Zed Head

I suppose it depends on what the worry would be. Worry about them failing? Spring sag with age is not uncommon. Did you notice any variance in corner height when they were installed? The thing about aftermarket springs is you don't really know how they'll sit until you get them installed. You can find reports of weirdness with the Eibach progressive rate springs. Don't know if that problem ever got solved. It's a conundrum.

Seems to be normal and as Nissan intended. Maybe to offset an imbalance in the car's weight, maybe from the engine tilt. Not clear, although it might be described somewhere. I don't think that the aftermarket considered it.

It's just snark if you don't follow it with something useful. Are you sighing the pan question or the build details?

I have a vague memory that the ZX pan works in a Z. But, since you have both why not measure to be sure? How much "building" will you be doing on the turbo engine? You know that it has a lower CR than an NA engine, right?

So close. I almost went for it. You even left an ellipsis to draw people in. Well done, again. You are a master at baiting people... p.s. proper grammar would use the word "directly", I believe, not direct.

That's 24 degrees of rotation of the transmission, putting the shifter in the driver's lap. Can't remember which way the VG30 engine is rotated. It uses a different transmission. I wonder if it's a better option. Maybe it's been considered. Derek is mentioned in one of the articles. I assume that his engine is not rotated? Seems like poor timing on Nissan's part, waiting so long to introduce their head, when there were already two out there. Besides the fact that block supply is diminishing. Slim market. OS Giken Releases L Series Head - The Gentleman RacerOS Giken was born in the early 1960s; Osamu Okazaki wanted to build a true high-performance Japanese race car to compete against the sports cars from Europe dominating the sport at the time. Like many

I had their greatest hits album when I was a kid. In retro my parents were probably concerned.

If it was mine I'd watch the play at the adjusting nut on the rod. Press the fork against the pressure plate fingers using one hand and run the nut in until you have contact with the fork with the other one. That would be zero play. Then back it off 1.5 turns. Easier to do the adjustment without the spring attached, since you'll be able to feel when you're on the pressure plate fingers. I've never done one but I think I understand what they're trying to accomplish. 2 mm of play between bearing and pressure plate when the slave clyinder is at the start of its stroke. Don't forget to check the pedal adjustment at the MC also. I've adjusted play there in the same way. Just max out the adjustment rod, being careful not to press the piston in to the MC bore, then back it off a bit. Another feel by finger job. And you don't need to remove the clevis you can turn the rod with a pair of pliers or a strong grip while everything is assembled.

Did you follow the instructions? Don't know why they show the measurement since most people will just tighten until play is gone and loosen 1.5 turns. Nobody's going to stick a feeler gauge in that hole. Don't forget to bleed.

$36,000

dzcg might be having seller's regret. 🤢 Everyone knows about ad blockers. They work. Good luck.

@Derek makes something similar. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/?do=findComment&comment=1249401

This was a clue that it was an electrical problem. If the engine was still spinning because it was in gear then spark will still move the tachometer needle.

Another VRP car. Already sold once for $101,240. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-93/

Should have put it on BaT so we could pick it apart!