Zed Head

It doesn't really matter which terminal has the condenser attached. It's there to stop electrical noise.

Just leave the condenser disconnected. You don't need it for now. You can also just connect both of the wires from the ballast resistor (the block) to the coil positive. You don't need it when you use the HEI module.

I would add some details of how, exactly, you are evaluating "spark". With a spark plug at the end of a plug wire, through the coil center terminal, with a spark tester...? Are you cranking the engine when you do this? Have you disconnected the original module by the fuse box or did you resintall it? And, or, but, I have noticed that you do not have any battery power going to the coil in your picture. You only have the coil connected to the module and no pwer to the module either. You need power to the coil positive terminal. Also, use your meter and make sure that the mounting screw of the module has a good ground. And make sure that it's the correct screw. Only one of the screws completes the ground through the module, it has a thicker ferrule. Looks like you have the correct screw but you might not have good contact through that screw head or where it seats on the TB. The TB is not the best place to mount it. That's where all of the coil current flows when the module is doing its thing. And, it you plan to run it for long you need a proper heat sink under the flat part of the module. It gets hot and heat will cause them to fail.

Here's a good one. Couldn't wait for Saturday. https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ?si=grkFLcz2wcNdPoJP

The VR Z did not reach its reserve. Didn't get to its last sale price either. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/

Thanks for replying. From out here, the post reader, the sigh sure does look like a comment. Just couldn't tell what the comment was about.

The original struts used special oil. Aftermarket strut insert replacements don't need any oil. Not sure what you're working on. p.s. if you click Signature, put stuff in the box, and save it, it will show up at the bottom of your posts. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

I suppose it depends on what the worry would be. Worry about them failing? Spring sag with age is not uncommon. Did you notice any variance in corner height when they were installed? The thing about aftermarket springs is you don't really know how they'll sit until you get them installed. You can find reports of weirdness with the Eibach progressive rate springs. Don't know if that problem ever got solved. It's a conundrum.

Seems to be normal and as Nissan intended. Maybe to offset an imbalance in the car's weight, maybe from the engine tilt. Not clear, although it might be described somewhere. I don't think that the aftermarket considered it.

It's just snark if you don't follow it with something useful. Are you sighing the pan question or the build details?

I have a vague memory that the ZX pan works in a Z. But, since you have both why not measure to be sure? How much "building" will you be doing on the turbo engine? You know that it has a lower CR than an NA engine, right?

So close. I almost went for it. You even left an ellipsis to draw people in. Well done, again. You are a master at baiting people... p.s. proper grammar would use the word "directly", I believe, not direct.

That's 24 degrees of rotation of the transmission, putting the shifter in the driver's lap. Can't remember which way the VG30 engine is rotated. It uses a different transmission. I wonder if it's a better option. Maybe it's been considered. Derek is mentioned in one of the articles. I assume that his engine is not rotated? Seems like poor timing on Nissan's part, waiting so long to introduce their head, when there were already two out there. Besides the fact that block supply is diminishing. Slim market. OS Giken Releases L Series Head - The Gentleman RacerOS Giken was born in the early 1960s; Osamu Okazaki wanted to build a true high-performance Japanese race car to compete against the sports cars from Europe dominating the sport at the time. Like many

I had their greatest hits album when I was a kid. In retro my parents were probably concerned.

If it was mine I'd watch the play at the adjusting nut on the rod. Press the fork against the pressure plate fingers using one hand and run the nut in until you have contact with the fork with the other one. That would be zero play. Then back it off 1.5 turns. Easier to do the adjustment without the spring attached, since you'll be able to feel when you're on the pressure plate fingers. I've never done one but I think I understand what they're trying to accomplish. 2 mm of play between bearing and pressure plate when the slave clyinder is at the start of its stroke. Don't forget to check the pedal adjustment at the MC also. I've adjusted play there in the same way. Just max out the adjustment rod, being careful not to press the piston in to the MC bore, then back it off a bit. Another feel by finger job. And you don't need to remove the clevis you can turn the rod with a pair of pliers or a strong grip while everything is assembled.