Zed Head

It got a nice price when it had the L6. $46,200. Not sure that 454 is going to add value. I'd guess most of the aftermarket parts went on after that sale. No driving video yet. 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN HLS3042112 | Hagerty Valuation ToolsHave you seen this 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN HLS3042112 auction result?

I was describing its function, not the actual material wire. The trigger wire for the new tach is its own independent circuit. I was also trying to tease out if you're replacing the stock tach or adding another tach. Are you sticking the new tach in the hole where the old one is? Your other basic question might be "how do I keep my ignition system functioning if I remove my factory tach?". Since they are tied together in the 240Z's. Just breaking the "how do I connect my new tach?" question in to its elements. Seems like you're on top of it. Good luck.

Everything you need is here on CZCC.com The relay you show is not just the fuel pump relay it's a combined fuel pump and EFI relay. The relay that EuroDat showed is the proper replacement. It was used from 1975 through 1977. In 1978 Nissan separated the two relays. Nissan calls the EFI relay the main relay. They don't usually rust like yours because of their location. I'm still impressed by the challenge that you're taking on. Remember to check for shorts to ground before connecting the battery after you fix things. Those original pictures look like a wire fire waiting to happen.

It's a voltage triggered tachometer. Like those in the 280Z's. The yellow wire can, and should be, completely separate from any of your existing wiring. To run the Speedhut tach. Seems like your real question might be "what do I do with the wires from the old tachometer" to keep things working correctly. If you're replacing the stock tach. If you're keeping the stock tach, you could just leave it untouched, and wire in the new tach using the instructions. It won't affect the ignition system, since it just senses the voltage changes at the coil negative terminal. Just offering a reinterpretation of the original question. https://speedhut.com/content/instructions/2_and_2_58_tach.pdf

Here's an interesting one. A Pierre’s Z Service Center creation, apparently. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/?

Without this the diode and alternator problems won't matter. No voltage, no charging. This can be checked with the alternator removed. Also, might as well check both pins. The top one should have battery voltage also.

A song with a woodworking reference. Just realized. And one about fruit with fungus in the name. What you eat you are...

Here's an old thread about a similar problem. (Edit - man, I wrote a lot of stuff back then.)

Good opportunity to learn how to use a multimeter. Check voltage at idle and while raising RPM. Some of the conversion plugs from MSA have been known to melt and fail. You can get a cheap meter for cheap at a place like Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-Function-Digital-Multimeter-59434.html

Sounds like you don't agree 100%. We're just offering possibilities. It's actually more interesting to some of us that the fitting was 3/4 turn loose and did not leak sooner. If it was mine I'd pull that line and make sure I didn't need more parts before starting the MC replacement. Might find out that you don't need a new MC, you actually need a new hard line.

The rear reservoir would be for the front brakes. Unless you mean the reservoir for the rear brakes when you say rear reservoir. Neither reservoir should be pressurized. The pressure should only be created by the pistons in the MC bore. If you had moisture in the brake fluid it wouldn't be a surprise to have corrosion in the bore after 6 years. Then when you pushed the pedal to the floor you might have damaged the rubber seal inside. So, loose fitting allows reservoir ro leak dry, pedal goes to floor because of it, damaging MC seals, new MC leak looks like old fitting leak. Should have got that fitting tight the first time. Seems like it was very loose. Oh well.

It's also possible that the metal to metal seal of the brake line was damaged when you changed the MC the first time. Pretty common for the tube to twist with the fitting when the fitting is loosened. The only way to be sure is to examine the parts. A magnifying glass and bright lights help. Take a close look and you'll see where the actual sealing surface is. A spec of foreign matter can screw things up. Something to be aware of if you do change the MC. The threads don't do the sealing, they just do the clamping. You can see the cone that fits inside the end of the tube in this image from Rockauto. That's the sealing surface.

It's more likely that your MC seals have blown.

Maybe it was never properly tightened. As soon as you started using the brakes you started pushing fluid out. When it was sitting for years there was no pressure. Regardless, it's leaking now (maybe). Are you sure that the fluid is not running down the bottom of the MC from a leak inside the bore? Might depend on how the car sits if the bore tilts forward or backward.

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