tlorber

Happiness is NOT having what you want...its wanting what you HAVE.

I just got back from a fishing trip in Canada. One of the guides on the trip has his main job working for Canada's version of our Food and Drug Administration. Anyway, he told me that one of the drug companies up there just invented a new antidepressant for lesbians. It's called tricoxagen.

I actually heard that Jagger saw. Hugh Heffner having relations with Dennis Weaver (perhaps bored with all the bunnies at home). Hence the lyrics "Hey Hugh, get off of Mc Cloud".

Stephen, you might want to consider shortening your shift lever. I took mine to a machine shop and they lopped off about 1 1/4" and then rethreaded. It creates a shorter throw but does not require undue effort (though your tranny may be stiff until it breaks in). Now when I drive a stock shifter it feels a bit like shifting a school bus.

Interesting technique. You definitely want to be in 5th and not reverse when doing this-unless you don't like your "friend". When you pull the tranny, you should go to the 311s.org site. Those roadster 5 speeds are tough to find and people pay good $ for them.

Stephen, I had the same issue on my steering rack boots as well. They were probably only 4-5 months old when I noticed it. MSA wasn't overly sympathetic.

I agree with the horseman. I just went through something similar. When things DID work properly, it may have been because your running lights were temporarily grounding to the body. I made a pigtail (basically a "y") that grounded the taillight to the body on the rear left side (there are two captured nuts on the inner panel that you can screw to) and let the black wire continue on where it originally went. That way you do not have to cut the harness anywhere. As long as your inner plastic panels are still out, the is a very simple and quick procedure, so if it doesn't work, you haven't lost much. Oh and I concur with the avatar-now more than ever.

Glen, when you do a repair, don't just assume that it is adequate to take the car around the block. I mean, to really ensure it is safe, YOU should be driving the car for a couple weeks-after each repair-you know, just to make sure your wife will be safe.

First off, alignment and wheel shimmy are two different things. Try switching rear wheels to the front-perhaps they are better balanced. If not, try some other wheels, just to see if they solve the problem. At least that way you are isolating one variable at a time.

This was linked to the MSA site. Sorry if it is a repeat but it is very cool. It is rather unusual to see a Z as the heavy horsepower car on the track.

On my car, which is a '73, there is a manual switch, so I have to hold it up until I want the antenna to stop, and then hold it down until I wan the antenna to stop. I'm not positive that was the stock configuration, but I believe it was. I have seen writeups here creating logic circuits that handle this automatically, but it is way more work than I have the time or inclination to deal with at this time.

I agree, Happy 4th. However, after last week's ruling, I can't help but feel that things are not quite where they used to be.

Tell me that doesn't remind you of an old Gumby cartoon! That guy must be an animator.

Tranny is worth around $200 (if manual), Motor maybe $150 to someone. Beyond that you'll have to wait for the right person to come along that happens to need the specific part. I guess it depends if you have the space, time and money.

You're right about it getting out of hand. Do you polish all the brackets and brake lines etc? Personally, I'd try to clean the existing paint with compound, and the few areas that don't clean up can be touched up. I'd be more concerned with getting the car back on the road and getting it dialed in the way you want it to run (and stop-you KNOW this project will lead to a brake up grade, if not already done). What size tires are you running? Those pics make them look quite narrow, especially given the additional torque that you plan on putting down.

Ok, here's my last input on it- I swear. The last sheared bolt I took out I ground the top smooth, used a punch, and made a divot as close to the center as I could (this step is VERY important). I then took a 1/16" bit and drilled. I went in small increments with progressively larger bits until I got near the meat of the nut I was trying to clean out. I then ran a tap into the nut (block in your case). The tap took out the remaining shards of the bolt and I was able to get a new bolt in. If you do not center the punch/first drill bit properly, you run the risk of drilling into the block which you do not want to do. When you run a tap, you need to use a lubricant and keep going forward and backward to allow the removed material to drop out and not bind.

Great video and sound. I'm assuming it must be hi def? However, I noticed that the steering wheel is on the wrong side.

Congrats, and sorry about your dad. It funny you mention about the motor starting. One of my favorite movies is The Flight of the Phoenix (the Jimmy Stewart version). I always tear up when he gets the engine to run.

Same question as original poster (hope he has his apart by now). This is for a spare motor that I have, and I'd like to get the torque converter off. If anyone has ever done it please let me know. By the way, if anyone wants an automatic tranny you are welcome to it. If not, it will become a take-apart project for my kid so please let me know.

So, after all the investment and input here, can you elaborate on how the shop got the bolt out?

I thought I'd post this for those of you in the LA area. The Eagle Rock Swap Meet is mostly 510 and Z people and the next one is apparently July 15. This particular posting is from a guy that I bought a fender and headlight bucket from last year. He drives down from the bay area and was a straight shooter. If you contact him for parts that are not on the list, he will bring them down to the meet for you. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/3101654265.html

How are you going about heating it? I would try map gas (since it gets hotter than propane) near the threaded portion while putting constant torque on the bolt. As stated, give multiple raps to the top of the bolt while turning it.

As stated above, it is very easy. However, when you buy one, (I got one from the dealer for around $30-$40) make sure you give them the correct year for your DISTRIBUTOR, in the event that it differs from the year of your car. You should bring in your current one to be sure. These all look very similar, but there are slight differences.

Might want to give more than 40 minutes to respond. I think above all it depends upon whether you are looking more for a vintage Z or for a performance car. You need to know if there is much rust on the body-if Little to none, paint will run around $3k. I would bet he has more than $12k into the car, but that does not necessarily mean much, depending upon the condition of the car. I can promise you that you will get request for pics before receiving credible input.

Good topic gents. I have a clunk which I know is not coming from the diff, and I suspect it is from within the shock housing. I'll have to check whether I have threads showing or not. Just to clarify here though, it seems as if the gland nut should screw all the way down with no shock in place, but have a couple threads showing when the shock IS in in place. Is that correct? Do you happen to know the inner and outer diameters of the washers? Thx.