Zed Head

A shot of the drain plug magnet would be telling. It should have stuff on it. If it's clean that means somebody removed the signs of condition. I bought a mystery 5 speed for $50 from a shady guy, by the external signs from an 82-83 280ZX. I knew that, worst case, I'd have the front case for a 71C swap and some other odd parts, like the speedo drive and front cover and odd spare pieces. I hooked it up to my spare engine that I had available to run in the garage, filled it with old gear oil I had saved and ran it through the gears on a running engine. It started grinding and crunching right away and the gear oil was aluminum colored when it came out. It was destroyed inside, somebody had obviously got angry with it, probably from a bad slave cylinder on the clutch. Clutch forks, bearings, synchro parts everywhere. I did use the front case on a 300ZX 5 speed that I picked up for $20 from a kid whose mother told him he had to get the 5 speed off the front porch, from his wrecked 300ZX. Win some, lose some. Thank you for the opportunity to tell a random story.

From pogden's link.

Actually it's not. That Advertising site is not intuitive as far as getting to the pictures. For me anyway. I think it's just a 280ZX 71B transmission.

Just remembered that the shifter is completely different on the 71C. Of course, that area is covered in @WayneFC 's picture. 71B 71C

Might be options outside of the normal Nissan channels. @AK260 might know them. https://www.carbuilder.com/us/textile-covered-fuel-hose https://www.carbuilder.com/us/about-us

The shift boot rubber and shifter look like 300ZX. I seem to remember that the front case casting was different on the 71C compared to 71B, if anyone wants to do that. I think the 71C lines were more defined. 300ZX 71C seems possible. Here's the two 71B's from pogden's thread, and the image from this thread link. The pictures in the ad aren't very good. A measurement of the length would tell something. The 71C is longer. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64504-fs5w71b-transmission-identification-close-ratio-vs-wide-ratio-with-pictures/

I really feel for these guys and the incredible pressure they must experience when facing important potentially life-altering decisions. What will Mitch do? Should he follow Ben's example or stay the course? Mask? No masks? It's only a few seconds... I'll just hold my breath... yeah, that's it... We'll know in a few hours. The suspense is palpable.... Programming note: the Senate majority leader, Mitch McConnell, will hold a photo-op with newly elected Republican senators at 4pm ET today. Remember when "brain surgery" meant something difficult that only a smart highly trained person could do? Wearing a face covering at an indoor event, especially at the White House, is not brain surgery. Everything is just upside down. https://www.businessinsider.com/ben-carson-tests-positive-for-covid-19-2020-11 Edit 1:24pm - he compromised, kind of. I really think he's holding his breath though. Not showing teeth, mask in hand. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Carson

"Out of sight, out of mind", they say. Funny how that can be interpreted two ways. One could argue that the earth will be pulled in to the sun in six billion years anyway. Destruction is inevitable, why wait? You can go round and round on these topics. I do understand the weed analogy though. My neighbor's yard was full of dandelions. Lazy bastard.

Hit a hardware store and browse. It's common. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-5-16-in-x-1-4-in-x-17-ft-White-D-Center-EPDM-Medium-Gap-Weatherseal-Tape-V25WA/100017014

That's why I suggested the flexible tube. You'd have to examine the foam to see if it's closed or open cell.

Never mind, too early. Hope they can get it in to production soon, at volume.

Sometimes the end of the cable will not seat in the speedo drive, even though the housing screws all the way down. Best practice seems to be to pull the cable out of the sleeve and seat it firmly in its spot in the drive housing then push the cable back in to the sleeve while screwing down the locking ring. If the car is up in the air it helps to spin the drive/propeller shaft with your hand while tightening down the locking ring, to get the slotted end in its spot in the speedo. You might have to try that a few times until both ends of the cable get seated properly. Not uncommon.

I think it matches your clutch fork. The adjustable ones have a hole in the fork, and an adjustable rod in the slave.

I wanted to have AFR readings at one time and was also thinking cheap. I had pondered buying a voltmeter and painting new numbers/colors on the dial based on wideband sensor output tables, then connecting it to a wideband sensor. Red, yellow and green zones was my thought. Accuracy not really necessary. If you focus on data acquisition of voltage instead of already processed AFR readings, it might open up some possibilities. Collect, run it through a spreadsheet, and you have what you want. Example stuff from the interweb: http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wblambda.htm https://www.dataq.com/

Air flowing over a surface will pull through a hole, out of the car. Air sitting near a stagnant surface, like the back of a moving car, will be pulled through holes in to the car to replace the air that got pulled out. The main leak in to the cabin seems to be the vinyl covered panel on the inside of the hatch lid. Exhaust fumes sit in the dead spot right behind the car and get pulled in to the hatch innards via the latch hole, then get pulled in to the cabin around the edges of the panel. The latch hole can't be sealed but you can seal the edges of the inside vinyl panel using stick-on weatherstripping. You have to get a good tight seal completely around the edge. Any gap will allow the fumes to get in to the car after they enter the inside of the hatch lid. You can also find the flexible tube type that might be more durable, but here's some examples of the foam type. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Weather-Stripping-Foam-Tapes/N-5yc1vZc3e3

This last post sounds like the "far left Progressive" view that you were deriding in your first post. But that's okay, that's what discussions are for. This year's election isn't even really about left or right. It's about fatalism versus hope. Climate can be controlled. If you ever spent time in the LA basin in the 80's you know what happens if you just let people run riot. Tried to find a picture and instead I found that it's been a problem for far longer and they've been working on it for way before my time on the planet started. California is a good model for what could be. But it's full of those "far left Progressives". https://www.aqmd.gov/home/research/publications/50-years-of-progress https://www.insider.com/vintage-photos-los-angeles-smog-pollution-epa-2020-1

Interesting. @brunodoggy ?

"Will I be able to drive my car" seems kind of like a small concern, considering all. Read around the internet about tetraethyl lead. There are still people out there that think that lead poisoning is not a big deal and "big government " is ruining the joy of 12:1 compression and big cams. https://www.aoghs.org/products/tetraethyl-lead-gasoline/

Not The Rapist, he's leaving. A rapist. I was like "who are these guys and what are they doing now?"...Google ...tap tap tap ...Wikipedia...read read read...crap...Google....read more...seems to be a date raper...can't be associated...edit.

Check the engine's grounding. Maybe it's poor so the gap across the spark plug electrodes is not the path of least resistance. Actually, check the resistance of the head to ground, the battery negative post or the alternator case, or both, since the head is what the spark plugs ground to. Just looking for odd reasons that lifting the cap has an affect. But, a new clean cap is probably the best first step. The turbo distributor uses the two screws to lock down so you can't really get it mixed up with NA. The local parts stores sell the same parts as Rockauto. Just a little bit more expensive. Get new wires also. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/ignition---tune-up-16776/distributor-cap---rotor-16854/distributor-cap-12506/a0b4d83dd803/1982/nissan/280zx?q=distributor+cap

I've never heard of the "running compression" test. I'm not sure that's a valid test of anything. The throttle valve will be closed and the intake manifold under vacuum. Edit - The Google says it's a thing. Haven't dug in to it but I think you still need to compare cylinders, not just do one cylinder. Your "normal method" test results look good. I don't really see a problem being described. Even cylinder pressures, runs well, gets in to boost, etc. What is wrong?

You said that you got about 130 psi in your other post. So, we can't really tell what's going on. A list of all six pressures would be good.

That's a $250,000 car. Funny, but Pierre Z worked on it prior to the auction. He worked on the 31k mile Z. Did you put those wheels on it?

Looks fine. They got a little too specific I think on continuity and open circuit. A problem there would be more noticeable while driving anyway. Never hurts to take a step back and see what you've learned since you decided that there was a problem. The lifted distributor cap is still a very odd thing.