Zed Head

Looks like originality has value. The silver 72 might have been over-modded, maybe. $21,500. But reserve was met. Seems in better shape than the orange one, easily. Maybe the louvers and the silver paint dropped the price by about $5000. Warning for any future sellers. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-151/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-12-03

Beverly Hills doesn't have the cachet that it used to. The car is race ready though, excess weight stripped, and with the special racing left only alignment on the rear wheel.. And it has the desirable non-EGR intake manifold. And a DieHard battery. p.s. They have other Z's in their showroom.

Surface rust? I was thinking the same but if you look most of it is really not too deep. I didn't see any holes. Kind of looks like somebody drove it over some salty snow then parked it in a dry garage.

Also found this when I was on the Google looking for it. Looks like a Porsche part. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uro-94461011500?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WGn2JbMHtgZeIxJ2mDW_1SMobTVCpFkRXxAYkDysbUBzwn9rJhaY_0aAlEtEALw_wcB

Some BMW's, before intake pumps became the thing,, have the fuel pump mounted in a rubber container. The rubber container/bottle thing is the part that get bolted to the car. I'll post a picture if I find one. 80's cars seems like the range, if I remember. The container is about the size of an aftermarket Airtex EFI pump.

Just for fun, the zhome registry page. http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm

Not kidding. If I'd won imagine where I might be now...

Should have used the LED model.

I saw a Wheeler Dealer episode where they had similar done at a California company. I think it was a BMW M3. I'll post it if I find it. Actually it was a Porsche 996. It was at this place. http://exclusiveoption.com/

Which?

The bright orange 72 went for $26,750. Mid-20's to mid-30's seems to be the range for the "average" nice, clean, refurbished post-71 240Z. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-141/

Here's a good one. Before I signed in this morning. Somebody really wants this ad to be noticed. And as I was writing this it showed up in the little box at the bottom. The GoogleSense is trying to tell me that I'm about to need car transport...

Zener. 3rd grade spelling bee runner up! Nerd alert!

Check his avatar. I don't think he's worried abut his back.

Red Zed 78. Shiny. I think it might be the one that 246 mentioned in a past post. Nova Scotia. 86 paint thickness measurements! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-80/

Those dings might be rubbing on the washer that sits under the nut. So a little grinding/scraping like Racer X says to do should get it back to shape. Pretty common to have dings and scratches in there (for me anyway). The hub is supported completely on the races inner surfaces and the bearings. The rest of the metal in the vicinity shouldn't contact anything. If the bearing race seats are good and the races are fully inserted in the seats then the hub itself should be fine. There are two notches underneath the bearing race that are meant for punching out the old races. Best to use brass or aluminum though to avoid gouges. Make sure the races are seated all the way, no gap underneath. Not clear why you even took them out, you can just leave them in there for rotor turning, cleaning, whatever.

Tut, tut, it's a difficult job. But you will be a mechanic when you're done.

Nobody wants to know what a "tut" is? I do.

They do it for drifting. It's just a cheap hack, just need a welder and some welding material. I wonder if anyone has tried JB Weld. That would be a great JB Weld ad.

Pop out the axles and check the quality of the surface that rides inside the bearing. They're hard to get out, take some tools to pry with. 39/10 is what you're looking for on the ring gear stamp.

I think that he already knows about the ratios and is planning to buy a 3.9 to match the 3.062 1st gear in the 5 speed. Trying to figure out how to evaluate the quality of the 3.9 diff. Here are some images of welded diffs. Some people just do a few solid welds, some people go crazy and fill every crevice. Here's a funny article about the "benefits" of welded diffs. Those open diffs are unpredictable!

How not is not? You're probably going to break some bolts and/or studs, on the exhaust manifold, maybe even a head bolt if the head's never been off. Injector hold-down screws break also. How many miles on the engine? How do you know you need a new head gasket? What is leaking? It's a job.

The 81 ZX Turbo sold for $32,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-turbo-6/

I found a reference to a 76 fuel tank that describes a fine mesh screen around the base of the canister that the pickup and return line are in. I thought that the 240Z inlet lines had a metal "sock" on the end of the line. Basically like a metal fishnet. Can't find any cut open 240Z pictures though. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96315-por-15-fuel-tank-repair-question/?do=findComment&comment=910896

You can use the AC Volts (Hz) measurement function on your meter if it has it to count coil discharges. Not typical alternating current but the meter doesn't know that. I'd guess that's what the automotive meters do, but with internal software to do the math and convert to RPM.