauge and see what pressure it has when it dies. You'll get spraying at 5 psi but that's not enough flow to keep the engine running. You need to know the number.

How many people have old opened bottles of brake fluid on the shelf that they don't want to use because they've been opened but don't know what to do with them? I've found a solution.

Is it a kit that somebody is selling? Need details. Can you post the words from craigslist or wherever you found it? The aluminum parts are used to add adjustable spring perches to your struts for height adjustment. The shock bodies would typically be shorter, by the amount that you plan to lower the car. This puts the shock's piston at the middle of its stroke. You could compare shock body lengths to stock lengths to see how much lowering they're intended for. Some people make "slamming" kits to drop the car to the ground. Shock lengths are on Koni's site I believe. If you're going to really do it right you'll want to know spring rates. Too high and the ride will be harsh, maybe bouncy. Plus, ideally, the spring rates are matched to the shock's damping properties. I see 275 on one set, which is higher than stock. If you really want to get in to designing your suspension right you need to consider your tires. Low profile tires ride harsher. You can make up for it with the struts.